Recording Settings Chart or something....

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zenabi

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I am wondering if someone has a chart or something similar that tells what ideal settings would be on mixing down. Examples:

1. Lead vocals are best EQ'd an come out nicely in the mix when set at "these" settings.
2. Also what plug-ins work well with vocals etc.

I'm new to recording. Fairly new anyhow. Is this an unreasonable request?

-Law
 
That would be kinda cool, just to see what others are doing.

I'd be interested to see if anyone has any "forms" that they use to keep notes on. Like, settings when they recorded X track using X mic, etc. That'd be pretty nifty as well.
 
zenabi said:
I am wondering if someone has a chart or something similar that tells what ideal settings would be on mixing down. Examples:

1. Lead vocals are best EQ'd an come out nicely in the mix when set at "these" settings.
2. Also what plug-ins work well with vocals etc.

I'm new to recording. Fairly new anyhow. Is this an unreasonable request?

-Law


There are no mixing charts and if you don't know why, you better do some more reading.
 
zenabi said:
I am wondering if someone has a chart or something similar that tells what ideal settings would be on mixing down. Examples:

1. Lead vocals are best EQ'd an come out nicely in the mix when set at "these" settings.
2. Also what plug-ins work well with vocals etc.

I'm new to recording. Fairly new anyhow. Is this an unreasonable request?

-Law
Can't be done. Every room, every mic, every song arrangement, every singer, every console, every EQ processor, etc will change those settings. Not only will the "correct" settings change wildly between song to song, but there could be 100 totally different "correct" settings for a single recording.
 
Here's some tips I use

It's long but if you cut and paste it to word or something it is very helpful

EQ Tips

As a general rule, I'm very much against 'how to' articles because people tend not to read between the lines and just take the informations as gospel. However, I did pick this up somewhere (no credit due to me) and it does give some reasonable advice about mixing in general;

Definitions/Explanations: Equalization is the increase or decrease of signal strength for a portion of (a band of) audio frequencies. The audio we record (the sound made by instruments or voices) is complex. By this we mean that it is composed of energy at different audio frequencies. If we take a bass control (a simple equalizer) and turn the knob clockwise, we will get an increase in strength of the signal (or the signal component) that has lower frequencies (usually any component below about 500 Hz). Thus equalization effects the tone because it changes the level relationship of the fundamental and harmonic frequencies.

A Shelf Equalizer boosts (or reduces) energy at the set frequency and all audio frequencies above it (a high-frequency shelf control) or all audio frequencies below it (a low-frequency shelf control).

A Peak Equalizer boosts (or reduces) at the set frequency and a band of frequencies close to the set frequency.

The "Q" control sets the width of the band of frequencies that will be boosted or reduced; in other words it affects the amount of frequencies around the center frequency which will have a similar amount of boost or reduction. The width of the band is given in octaves. Q affects this width, but high Q numbers mean a narrower band of frequencies will be affected. To start, you will need to be able to identify the "Q" settings that go as narrow as 1/2 octave to as wide as 2 octaves. The conversion chart below relates Q settings to bandwidth.
Q Setting Bandwidth
0.7 2 Octaves
1.0 1 1/3 Octaves
1.4 1 Octave
2.8, no 2.9* 1/2 Octave

The amount of boost or cut is determined by the "dB" setting of the equalizer. Most equalizers can boost or reduce energy by 12 dB (up to 4 times/one-quarter the level). Some equalizers can boost or reduce up to 15 dB.

Tips/Guidelines on determining Shelf/Peak/Q & Amount of EQ:
1. Shelf equalizers are good for general tone changes in the bottom or top three octaves of the audio frequencies. Thus a low-frequency shelf control could be used effectively at 320 Hz or below and a high frequency shelf control at 2500 Hz or higher.

2. Shelf equalizers are best used for reducing rather than boosting energy. The very top octave (10 kHz - 20 kHz) often has more noise component (hiss) than useful sound. The same is true for the lowest octave (20 Hz to 40 Hz) except the noise is rumble rather than hiss. When boosting for general increase in brightness or general increase in bass, use a peak equalizer. Suggested settings: For general inc in brightness, boost 5 kHz with a 2 octave bandwidth (Q= 0.7). For general inc. in bass, boost 80 Hz with a two octave bandwidth (Q=0.7).

3. The Q setting of 1.0 (1 1/3 octaves), I call it the "Magic Q". In general this is a bandwidth that matches how the different instruments cover the different frequency ranges of audio. For more percussive instruments (such as drums), you can narrow the bandwidth with Q settings as high as about 2.8. For more melodic instruments, such as voices and stringed instruments, you can broaden the bandwidth down with Q settings as low as 0.7.

4. In general, boost less and cut more. The ear is accustomed to hearing reduction in energy in a band (due to sound-absorbing material for instance), thus the ear will hear a boost easier than a cut (a reduction). In general, a 6 dB boost is about as apparent as a 9 dB reduction. When equalizing during mixing try to reduce unwanted frequencies more than you boost desired frequencies. This will result in "clarity" with less "falseness" to the sound. If you look at a console after a mix that has been done by an experienced engineer, you will find more reduction settings than boosting settings.

