3
32-20-Blues
New member
Yep, that's it. Nice sounding little steel. I'd start there, if I were you.
Btw, they appear on ebay all the time for a buy it now price of 50 dollars. They're made under Jager/Rogue/Galveston names now.
Yep, that's it. Nice sounding little steel. I'd start there, if I were you.
Btw, they appear on ebay all the time for a buy it now price of 50 dollars. They're made under Jager/Rogue/Galveston names now.
WhiteStrat
Don't stare at the eye.
Yep, that's what I thought. I think I will start there. Then I'm sure I'll build one, too!
(you're right antichef)I'll post back with some results after I get my hands on one!
antichef
pornk rock
Good then -- you'll need a slide, too, of course -- solid steel, not hollow like you'd put on your finger to use on a strat, of course, of course.
You'll see them with contoured sides and a flat top, and also more bullet or lipstick case shaped -- it's the latter that I find easier to use at this point, because I have to roll it around some to go from a horizontal to a diagonal chord. I'm still learning (maybe that's bad technique) and things could change -- just thought I'd throw that in for what it's worth. I found that I could only get the contoured one at the local guitar shop - I got some round ones off ebay, but it looks like mf sells them:
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Dunlop-Stainless-Steel-Pro-Tonebar?sku=425257
and for reference purposes -- here's what I mean by the contoured type (the picture has it upside down):
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Golden-Gate-Stevens-Steel-Bar-for-Resonator?sku=421090
I'm sure there's better terminology to use here.
You'll see them with contoured sides and a flat top, and also more bullet or lipstick case shaped -- it's the latter that I find easier to use at this point, because I have to roll it around some to go from a horizontal to a diagonal chord. I'm still learning (maybe that's bad technique) and things could change -- just thought I'd throw that in for what it's worth. I found that I could only get the contoured one at the local guitar shop - I got some round ones off ebay, but it looks like mf sells them:
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Dunlop-Stainless-Steel-Pro-Tonebar?sku=425257
and for reference purposes -- here's what I mean by the contoured type (the picture has it upside down):
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Golden-Gate-Stevens-Steel-Bar-for-Resonator?sku=421090
I'm sure there's better terminology to use here.
lpdeluxe
The Precision Bass Guy
I strongly recommend the bullet nose steel.
The Stevens feels more natural at first, but you pay a price in maneuverability. I used a Stevens steel for years with my Dobro, but when I got a pedal steel and tried out a bullet nose steel, I couldn't go back.
The bullet nose promotes clean, fast playing and allows moves that don't work on the Stevens, such as diving into a note from above or easing into a note from the side, as when you are changing strings in the middle of a lick. Try those with a Stevens, and you'll snag the sharp edge of the steel on the string.
The Stevens was made for guys who stand up with the Dobro hanging from a strap, and I guess they need more to hang onto than the bullet nose offers.
The Stevens feels more natural at first, but you pay a price in maneuverability. I used a Stevens steel for years with my Dobro, but when I got a pedal steel and tried out a bullet nose steel, I couldn't go back.
The bullet nose promotes clean, fast playing and allows moves that don't work on the Stevens, such as diving into a note from above or easing into a note from the side, as when you are changing strings in the middle of a lick. Try those with a Stevens, and you'll snag the sharp edge of the steel on the string.
The Stevens was made for guys who stand up with the Dobro hanging from a strap, and I guess they need more to hang onto than the bullet nose offers.