Biasing information ..best cool amplifier sounds, turn with a pencil eraser

LazerBeakShiek

Rad Racing Team
Class A - The signal runs 100% in the tube. Technically no clipping. Both halves of the sine wave are amplified the same. Usually found in single ended amps, but you could create a push-pull Class A. Grid always negative.

Class AB - Signal runs less than 100% but more than 50%. Most of our push-pull amps run here.

Class B - Signal runs 50% in the tube. Only 1/2 of the sine wave is amplified. Most efficient use of power in a push-pull amp, but may not sound the best.
only true class B guitar amp i know is the ADA T100-s

class C is more than 50% grid positive

fuck class D they are retarded


this is really the important one, Class AB, which occupies the space between Class A and Class B.

Virtually all guitar amps with two, four, or six (or really, just pairs) of output tubes have their power amplifier stage
operating somewhere in the Class AB region. And that's the stage you set the bias on. i think VOX AC is still class A pushpull

You don't want to set the bias so low that the amp falls out of Class B and starts playing in the Class C territory,
even a little, because when you do, you get this really ugly sounding type of distortion that is called crossover distortion. So turn up the plate, before biasing or it will fall to C.

If you bias toward Class A, the tubes will run hotter and there is a limit to how close to Class A you can get without damaging
the tubes, which is determined by a number of factors that would be best discussed from a more advanced article than this one.

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to clarify ,, its not too low that it clips...it is set 'to' low, so it clips...nothing too low about it.

This image shows how a preamp tube in your amp can be biased. The first example in blue would be biased in its central operating point,
a clean stage that doesn't distort. [A typical clean cathode resistor value on a 12AX7/ECC83 preamp tube stage would be 1.5 to 1.8K ohms with a 100K plate resistor. just specs blah blah...[

The second waveform shows overdrive distortion in the form of hi bias, which can be achieved by either increasing the plate resistor value, or decreasing the cathode resistor value. these are/can be on mini rheostats and adjustable

The third waveform is an example of cold clipping. This is achieved by increasing the value of your cathode resistor. [The Marshall cold clipper circuit uses a 10K resistor, while the typical Soldano circuit boosts that resistor value to 39K. again can be done with a rheostat. can verify on DVOM[ just specs ..blah blah

Adadepot_3TM_Installation_Instructions 2.pdf - Personal - Microsoft Edge Beta 8_15_2023 12_05...png

We LIKE the sound of a cold clipper stage. It's very musical. And blending in some overdrive distortion from an adjacent stage can add a lot of character to the sound as well.

Note that the blue first waveform is well within the lines drawn and identified as +Vcc and -Vcc. If we were to increase the gain of the stage being plate voltage in a symmetrical manner, that increases the amplitude (size) of the waveform. If it's taken as high as it can get without crossing those two lines, then that is the maximum clean power available under those conditions. Any increase in drive/bias beyond this point will result in symmetrical distortion, both top and bottom peaks being clipped at the same time.

Now we can adjust that stage for either overdrive or cold clipping by simply adjusting the bias in either direction.

Buddy holly would be class A amplification type sound..vintage
SRV would be cold clip'd AB
hair band squealing would be high biased to clipping.
play around with it..have amp 'on' guitar plugged in. dont zap yourself..use a pencil eraser to turn the ring..this shits tuff. it doesnt break easy.

class A has the best definition/clarity. sine wave.
AB has all the modern growls. set the plate voltage and you pull the bias up or down to clip the highs or lows. to taste.
you cannot do this stuff with a OD pedal in front of the preamp..
 
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this is something i wish somebody showed me before i ever spent money on a distortion pedal. the amplifier needs to be tuned for the music youre playing.

you want to clip it at the plate. hi or low. trust me. You also want to increase the plate voltage. yes. not some stupid gain pedal in front of the preamp..

a limiter will get you a fake clip, but you are not changing the power stages dynamic.

you want me to show you how to use a compressor? not like you do...
 
for real, i dont think you can VST clip with anything for the same effect..a compressor limiter is different..a VST could fake that..even look far ahead. not clip hi or low in the power stage.
Clipper vs. Limiter - The Differences, Purposes And Mastering — Mozilla Firefox 8_16_2023 12_0...png
limiting, has some advantage to plate voltage saturation, or VST clipping. Bias clippng is far Superior
Clipper vs. Limiter - The Differences, Purposes And Mastering — Mozilla Firefox 8_16_2023 12_1...png
understand? i tried to keep it light, informationally heavy, but with pictures

also tubes will degrade much faster pushed to cold clipping. might last ten months replace yearly. Amplifier set stock specs the tubes might last twenty years..
 