5. Equalization is all to often misused to compensate for poor level settings. If you find you want your settings to be more than 6 dB boost, investigate and see if a readjustment of levels could help, reducing the amount of boost at the equalizer.
Training hint: I recommend to someone new to use the "6 dB rule" - Never, while recording or mixing, boost more than 6 dB with the equalizer, period for the first 50 mixes you do.

Use the following Recommended Expanded Frequency Chart as a starting point.
50Hz: 1. Increase to add more fullness to lowest frequency instruments like foot, toms, and the bass. Peak equalization with a 1.4 Q.
2. Reduce to decrease the "boom" of the bass and will increase overtones and the recognition of bass line in the mix. This is most often used on loud bass lines like rock. Shelf equalization.

100Hz: 1. Inc. to add a harder bass sound to lowest freq instruments. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0 to 1.4..
2. Increase to add fullness to guitars, snare. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0..
3. Increase to add warmth to piano and horns. Peak Equalization. For piano use a Q of 1.0. With horn use a Q of 1.4..
4. Reduce to remove boom on guitars & increase clarity. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0 to 1.4..

200Hz: 1. Inc. to add fullness to vocals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 0.7 to 1.0..
2. Inc. to add fullness to snare and guit ( harder sound ). Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4.
3. Reduce to dec. muddiness of vocals or mid-range inst. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
4. Reduce to decrease gong sound of cymbals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

400Hz: 1. Increase to add clarity to bass lines especially when speakers are at low volume. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Reduce to dec. "cardboard" sound of lower drums (foot and toms). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
3. Reduce to decrease ambiance on cymbals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 0.7 to 1.0. Alternately try a shelf EQ with a 320 Hz frequency setting.

800Hz: 1. Inc. for clarity and "punch" of bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
2. Reduce to remove "cheap" sound of guitars. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

1.5KHz: 1. Inc. for "clarity" and "pluck" of bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4..
2. Reduce to remove dullness of guitars. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

3KHz: 1. Increase for more "pluck" of bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
2. Inc. for more attack of electric / acoustic guit. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
3. Increase for more attack on low piano parts. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
4. Increase for more clarity / hardness on voice. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
5. Reduce to increase breathy, soft sound on background vocals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
6. Reduce to disguise out-of-tune vocals / guitars. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
7. Inc. for more attack on the snare or other drums. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.

5KHz: 1. Increase for vocal presence. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Increase low freq drum attack ( foot / toms). Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.
3. Increase for more "finger sound" on bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
4. Increase attack of piano, acoustic guitar and brightness on guitars (especially rock guitars). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
5. Reduce to make b/g parts more distant. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
6. Reduce to soften "thin" guitar. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

7KHz: 1. Increase to add attack on low freq drums ( more metallic sound ). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.
2. Increase to add attack to percussion instruments. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.
3. Increase on dull singer. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
4. Increase for more "finger sound" on acoustic bass. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4.
5. Reduce to decrease "s" sound on singers. Peak Eq with a Q of 2.8. Sweep frequency slightly (between 7 kHz and 8 kHz) to find the "exact" frequency of the S
6. Increase to add sharpness to synthesizers, rock guitars, acoustic guitar and piano. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0 to 1.4.

10KHz: 1. Increase to brighten vocals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Inc. for "light brightness" in acoustic guitar and piano. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
3. Increase for hardness on cymbals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
4. Reduce to decrease "s" sound on singers. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.

15KHz: 1. Inc. to brighten vocals (breath sound). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Inc. to brighten cymbals, string instruments and flutes. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
3. Inc. to make sampled synth sound more real. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.

Frequency Octaves: Use the description of octaves to determine where you want to set your eq's freq control.

Equalization Techniques: 1. Boosting Harmonic Frequencies
Boosting harmonics is one of the first techniques an engineer learns to increase clarity and distinction on instruments. This is a very valid method of equalizing. Some of the suggested eq settings from the eq freq chart used these techniques:

Instrument Frequency Description

Bass- 400 Hz "Increase to add clarity to bass lines..."
Bass- 1500 Hz " Increase for ‘clarity’ & ‘pluck..."
Guitar- 3 kHz "Increase to add attack..."
Guitar- 5 kHz. "Increase ‘brightness..."
Vocal- 5 kHz "Increase for vocal presence."
Vocal- 10 kHz "Increase to brighten vocals."
Notice that there are at least two frequencies in the harmonic range of the above instruments that could be accented for "clarity" or "brightness"

2. Boosting Fundamental Frequencies: The boosting of fundamental frequencies is also one of the first things a new engineer tries, but boosting of fundamentals should be the last thing ever considered. Accenting fundamental frequencies usually makes the instrument indistinct and muddy sounding. The fundamental frequencies of two instruments playing the same part are the same, therefore, accenting the fundamental of instruments playing the same part makes both instruments closer to sounding the same (indistinction). When two instruments are playing similar parts in the same key they also get indistinct when the fundamental of either instrument is boosted. If an instrument sounds "thin" or "small" one can carefully boost fundamental frequencies to correct this. The microphone could have been poorly placed and/or the harmonics over-boosted with EQ. Another application for boosting fundamental frequencies would be to do so when an instrument was playing by itself (in solos etc.).

