C
consciouspilate
New member
I have heard these are the same as a 319 if you do some mods? can anyone help me find a link to the modifications?
K
knownuttin
New member
I know what you mean. The discussion I recollect was that the problems are caused by the grille design and the reflections it causes within. This was supposedly the problem that was corrected with the design of the 319.
You might then ask, would it not behoove the manufacturer to discontinue production of the inferior design? The answer is that you would if your primary concern was your reputation in the marketplace. To be fair to Oktava, they did at least drop the price. Between that and the MC012, I can forgive a lot.
-kent
You might then ask, would it not behoove the manufacturer to discontinue production of the inferior design? The answer is that you would if your primary concern was your reputation in the marketplace. To be fair to Oktava, they did at least drop the price. Between that and the MC012, I can forgive a lot.
-kent
C
chessrock
Banned
Here's an excerpt off the RAP board from someone who did the mod you're refering to:
Took all the guts out of the case and cut out the horizontal and
vertical cast metal screen which sits in front of the wire mesh pop
screen.
Then I took a fine file and smoothed the ragged edges and touched them up with flat black paint.
Picture the 219 case with a big open hole instead of the "slotted" pop screen.
When the case is put back together, the original wire screening shows through the new open area in the front and back halves of the case.
This mod, along with the previously suggested felt/foam mod around the capsule "floor" really cuts down on bad internal reflections that color the top two octaves in this mic.
Took all the guts out of the case and cut out the horizontal and
vertical cast metal screen which sits in front of the wire mesh pop
screen.
Then I took a fine file and smoothed the ragged edges and touched them up with flat black paint.
Picture the 219 case with a big open hole instead of the "slotted" pop screen.
When the case is put back together, the original wire screening shows through the new open area in the front and back halves of the case.
This mod, along with the previously suggested felt/foam mod around the capsule "floor" really cuts down on bad internal reflections that color the top two octaves in this mic.
C
consciouspilate
New member
thats what I thought! thanks chess! where exactly can i find that post.... i want to make sure i do the whole mod and do it right... you know, because that mic was such a big investment...
K
knownuttin
New member
I knew by your name you had to be witty.
-kent
-kent
darrin_h2000
Banned
Ill most likely opt to use one with the grill removed entirely and put it back on when Im not using it.
K
knownuttin
New member
Now there's a solution that suits my laziness and mechanical ineptitude!
-kent
-kent
C
chessrock
Banned
consciouspilate said:
That was the whole post, for the most part. Found it here:
(Google Group Search: Oktava 219 mod. Group=rec.audio.pro)
http://groups.google.com/groups?as_...-8&oe=UTF-8&as_ugroup=rec.audio.pro&lr=&hl=en
philboyd studge
New member
A 2 db boost with a Q of about 4 @ 3800 Khz will do it if you're really lazy. Thats what I do, besides, I like the grille, it reminds me of an old Russian parade car.
R
Richard Monroe
Well-known member
The mod is simple- it's called MK319. It's flat out easier to just upgrade.-Richie
H
Haggard
New member
used foam inserts - that's all it took
I have an MIK 219 and simply insert thin lightweight foam strips inside the mic housing. That removed all the hollow empty sound and the mic produces solid tone. The only problem I had other than that was it is a little touchy with a pre-amp. If the pre-amp is not primo the recording from the MIK 219 will pick up a slight, barely noticable hiss.
I have an MIK 219 and simply insert thin lightweight foam strips inside the mic housing. That removed all the hollow empty sound and the mic produces solid tone. The only problem I had other than that was it is a little touchy with a pre-amp. If the pre-amp is not primo the recording from the MIK 219 will pick up a slight, barely noticable hiss.
PhilGood
Juice box hero
Another mod you can do to both the 219 and 319 is (and do this VERY carefully) remove the high-end booster disk from the capsule. Its meant to produce some reflections that cause the higher frequencies to rebound back to the capsule. It also causes a slight time-smear.
If you look at the capsule, its the disk the same diameter as the capsule, covering the diaphragm with 4 big holes and 4 small holes. Use a jewelers screwdriver and GO SLOWLY!! (if you mess up, you can puncture the membrane) Do one side, put the screws back, then do the other. You could probably get away with doing just the front.
DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
Also you can replace the 680pf capacitor at the capsule/board solder points with a 1000pf polystyrene.
If you look at the capsule, its the disk the same diameter as the capsule, covering the diaphragm with 4 big holes and 4 small holes. Use a jewelers screwdriver and GO SLOWLY!! (if you mess up, you can puncture the membrane) Do one side, put the screws back, then do the other. You could probably get away with doing just the front.
DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
Also you can replace the 680pf capacitor at the capsule/board solder points with a 1000pf polystyrene.
Similar threads
- Out2Lunch
- Analog Recording & Mixing - Tape & Gear