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does a clipper exist in real life? in any other way that plate voltages and biasing...?

a pedals led or germanium clipping circuit is not bias in the vcc-to-vcc gain stage
 
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There is a lot of confusion about valve "classes" even some of the manufacturer's data is not clear. Essentially for audio purposes and especially GUITAR amplification, it is the signal level more than the static bias point that determines the "tone". Also, cathode biased OP stages behave differently from fix bias ones.
As a CB stage is driven harder, the cathode voltage rises but does not fall quickly because of the almost ever present bypass capacitor. Thus the valve(s) are driven closer and closer to cut off or at least back down to the much less linear portion of their Vg/Ia characteristic. The EL84 is almost unique in the fact that it needs a much lower bias voltage than most Pentodes. Around 10V on the grid of a 84 will bias it to around 50mA Ia, depending of course on the value of Vg2 and to a much lesser extent on Va.

Small wonder then that 'Vox AC30' style EL84 amps tend to have an OD sound of their own.

The term "AB1" simply denotes situation where the control grid is never driven to the point where it draws an actual current. Running in "AB2" means grid current flows and such amplifiers are more efficient but of course produce considerable distortion. I dimly remember them in fairgrounds? 807s producing a lot of harsh sound but exciting!
The PI for AB2 has to be designed to allow that grid current and was often a small 12W pentode transformer coupled to the OP valve grids.

There is no equivalent to grid current in transistor circuitry. Transistors draw a base bias current all the time.

The term "signal clipper" is one that gets lumped onto almost any distortion pedal design when in fact quite often the circuit is functioning as a compressor. This usually takes the form of a pair of back to back diodes in the feedback path of an op amp, usually in series with a fixed R and a pot which varies the amount of influence the diodes have on the signal. The diodes can be Germanium, Silicon, LEDs diode strapped transistors or FETs. Each pedal designer will tell you HIS variant is the best!
A "clipper" strictly speaking uses diodes (or other devices) in shunt across the circuit. All these devices can be cascaded and their effects modified with filters. Little wonder then that there is an almost infinite variety of pedal types!

Only scratched the surface, not gone into the effect of the output impedance of valve amps and how that affects speaker behavior and loudness.

Dave.
 
almost infinite variety of pedal types!

Only scratched the surface, not gone into the effect of the output impedance of valve amps and how that affects speaker behavior and loudness.
A 16 ohm 20 watt 10" speaker , is QUIETER than a 4 ohm 20 watt 10" speaker.

The breakup is better pushing the tubes on a 16 ohm speaker cabinet setup to 32ohms bridged. It tries to stay clean , even when dimed..thick..
 
A 16 ohm 20 watt 10" speaker , is QUIETER than a 4 ohm 20 watt 10" speaker.

The breakup is better pushing the tubes on a 16 ohm speaker cabinet setup to 32ohms bridged. It tries to stay clean , even when dimed..thick..
People should be careful how far they stray from the 'indicated' speaker impedance on a valve amplifier. A 1 to 2 'mismatch' i.e. 8R tapping into 16R speaker is generally safe but it depends greatly on the amp type and power level. Do that with some 30-50W amps at full drive and there could be an expensive result. Arced valves at least and possibly a buggered OP traff.
Going the other way, 16R tap to 8 even 4R speaker is safer but still runs the risk of the valves overheating and blown fuses. If you are just messing about at 'tune up' levels you are unlikely to do harm but...'IT'Appen!

Transistor OP stages should of course never be presented with a load lower than specified and do not assume one is safe into an open circuit at full chat! A load of a hundred Ohms or so will usually be enough to keep them happy.

Guitar amplifiers are not as sophisticated as their hi fi cousins and even some of the latter are not totally bombproof!

Dave.
 
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