3. Reducing Fundamental Frequencies: Reducing fundamental freq in an instrument tends to accent all of the harmonics and is a good alternative to boosting harmonics. The method is most often used in rock recording but works well for all styles of music. This technique found its way to the suggested freq chart:

Instrument Frequency Description
Bass- 40 Hz "Reduce to decrease "boom" and increase recognition."
Guitar- 100 Hz "Reduce to decrease boom and increase clarity."
Vocal- 200 Hz "Reduce to decrease muddiness of vocals."

4. Complementary Equalization: One of the hardest things to overcome in mixing is the hearing limitation known as masking. Masking is one sound covering up all or part of another sound because the frequencies of the two sounds are close. The sound that is slightly louder sort of "wipes out" the other sound. The way this works with music is that one instrument will make the other instrument sound dull and indistinct. It is frustrating to both the novice and the experienced engineer that an instrument sounds so great by itself and so "lifeless" in the mix. An equalizer is a "level control" for certain rangers of frequencies. When you boost a frequency with EQ, you are making the dialed up frequency louder than others (as well as frequencies that are close to the frequency set on the equalizer). When you dip or cut with an equalizer you are reducing level of frequencies in that range. When you have indistinct sound between two instruments, you can use a method called "complementary equalization." The idea is to boost a certain frequency on one instrument and dip that same frequency on another instrument. This will get both instruments distinct, when properly done.
Some key conflicts that come up often in mixes include:

Foot Drum Vs. Bass
Dip between 350 Hz and 400Hz on the foot drum (to remove the "cardboard" sound) and increase the same frequency on the bass (to add bass presence).

Lead Vocals Vs. Background Vocals
Dip between 3 kHz and 4 kHz on the background vocals to give them an "airy" sound and increase the same frequency on the lead vocal. When using this method you will be surprised that you get a lot of change with only a little amount of equalization. Use between 3 dB and 6 dB of boost and cut.

A Typical Example: The following example uses all of the techniques discussed.
Instrumentation is Drums, Bass, Electric Guitar, Keyboard with Lead and B/G Vocals. "+" indicates boost and "-" indicates reduction at given frequency.
Instrument EQ Settings Notes

Foot -6 @ 400 Hz +4 @ 5 kHz Reduces box quality. Increases attack
Snare +4 @7 kHz +2 @ 100 kHz Increases snap. Adds fullness to high-
tuned snare
All Drums -4 @ 400 Hz +4 @ 15 kHz Decreases ambiance & increases bass
clarity. Increases cymbal sizzle.
Bass -2 @ 50 Hz +4 @ 400 Hz +2 @ 1.5 kHz Increase clarity of bass. Adds clarity to bass line and recognition at low volume. Increases pluck and recognition.
Guitar -4 @ 100 Hz +2 @ 3 kHz Increases guitar vs. bass distinction. Increases attack ( 3 kHz needs much less boost once 100 Hz is reduced).
keyboards +4 @ 5 kHz Increases clarity & brightness.
Lead Vocal +4 @ 10 kHz +2 @ 5 kHz ? @ 200 Hz Brightens and adds presence. At 200 Hz, reduce 2 or 4 to add clarity to low vox inc. 2 or 4 to fill out high vocals.
Bkg. Vocal -6 @ 5 kHz Sets background back and increases lead
vs. background distinction

This "textbook" EQ can’t be expected to work on all sessions. On the right session, however, it would give a very natural sounding recording or mix with surprising clarity and punch. Notice that boosting two instruments at the same frequency was carefully avoided. Notice that reductions were generally larger than boosts.
 
I'm not looking for a bible. I am after a "general rule of thumb." My plan is to do more reading but asking questions helps to find the right path for what I am trying to accomplish. I appreciate your reply though. -Law
HangDawg said:
There are no mixing charts and if you don't know why, you better do some more reading.
 
zenabi said:
I'm not looking for a bible. I am after a "general rule of thumb." My plan is to do more reading but asking questions helps to find the right path for what I am trying to accomplish. I appreciate your reply though. -Law


What are you trying to accomplish?
 
Ok. You received no credit for the information but credit is due for helping people out. I appreciate it. -Law

HomeMadeHitShow said:
Here's some tips I use

It's long but if you cut and paste it to word or something it is very helpful

EQ Tips

As a general rule, I'm very much against 'how to' articles because people tend not to read between the lines and just take the informations as gospel. However, I did pick this up somewhere (no credit due to me) and it does give some reasonable advice about mixing in general;

Definitions/Explanations: Equalization is the increase or decrease of signal strength for a portion of (a band of) audio frequencies. The audio we record (the sound made by instruments or voices) is complex. By this we mean that it is composed of energy at different audio frequencies. If we take a bass control (a simple equalizer) and turn the knob clockwise, we will get an increase in strength of the signal (or the signal component) that has lower frequencies (usually any component below about 500 Hz). Thus equalization effects the tone because it changes the level relationship of the fundamental and harmonic frequencies.

A Shelf Equalizer boosts (or reduces) energy at the set frequency and all audio frequencies above it (a high-frequency shelf control) or all audio frequencies below it (a low-frequency shelf control).

A Peak Equalizer boosts (or reduces) at the set frequency and a band of frequencies close to the set frequency.

