beezelbubba
Shitty Buddhist
How the hell do you wind w/42 gauge wire without breaking it.
This stuff is as thin as hair!
This stuff is as thin as hair!
How the hell do you wind w/42 gauge wire without breaking it.
This stuff is as thin as hair!
LOL. I'm using a rather Rube Goldbergeque device made from an old sewing machine, a mic stand (holding the wire spool, which is small,) and a six pack of IPA. Far too embarrassing to subject myself to the ridicule of posting pics.lol, yeh it's pretty much thinner than that and more fragile...
What are you trying to wind onto? Are you using a winder of any type or trying by hand.
As far as handling the wire itself you need to just let it come off the spool which should be stood on it's end on the floor.
If you hunt through the HR build thread and my LP build thread there is some stuff in there on how I do it. Both are linked in the top sticky but I can't remember which page so just scroll through. JCH has a slightly better setup and is a little more ahead of the curve than I am on winding so he may chip in. Let us know what you are attempting and how? I know from your past threads that you will find your own way in the end.. I have some videos somewhere of my winder and I'll try and link to them..
Very cool. I'm excited for you that you're giving this a try. As muttley mentioned the only way to de-spool the wire is from the end. Using your fingers to tension the wire takes a little practice, but you'll get the hang of it. I did it that way for years, but now I use felt tensioners even when hand winding. It helps by keeping things consistent, and it's one less thing that you need to concentrate on while winding. Some people prefer holding the wire with a piece of felt, or cloth while they guide it, though I never felt it was needed. I still wind most of the fender style pickups guiding by hand, but I built an automatic traverse machine a while back that I use for everything else.How the hell do you wind w/42 gauge wire without breaking it.
This stuff is as thin as hair!
I'm using it as a tachometer. When I built the optical interrupter switch for the counter, I included extra wires to connect the multimeter's frequency counter. 20hz = 1,200rpm.OK...
Talk me through the multimetre part?
Why wind pickups when pre wound ready to install pickups, of every imaginable winding, are pretty cheap and readily available?
Unless of course you were trying to save a dead set of vintage strat or Les paul pickups.
I'm using it as a tachometer. When I built the optical interrupter switch for the counter, I included extra wires to connect the multimeter's frequency counter. 20hz = 1,200rpm.
Keeping the winding speed constant helps with the accuracy of the tension.
I got into it initially after reading the experiences of others, and to challenge myself with a new skill. There are certainly many pickups available for sale, and the majority of those are made with the production cost as the main criteria. The pickups made with the finest components, and the most skill can be very expensive to buy, but I can make them myself for a small fraction of market prices. I have control of all of the variables that affect the final result, and there are many to consider. I take pride in knowing that those that I make in my garage are comparable to the finest available. I have nothing against those who praise cheap pickups, but there are better choices.Why wind pickups when pre wound ready to install pickups, of every imaginable winding, are pretty cheap and readily available?
Unless of course you were trying to save a dead set of vintage strat or Les paul pickups.
No, it's not a counter at all. It only tells me how fast the bobbin is rotating so I can duplicate a pickup under identical conditions. The winding speed can affect the tension, shape of the coil, and with it the tone. I'm eliminating one of the variables.OK, so essentially it's a counter...
No, it's not a counter at all. It only tells me how fast the bobbin is rotating so I can duplicate a pickup under identical conditions. The winding speed can affect the tension, shape of the coil, and with it the tone. I'm eliminating one of the variables.
Why wind pickups when pre wound ready to install pickups, of every imaginable winding, are pretty cheap and readily available?
Unless of course you were trying to save a dead set of vintage strat or Les paul pickups.
..and I like to handwind rather than machine wound.. also because I can.
What do you mean by handwind? Not using a motorized winder?
My counter is totally separate. It sits atop the machine, on the little angled block. The multimeter is measuring the RPM in real time. By keeping track of the
RPM I'm able to duplicate a pickup with more precision. The multimeter is measuring Hertz/cycles per second. 20hz equals 1200 rpm. (20x60) I made a lot of great sounding pickups by hand guiding, and scatterwinding, but the results were random. If I keep track of the turns per layer, tension, and rpm, my results are predictable.
I can build wind and pot any pickup I want cheaper and to a spec of my own. Surprisingly there are not many options for floating pickups out there and most are pretty crap..and I like to handwind rather than machine wound.. also because I can. By your argument why bother to do anything when you can pay to have it done?
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OK, so essentially it's a counter...