D
Dannyjack
New member
Yes, but what kind of music were you recording? Was it acoustic?
D
D
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
C
craigmorris74
New member
The Bellari gets most of the tube pre equation right, transformer input, high voltage tube, but solid state output.
I've got one, and performed mods to it to make it sound really hi-fi. I changed the transformers to Cinemags, replaced the tubes for something good (try GE's, but sometimes they throw decent ones in stock), and the opamps to Burr Browns.
Craig
I've got one, and performed mods to it to make it sound really hi-fi. I changed the transformers to Cinemags, replaced the tubes for something good (try GE's, but sometimes they throw decent ones in stock), and the opamps to Burr Browns.
Craig
I
isfahani
Disciple of Wong Jing
when it's a 'real' tube pre how can it become 'more of a real' tube pre.
it's either real or not right?
Read the above post. The mods I read about a while back are mentioned here (some of the posters look familiar, even)
https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=163337
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/144700-remember-black-lions-rp220-mod.html
I think that black lion doesn't deal with this anymore, but I'd sure like to know how difficult these transformer and op-amp swaps are, where to source the parts, and how much they cost, cause I rather like the way this sounds, and if it gets better then I am all for it!
C
craigmorris74
New member
The opamps (Burr Brown 2604-DigiKey) and tubes (any better 7025 tube) are socketed, so you just pull one out and put a new one in.
The transformer (Cinemag CMMI-8B3, Lundahl LL1538, or Jensen JT-110K-HPC-order from their websites) switch is a bit more complicated, but no too much so. You'll need to desolder the old ones, and then possibly add a zobel network across the secondaries of the new one (I know you have to on the Cinemags-see the data sheet at Cinemag.com). The Cinemag doesn't screw into the old holes, so I glued them to the board with silicone.
There are also capacitor, resistor and pot upgrades, but I only did what is listed above because I liked the sound with those three changes.
The transformer (Cinemag CMMI-8B3, Lundahl LL1538, or Jensen JT-110K-HPC-order from their websites) switch is a bit more complicated, but no too much so. You'll need to desolder the old ones, and then possibly add a zobel network across the secondaries of the new one (I know you have to on the Cinemags-see the data sheet at Cinemag.com). The Cinemag doesn't screw into the old holes, so I glued them to the board with silicone.
There are also capacitor, resistor and pot upgrades, but I only did what is listed above because I liked the sound with those three changes.