The "Q" control sets the width of the band of frequencies that will be boosted or reduced; in other words it affects the amount of frequencies around the center frequency which will have a similar amount of boost or reduction. The width of the band is given in octaves. Q affects this width, but high Q numbers mean a narrower band of frequencies will be affected. To start, you will need to be able to identify the "Q" settings that go as narrow as 1/2 octave to as wide as 2 octaves. The conversion chart below relates Q settings to bandwidth.
Q Setting Bandwidth
0.7 2 Octaves
1.0 1 1/3 Octaves
1.4 1 Octave
2.8, no 2.9* 1/2 Octave

The amount of boost or cut is determined by the "dB" setting of the equalizer. Most equalizers can boost or reduce energy by 12 dB (up to 4 times/one-quarter the level). Some equalizers can boost or reduce up to 15 dB.

Tips/Guidelines on determining Shelf/Peak/Q & Amount of EQ:
1. Shelf equalizers are good for general tone changes in the bottom or top three octaves of the audio frequencies. Thus a low-frequency shelf control could be used effectively at 320 Hz or below and a high frequency shelf control at 2500 Hz or higher.

2. Shelf equalizers are best used for reducing rather than boosting energy. The very top octave (10 kHz - 20 kHz) often has more noise component (hiss) than useful sound. The same is true for the lowest octave (20 Hz to 40 Hz) except the noise is rumble rather than hiss. When boosting for general increase in brightness or general increase in bass, use a peak equalizer. Suggested settings: For general inc in brightness, boost 5 kHz with a 2 octave bandwidth (Q= 0.7). For general inc. in bass, boost 80 Hz with a two octave bandwidth (Q=0.7).

3. The Q setting of 1.0 (1 1/3 octaves), I call it the "Magic Q". In general this is a bandwidth that matches how the different instruments cover the different frequency ranges of audio. For more percussive instruments (such as drums), you can narrow the bandwidth with Q settings as high as about 2.8. For more melodic instruments, such as voices and stringed instruments, you can broaden the bandwidth down with Q settings as low as 0.7.

4. In general, boost less and cut more. The ear is accustomed to hearing reduction in energy in a band (due to sound-absorbing material for instance), thus the ear will hear a boost easier than a cut (a reduction). In general, a 6 dB boost is about as apparent as a 9 dB reduction. When equalizing during mixing try to reduce unwanted frequencies more than you boost desired frequencies. This will result in "clarity" with less "falseness" to the sound. If you look at a console after a mix that has been done by an experienced engineer, you will find more reduction settings than boosting settings.

5. Equalization is all to often misused to compensate for poor level settings. If you find you want your settings to be more than 6 dB boost, investigate and see if a readjustment of levels could help, reducing the amount of boost at the equalizer.
Training hint: I recommend to someone new to use the "6 dB rule" - Never, while recording or mixing, boost more than 6 dB with the equalizer, period for the first 50 mixes you do.

Use the following Recommended Expanded Frequency Chart as a starting point.
50Hz: 1. Increase to add more fullness to lowest frequency instruments like foot, toms, and the bass. Peak equalization with a 1.4 Q.
2. Reduce to decrease the "boom" of the bass and will increase overtones and the recognition of bass line in the mix. This is most often used on loud bass lines like rock. Shelf equalization.

100Hz: 1. Inc. to add a harder bass sound to lowest freq instruments. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0 to 1.4..
2. Increase to add fullness to guitars, snare. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0..
3. Increase to add warmth to piano and horns. Peak Equalization. For piano use a Q of 1.0. With horn use a Q of 1.4..
4. Reduce to remove boom on guitars & increase clarity. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0 to 1.4..

200Hz: 1. Inc. to add fullness to vocals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 0.7 to 1.0..
2. Inc. to add fullness to snare and guit ( harder sound ). Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4.
3. Reduce to dec. muddiness of vocals or mid-range inst. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
4. Reduce to decrease gong sound of cymbals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

400Hz: 1. Increase to add clarity to bass lines especially when speakers are at low volume. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Reduce to dec. "cardboard" sound of lower drums (foot and toms). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
3. Reduce to decrease ambiance on cymbals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 0.7 to 1.0. Alternately try a shelf EQ with a 320 Hz frequency setting.

800Hz: 1. Inc. for clarity and "punch" of bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
2. Reduce to remove "cheap" sound of guitars. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

1.5KHz: 1. Inc. for "clarity" and "pluck" of bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4..
2. Reduce to remove dullness of guitars. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

3KHz: 1. Increase for more "pluck" of bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
2. Inc. for more attack of electric / acoustic guit. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
3. Increase for more attack on low piano parts. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
4. Increase for more clarity / hardness on voice. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
5. Reduce to increase breathy, soft sound on background vocals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
6. Reduce to disguise out-of-tune vocals / guitars. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
7. Inc. for more attack on the snare or other drums. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.

5KHz: 1. Increase for vocal presence. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Increase low freq drum attack ( foot / toms). Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.
3. Increase for more "finger sound" on bass. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
4. Increase attack of piano, acoustic guitar and brightness on guitars (especially rock guitars). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
5. Reduce to make b/g parts more distant. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
6. Reduce to soften "thin" guitar. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.

