B
Beck
Guest
Dr ZEE said:Now, Tim, are you saying that "your button" does not cut? Heh heh.
I never had a "button" that did not cut. (including numerous decks pulled straight out of the box... you know that brand-new gear smell
As I have said, pushing the Dolby button in on a poorly calibrated deck (of which there are many, even straight out of the box) can cut the high end too much. However, a properly calibrated deck doesn't cut the high end, but rather returns the overly bright highs to their normal state. If you play a Dolby encoded tape without Dolby, what you have is an exaggerated compressed high end (There are uses for that in production, but that’s another story).
Of course, the tape in question must be Dolby encoded in the first place. If you play a non-Dolby tape with the Dolby engaged it will kill the high end. I’m amazed by the number of people that still think Dolby is a single-ended filter for playback.
Bottom line… the majority of NR problems are due to user error.
My equipment is well calibrated; so using NR works like it should. The Dolby B/C on my TASCAM cassette is transparent. Same for my outboard Sony Dolby-C units I use with my half-track, and the DBX on my TSR-8 and 246.
That being said, there are people that don’t like using NR of any kind. Ok for 2” 16-track and even ½” 8-track depending on the dynamics of the music. But if you want your background hiss dead quite NR is the cure.
The home/project studio trend with 16 on ½” as the standard would not have been possible without NR… and multi-track cassette, forget about it.
