Redoing ceiling in basement studio. Need help

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DeepGroove

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Hi all. This is my first post, though I've been reading thru the threads for a while now.
I have a 2 room studio in the basement of my house that I built 4 years ago, not really knowing what I was doing. Regrets are a'plenty. But I can't redo it from scratch, so I'm just trying to improve on the what I've got.
So... here it is:
Live room is approx. 15 1/2'x 16x 7 1/2(ceiling). Control room is 10'x9'x7 1/2, with the window into the live room on the 10' wall.

The LIVE room is my focus. I'd like to do the best I can to soundproof the ceiling and walls to lessen the sound transmission to upstairs. Also, the AC/Heater unit is directly on the other side of one wall, and the ducts pass thru the room. I get some noise from that.
CEILING: I've been reading and it sounds like the best bet would be 703 in the joists, and then covering with 1 or 2 layers of drywall. But what is the best spot for the 703 to sit (i.e. how high up? pressed against upstairs floor?) And if I use 2 sheets of drywall, what, if anything, should go between each sheet?

The walls are all 2x4 studs with 1 sheet of drywall on either side, stuffed with fluffy yellow insulation. The doors are hollow, single panel (in other words, flimsy).There are 4 doors (i know, big NO NO One of these doors is on the wall b/w the live room and the AC/Heater unit. Another one which goes up the stairwell, where a lot of noise flows upstairs. I need to proof the doors as best I can. I'm thinking either composite, or drywall? Or replacing with a Solid Core door? And of course weather sealing the gaps.
And should I add another sheet of drywall to the side of the wall where the AC unit is?
The ducts aren't really accessible, as I boxed them in with paneling. Is there a way to box them in more, atop the paneling?
I know some you are laughing by now....

So I think that's enough info, but I can provide more if necessary. Any advice would be SO APPRECIATED. :)
 
Well I designed my own ceiling that actually is proving now to work really well. It's literally taking years to put it up because I only work about one day a week on it, but now I've got over half my live room ceiling done and my wife says there's a SIGNIFICANT different upstairs when I play the drums.

I can give you more details on the design if you're interested. The design consists of making 4X4 squares of ceiling tiles out of two layers of 1/2" OSB and then a layer of 1/2" drywall on the bottom. Seal the seams with weather strip. Bolt them up with pretty hefty bolts. You can take each peice down if you need to at any time in the future, which is nice. And it's so thick and heavy that it does an awesome job of stopping the sound. Oh yeah, and 6" insulation above the tiles.

It's a fairly elaborate design, and it's more involved than what I just described. There's a whole grid of 2X4's you have to put up in the ceiling to bolt the ceiling tiles into. like I said, I can give you more details on it if you'd like.
 
To fill the ceiling with insulation, you can just use normal fiberglass compressed some or you can use Rockwool for a bit of an improvement. IMO, the 703 is not needed for the cost. In this application, the Rockwool will do just as well. In either case fill the cavity full.

As for the ceiling itself, the best way to isolate it is to drop some hat channel with RSIC clips and attach double drywall to that. If you don't want that expense, multiple layers of plain old drywall are about as effective (both sonically and economically) as you can get. Mass is mass and that's what you need to stop bass. The double layer will stop a lot and what does get through will be absorbed to a great deal by the insulation. Works will for sound from the other direction too.
 
Thanks guys

Sonic. Thank you for the ideas. I think that may be a little out of reach for me right now, but sounds like it's working well for you!

Bpape, I like the idea. What are hat channel and RSIC clips?
Is that Resilient Channel?
Is all RC the same? b/c I found a local place that has 1/2" RC, but I'm not sure if it's the right stuff....
And are you saying that i'd be just as well off with attaching multiple layers of drywall directly to the joists?
Faced or Unfaced Fiberglass?

Thanks again so much!
 
Unfaced fiberglass is fine in the cavity.

RSIC and hat channel is NOT the same thing as Resiliant Channel (RC). RC does a good job of isolation but is VERY unpredicatable as to what it will do INSIDE the room.

RSIC and hat channel is also a good isolator but is much more predictable and much sturdier. I'd have no issues haning double drywall on hat channel supported by RSIC. Check out PAC International. Look at the RSIC-1 clips - that's what you'd need. Plan on about $5 each for the clips - get the channel locally at HD or Lowes - shipping will kill you.

Double drywall directly on the joists will not be as effective. It will do a decent job with a filled cavity but not in the same league as RSIC and hat channel THEN double drywall.

If you must go directly to the studs, I'd check out Audio Alloy Green Glue for between the layers or at a minimum if you're serious about isolation, think about 3 layers of drywall.
 
bpape. that's great to know. however, given that the height is only 7 1/2 ft, i think the RSIC -1 system would maybe lose me too many inches. However...
currently, there are wooden crossbeams (5/8" thick) spread horizontally across the joists, roughly every 12" O.C. I realize that this won't be as effective as the RSIC/hat channel setup, but would it or would it not give me SOME improvement, over attaching drywall directly to the joists? it will give me 5/8" of airspace, correct?
thanks again.
 
DeepGroove said:
bpape. that's great to know. however, given that the height is only 7 1/2 ft, i think the RSIC -1 system would maybe lose me too many inches. However...
currently, there are wooden crossbeams (5/8" thick) spread horizontally across the joists, roughly every 12" O.C. I realize that this won't be as effective as the RSIC/hat channel setup, but would it or would it not give me SOME improvement, over attaching drywall directly to the joists? it will give me 5/8" of airspace, correct?
thanks again.
Click to expand...

Deep,

Nope - it's not going to help - it is the equivilent of using RC and then shorting out the channel by screwing into the studs.

One thing that could help (in addition to the RC) would be to install some additional layers of drywall directly up against the deck above - caulking the edges.

This additional mass will help to increase isolation - but it's important that you verify that your deck assembly can carry the added weight.

Rod
 
Agreed. If you're going to do RC, just make sure it's decent stuff - there is a lot of garbage thin gage stuff out there that won't support the weight of 2 layers of drywall hanging on it. The reason I caution against it is that it's almost impossible to predict what it will do where in terms of absorbtion for planning purposes. You'll just have to measure afterward and see what you need.

The drywall up on the deck above is also a good idea if it's thick enough to attach it and hold it properly.

Sounds to me like multiple layers of drywall is the best answer for you with the potential addition of Green Glue if it's in your budget.

Bryan
 
Bpape. I think you're right. I look into the GG and I can swing that. Do you have to order direct from Audio Alloy, or is there a cheaper place?

ALSO, I just remembered that I'll have a water pipe to deal with, just a copper 1" pipe . It goes directly across the ceiling. It has been noisy in the past, but I just make sure no water is running while we're tracking. But, how could I box it in, and isolate the sound?

Thanks again. This is all VERY helpful!
 
Hmmm. Water pipe. Another place to drop a ceiling with clips... Oh well. Low ceilings are a drag.

Anyway, you can box around as normal but I'd maybe put some pipe wrap around it before I closed it up. I think AA has something for that too.

I believe other people sell the GG but not any cheaper. If you go directly to AA, the guys are good to work with and can help you out. It's certainly not a cheap product but seems to work very well. You can also try the stud gasket http://www.integritygasket.com/ I've not personally used it but others have said it works well for additional mid/hf isolation and does not compromise the function of the GG between layers.
 
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