7KHz: 1. Increase to add attack on low freq drums ( more metallic sound ). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.
2. Increase to add attack to percussion instruments. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.
3. Increase on dull singer. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
4. Increase for more "finger sound" on acoustic bass. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4.
5. Reduce to decrease "s" sound on singers. Peak Eq with a Q of 2.8. Sweep frequency slightly (between 7 kHz and 8 kHz) to find the "exact" frequency of the S
6. Increase to add sharpness to synthesizers, rock guitars, acoustic guitar and piano. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0 to 1.4.

10KHz: 1. Increase to brighten vocals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Inc. for "light brightness" in acoustic guitar and piano. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
3. Increase for hardness on cymbals. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.
4. Reduce to decrease "s" sound on singers. Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.4.

15KHz: 1. Inc. to brighten vocals (breath sound). Peak Equalization with a Q of 1.0.
2. Inc. to brighten cymbals, string instruments and flutes. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.0.
3. Inc. to make sampled synth sound more real. Peak Eq with a Q of 1.4 to 2.8.

Frequency Octaves: Use the description of octaves to determine where you want to set your eq's freq control.

Equalization Techniques: 1. Boosting Harmonic Frequencies
Boosting harmonics is one of the first techniques an engineer learns to increase clarity and distinction on instruments. This is a very valid method of equalizing. Some of the suggested eq settings from the eq freq chart used these techniques:

Instrument Frequency Description

Bass- 400 Hz "Increase to add clarity to bass lines..."
Bass- 1500 Hz " Increase for ‘clarity’ & ‘pluck..."
Guitar- 3 kHz "Increase to add attack..."
Guitar- 5 kHz. "Increase ‘brightness..."
Vocal- 5 kHz "Increase for vocal presence."
Vocal- 10 kHz "Increase to brighten vocals."
Notice that there are at least two frequencies in the harmonic range of the above instruments that could be accented for "clarity" or "brightness"

2. Boosting Fundamental Frequencies: The boosting of fundamental frequencies is also one of the first things a new engineer tries, but boosting of fundamentals should be the last thing ever considered. Accenting fundamental frequencies usually makes the instrument indistinct and muddy sounding. The fundamental frequencies of two instruments playing the same part are the same, therefore, accenting the fundamental of instruments playing the same part makes both instruments closer to sounding the same (indistinction). When two instruments are playing similar parts in the same key they also get indistinct when the fundamental of either instrument is boosted. If an instrument sounds "thin" or "small" one can carefully boost fundamental frequencies to correct this. The microphone could have been poorly placed and/or the harmonics over-boosted with EQ. Another application for boosting fundamental frequencies would be to do so when an instrument was playing by itself (in solos etc.).

3. Reducing Fundamental Frequencies: Reducing fundamental freq in an instrument tends to accent all of the harmonics and is a good alternative to boosting harmonics. The method is most often used in rock recording but works well for all styles of music. This technique found its way to the suggested freq chart:

Instrument Frequency Description
Bass- 40 Hz "Reduce to decrease "boom" and increase recognition."
Guitar- 100 Hz "Reduce to decrease boom and increase clarity."
Vocal- 200 Hz "Reduce to decrease muddiness of vocals."

4. Complementary Equalization: One of the hardest things to overcome in mixing is the hearing limitation known as masking. Masking is one sound covering up all or part of another sound because the frequencies of the two sounds are close. The sound that is slightly louder sort of "wipes out" the other sound. The way this works with music is that one instrument will make the other instrument sound dull and indistinct. It is frustrating to both the novice and the experienced engineer that an instrument sounds so great by itself and so "lifeless" in the mix. An equalizer is a "level control" for certain rangers of frequencies. When you boost a frequency with EQ, you are making the dialed up frequency louder than others (as well as frequencies that are close to the frequency set on the equalizer). When you dip or cut with an equalizer you are reducing level of frequencies in that range. When you have indistinct sound between two instruments, you can use a method called "complementary equalization." The idea is to boost a certain frequency on one instrument and dip that same frequency on another instrument. This will get both instruments distinct, when properly done.
Some key conflicts that come up often in mixes include:

Foot Drum Vs. Bass
Dip between 350 Hz and 400Hz on the foot drum (to remove the "cardboard" sound) and increase the same frequency on the bass (to add bass presence).

Lead Vocals Vs. Background Vocals
Dip between 3 kHz and 4 kHz on the background vocals to give them an "airy" sound and increase the same frequency on the lead vocal. When using this method you will be surprised that you get a lot of change with only a little amount of equalization. Use between 3 dB and 6 dB of boost and cut.

A Typical Example: The following example uses all of the techniques discussed.
Instrumentation is Drums, Bass, Electric Guitar, Keyboard with Lead and B/G Vocals. "+" indicates boost and "-" indicates reduction at given frequency.
Instrument EQ Settings Notes

Foot -6 @ 400 Hz +4 @ 5 kHz Reduces box quality. Increases attack
Snare +4 @7 kHz +2 @ 100 kHz Increases snap. Adds fullness to high-
tuned snare
All Drums -4 @ 400 Hz +4 @ 15 kHz Decreases ambiance & increases bass
clarity. Increases cymbal sizzle.
Bass -2 @ 50 Hz +4 @ 400 Hz +2 @ 1.5 kHz Increase clarity of bass. Adds clarity to bass line and recognition at low volume. Increases pluck and recognition.
Guitar -4 @ 100 Hz +2 @ 3 kHz Increases guitar vs. bass distinction. Increases attack ( 3 kHz needs much less boost once 100 Hz is reduced).
keyboards +4 @ 5 kHz Increases clarity & brightness.
Lead Vocal +4 @ 10 kHz +2 @ 5 kHz ? @ 200 Hz Brightens and adds presence. At 200 Hz, reduce 2 or 4 to add clarity to low vox inc. 2 or 4 to fill out high vocals.
Bkg. Vocal -6 @ 5 kHz Sets background back and increases lead
vs. background distinction

This "textbook" EQ can’t be expected to work on all sessions. On the right session, however, it would give a very natural sounding recording or mix with surprising clarity and punch. Notice that boosting two instruments at the same frequency was carefully avoided. Notice that reductions were generally larger than boosts.
 
Well I felt as if I could produce better quality recordings. For me a general chart works best for items like this. I am "TERRIBLE" at long text book style learning/studying. I do best communicating with people/talking to them about their experiences. But for me personally this will help immensely so I can quickly know by guideline. -Law

HangDawg said:
What are you trying to accomplish?
 
zenabi said:
Well I felt as if I could produce better quality recordings. For me a general chart works best for items like this. I am "TERRIBLE" at long text book style learning/studying. I do best communicating with people/talking to them about their experiences. But for me personally this will help immensely so I can quickly know by guideline. -Law
Again, a chart would be useless. Way too much changes from project to project, or even take to take. I can however offer some guidelines...

Don't rely on EQ to "produce better quality recordings". It should sound 90% done as soon as you record it. If it doesn't sound fantastic with no EQ, it will never sound fantastic with EQ.

Try to cut EQ more than you try to boost it. Remove what's wrong, don't add what's missing.

Almost never do EQ adjustments to a soloed track. It doesn't matter what a track sounds like solo. It only matters what it sounds like in the mix. Do your EQ with the full mix playing.

Try to do your EQ adjustment by moving your microphone when recording, not by twisting knobs when mixing.

If you find yourself boosting or cutting more than 6 db, chances are you're better off re-recording the track.

The single best thing you can do to make the best recordings with the best EQ balance is to put as much money as you can into your monitor speakers, your room treatment, your monitor amp, and your converters.
 
This thread saddens me. :(

There is no chart, nor will there be a chart like what you seek. It is an impossible chart to make, because there ARE NO GENERAL RULES OF THUMBS in audio production that work across the board. You can't even generalize in general.

SO MUCH depends upon EVERYTHING about the production. It is IMPOSSIBLE to generalize how to go about a kick drum even! I mean, which kind of kick drum are we talking about? Death Metal Stabby, Big Band BOOMY, funk band bouncy? What mic did you use? Was it recorded to analog tape? GOOD analog tape? What eq's do you have available. I can assure you that an API eq sounds VERY different than a Mackie eq, or the Sonitus eq contained in Sonar. What compressors do you have available? Certainly, I would apply MUCH different settings depending upon the knee!

That is JUST the kick drum and already, we have so many options, and different scenario's. Just last night, I was working with xfinsterx on a mix for his band. Normally, for his kind of music, I would be comrpessing the hell out of the kick drum, but last night, it just didn't need it at all. A bit of eq and all was well. But, the last time I worked with another band he is in, we had to smash the hell out of the kick drum to make it behave. But, the fact is, I approached that kick drum WAY different than the kicks drums on the funk CD's I have mixed.

So, I can't even give you a "rule of thumb" about a silly kick drum without having to practically write a book about it! I could EASILY dedicate 10k words to talking about BASIC stuff about kick drums, and that would still be horribly inadequate to cover the spectrum. It would most likely pose more questions to you than it would answer!

zenabi, welcome to the world of audio. You can expect to achieve great results in your productions once you have put in the required number of hours to read and learn, and also experiment like the people who do good work before you have. There is NO shortcut.

YOu will want to learn about what EQ is, and what the different controls do. It is the only way you can have a start on HOW to use an eq. You HAVE to understand what it does, and understand what the knobs do. THEN, you analyze what you hear, and experiment with the EQ to change what you hear to what you want it to sound like. BUT, eq might not be the right tool.

You will want to learn about compression. Same as EQ. Learn what it does, and what the knobs do, then experiment.

I have spent MANY YEARS, and at least 10,000 hours mixing music. I just know from experience that to "produce better quality recordings" that there are no "general rules of thumb" for anything! How I would go about recording a vocalist, and how I would process that vocal would be WILDLY different if one of them I used a SM-58 to a 4 track cassette, and the other was a Sony C12 to a Apogee converter going into a DAW. The tools available are so wildly different that there is no way I would even do the same thing in each of those scenarios. Get it?

So, buckle down buddy. You are on a long road to learning. It will be a little bit at a time. IF you spend the time to learn and experiemnt extensively, you will look two years from now, and realize that what you thought made sense today, didn't make much sense at all! Until you gain a LOT of experience, you are just not going to know what you don't know. ;)
 
Ford Van said:
This thread saddens me. :(

There is no chart, nor will there be a chart like what you seek. It is an impossible chart to make, because there ARE NO GENERAL RULES OF THUMBS in audio production that work across the board. You can't even generalize in general.

SO MUCH depends upon EVERYTHING about the production. It is IMPOSSIBLE to generalize how to go about a kick drum even! I mean, which kind of kick drum are we talking about? Death Metal Stabby, Big Band BOOMY, funk band bouncy? What mic did you use? Was it recorded to analog tape? GOOD analog tape? What eq's do you have available. I can assure you that an API eq sounds VERY different than a Mackie eq, or the Sonitus eq contained in Sonar. What compressors do you have available? Certainly, I would apply MUCH different settings depending upon the knee!

That is JUST the kick drum and already, we have so many options, and different scenario's. Just last night, I was working with xfinsterx on a mix for his band. Normally, for his kind of music, I would be comrpessing the hell out of the kick drum, but last night, it just didn't need it at all. A bit of eq and all was well. But, the last time I worked with another band he is in, we had to smash the hell out of the kick drum to make it behave. But, the fact is, I approached that kick drum WAY different than the kicks drums on the funk CD's I have mixed.

So, I can't even give you a "rule of thumb" about a silly kick drum without having to practically write a book about it! I could EASILY dedicate 10k words to talking about BASIC stuff about kick drums, and that would still be horribly inadequate to cover the spectrum. It would most likely pose more questions to you than it would answer!

zenabi, welcome to the world of audio. You can expect to achieve great results in your productions once you have put in the required number of hours to read and learn, and also experiment like the people who do good work before you have. There is NO shortcut.

YOu will want to learn about what EQ is, and what the different controls do. It is the only way you can have a start on HOW to use an eq. You HAVE to understand what it does, and understand what the knobs do. THEN, you analyze what you hear, and experiment with the EQ to change what you hear to what you want it to sound like. BUT, eq might not be the right tool.

You will want to learn about compression. Same as EQ. Learn what it does, and what the knobs do, then experiment.

I have spent MANY YEARS, and at least 10,000 hours mixing music. I just know from experience that to "produce better quality recordings" that there are no "general rules of thumb" for anything! How I would go about recording a vocalist, and how I would process that vocal would be WILDLY different if one of them I used a SM-58 to a 4 track cassette, and the other was a Sony C12 to a Apogee converter going into a DAW. The tools available are so wildly different that there is no way I would even do the same thing in each of those scenarios. Get it?

So, buckle down buddy. You are on a long road to learning. It will be a little bit at a time. IF you spend the time to learn and experiemnt extensively, you will look two years from now, and realize that what you thought made sense today, didn't make much sense at all! Until you gain a LOT of experience, you are just not going to know what you don't know. ;)


Hey Ford Van...I appreciate the help. Sometimes you never know for sure. Everyone obviously has different thoughts and opinions. Don't let the thread sadden you. Questions are a great vehicle to learn. There aren't any stupid questions. I am a partner in an amplifier business and I get this all the time. However, people do have questions and.......all of them are good. Remember, the people learning today will be the one's that will be where you are at tomorrow. Thank you for the warm welcome.
 
zenabi said:
I am wondering if someone has a chart or something similar that tells what ideal settings would be on mixing down. Examples:

1. Lead vocals are best EQ'd an come out nicely in the mix when set at "these" settings.
2. Also what plug-ins work well with vocals etc.

I'm new to recording. Fairly new anyhow. Is this an unreasonable request?

In a way, it is. The posts in here by Chibi Nappa and Ford Van are good suggestions.

The EQ Primer that HomeMadeHitShow posted is a really helpful guideline that's been around on the net for years. It starts to give an idea of what EQ can do for you, but it goes beyond that. It's really a begining point for understanding what EQ does.

When you're mixing a song, you can manipulate the sounds in 3 dimensions, kind of as if you're working in a cube. The cube has length, width and height. You can use volume, panning, EQ and effects to move the sounds through all 3 dimensions. EQ affects "height".

Whatever your EQ needs are will change with each track.
If you have a recording that lacks something in the tone of the instrument, EQ can be used to correct it to make it sound more natural. It's a good practice to try and get your core sounds very close through tracking, mic placement etc.. This will serve you better than fixing it in the mix, but it's not always possible. Sometimes a sound that works great on its own isn't necessarily what you need in a mix.

If you have something that already sounds "natural", you can use EQ to boost its frequency range. Sometimes. Maybe. To get more of a "larger than life" kind of sound, and push it beyond the boundaries, if that works for the type of song and mix you're working on. Sometimes it's cool, sometimes it's wrong.

A very common approach, and probably a good place to start is complimentary EQ, which is neither of the above.

If you have several instruments that occupy a similar range of frequencies like kick & bass in the low range, guitar vocals and snare in the midrange etc... you can carve out different frequencies on different instruments to add to overall clarity of the mix as a whole. It might not do much for a sound on its own, but in a mix with everything happening at once, everything becomes more distinct.

Another thing to try is to solo a sound, drop the volume on it a bit, grab a parametric EQ and boost one band by around 6 or 9 dB and sweep through the range from low to high. If you hear something that sounds especially good, it might qualify for a bit of boost. Anything that sounds obnoxious might qualify for a cut. Sometimes small adjustments are all that's necessary, so you might try to keep your adjustments to around 3 dB or so at a time until you get more familiar with what you're doing. Always, always check your EQ changes in the mix, not just soloed.

Since your needs change with each track, type of music and style of mix you're going for, it's hard to hand out cookie cutter settings that probably won't do anything but make it sound worse. You really need to hear it.

Listen to reference songs of commercial mixes that you want to emulate, on your monitoring speakers, at the volume you're going to be mixing at, before you mix. Pay attention to the tonal character of each sound, and also how loud that particular sound is relative to everything else. This can help to tune your ears in to what you want before you begin.

Setting your volume balances wrong can throw you in terms of what you need for EQ. eg. if the bass is too loud, it will mask everything. The solution is not to EQ, it's to turn the bass down.


sl
 
I don't think he was actually wanting a cookie cutter cheat sheet. I think he was just curious as to what others were doing, and what was working for them and what wasn't. While it'd be an essay for someone to write/type/speak, I still think it'd be kinda nifty.
 
snow lizard said:
In a way, it is. The posts in here by Chibi Nappa and Ford Van are good suggestions.

The EQ Primer that HomeMadeHitShow posted is a really helpful guideline that's been around on the net for years. It starts to give an idea of what EQ can do for you, but it goes beyond that. It's really a begining point for understanding what EQ does.

When you're mixing a song, you can manipulate the sounds in 3 dimensions, kind of as if you're working in a cube. The cube has length, width and height. You can use volume, panning, EQ and effects to move the sounds through all 3 dimensions. EQ affects "height".

Whatever your EQ needs are will change with each track.
If you have a recording that lacks something in the tone of the instrument, EQ can be used to correct it to make it sound more natural. It's a good practice to try and get your core sounds very close through tracking, mic placement etc.. This will serve you better than fixing it in the mix, but it's not always possible. Sometimes a sound that works great on its own isn't necessarily what you need in a mix.

If you have something that already sounds "natural", you can use EQ to boost its frequency range. Sometimes. Maybe. To get more of a "larger than life" kind of sound, and push it beyond the boundaries, if that works for the type of song and mix you're working on. Sometimes it's cool, sometimes it's wrong.

A very common approach, and probably a good place to start is complimentary EQ, which is neither of the above.

If you have several instruments that occupy a similar range of frequencies like kick & bass in the low range, guitar vocals and snare in the midrange etc... you can carve out different frequencies on different instruments to add to overall clarity of the mix as a whole. It might not do much for a sound on its own, but in a mix with everything happening at once, everything becomes more distinct.

Another thing to try is to solo a sound, drop the volume on it a bit, grab a parametric EQ and boost one band by around 6 or 9 dB and sweep through the range from low to high. If you hear something that sounds especially good, it might qualify for a bit of boost. Anything that sounds obnoxious might qualify for a cut. Sometimes small adjustments are all that's necessary, so you might try to keep your adjustments to around 3 dB or so at a time until you get more familiar with what you're doing. Always, always check your EQ changes in the mix, not just soloed.

Since your needs change with each track, type of music and style of mix you're going for, it's hard to hand out cookie cutter settings that probably won't do anything but make it sound worse. You really need to hear it.

Listen to reference songs of commercial mixes that you want to emulate, on your monitoring speakers, at the volume you're going to be mixing at, before you mix. Pay attention to the tonal character of each sound, and also how loud that particular sound is relative to everything else. This can help to tune your ears in to what you want before you begin.

Setting your volume balances wrong can throw you in terms of what you need for EQ. eg. if the bass is too loud, it will mask everything. The solution is not to EQ, it's to turn the bass down.


sl

Thanks for the input. I can tell that this forum will be very helpful.
 
there is a direct X plugin for steinberg(cubase, wavelab, etc) called free filter. there is also one called Har-bal.....what you do is take a cd that you consider to be the BEST example of mastering for the genre you are mixing, rip a track off of the cd (to WAV) , open the track in the DAW, and those plugins learn the EQ Curve and settings for that track.you then save the settings that the Plugin learned, and apply to your own track...I dont use it to the T, but it is a GREAT learning tool.....good baseline from which to play around.

check the mastering webboard too. (google mastering webboard)
 
the only chart I can think of is a sort of rogue chart for EQ "characteristics". Not very common to find.


Or in other words, the range of frequencies that provide specific outcomes if boosted, attenuated, or both based on a pretty generalized language. Helpful more to someone that is training to be extremely proficient in EQ behavior (like a mastering engineer).

I'd have to draw it up since I don't have a scanner.

However, unfortunately some of the replies where right:


There's no one-size-fits-all. Sometimes you have to EQ a certain way just to minimize or eliminate excessive room ambience. Other times you EQ to make up for the lack of a desired characteristic (poor micing, equippement, whatever.)

On top of that, it's always been my belief to never become used to attacking a problem immediately in one way.

If a vocal is lacking presence, and I know that presence is found in the high mids-highs (not extreme highs), it dosn't mean I will attack it right away with that option.

If I need more "air" out of that vocal, I know that airyness is found in the extreme high end. Again, it dosn't mean I jump to doing that.

In my experience, if you jump straight to one conclusion with only one solution, you're either a genius or a really impaitient engineer. :D
 
Plug-ins for vocals... I'm starting to like the "Classic" series VST plug-ins from Kjaerhus Audio.
 
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