Dear Rick As many of the new members I’m doing the things as best as I can, I had to pour new concrete because the old concrete was not complete flat,
Thats what I figured. I was just curious. Usually, if you float a floor, the walls should be built on TOP of the subflooring sheithing of the floating floor, and then a ceiling either built on top of these walls, or suspended from the existing ceiling via RSIC clips or Resiliant Channel, BETWEEN the new walls but not touching. Every gap and joint in the drywall should be caulked BEFORE joint compound/tape is applied. Although, at this point, its rediculous for me to suggest anything as I don't know how far you have progressed since these pictures were taken. No matter, the plan is cast in stone now it looks like.
Let us know how the isolation (transmission loss) between rooms works out. One thing I just learned. Read this for your doors. Very important lesson
http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=2780
This thread is from Brian Dayton. He is a very astute professional in the world of acoustics. He runs acoustical lab tests on building assembies, because he works for a company the manufactures GREEN GLUE. Ever heard of it? If not, let me know and I will post a link Green Glue is probably the only product on the planet that works to laminate layers of drywall with for increased Transmission Loss performance. It works wonders. Which, btw, if you HAVE'NT finished drywalling let me know. Since you have NOT DECOUPLED your wall framing assemblies(I don't see any decoupling), the only thing I can suggest at this point(IF YOU SUSPECT YOUR ISOLATION GOAL ISN"T GOING TO BE UP TO PAR)is adding one or more layers using GREEN GLUE .However, that may be moot at this point, I don't know. Anyway, no matter, your project will STILL achieve more than what was existing. I hope you have a ball in there(fun)!!! Looks great so far as far as partitioning space is concerned.
First off, I am certainly NOT an expert, but here is one thing I DO suggest. In regards to your 12x12 room, I don't know what you are doing to treat this room, but square rooms are notorious for creating difficult modal response and standing wave formation at frequencies related to wavelengths proportionate to the distance between paralell boundarys, and since this room is a square(same dimension), then these resonances form between two opposing planes which further reinforces these peaks and nulls, . Since room modes terminate in the corners(ALL), to counteract these modal resonances(low frequencies), ABSORPTION, via whats known as SUPER CHUNKS should be used in ALL WALL/WALL and WALL/CEILING intersections. If you've never heard of Superchunks, give me a holla or do a search. There is tons of info here in the archives. I simply don't have time to go over it again although here is a link...
http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=535
As to standing waves between paralell walls,patches of broadband absorption
on opposing walls will not only help reduce them significantly, but offer a second effect...DIFFUSION
And given the pattern/thickness of these absorbedrs, you'll get even MORE absoption via the EDGE EFFECT. In otherwords, imagine a checkerboard where one color is your wall, and the other color is absorption patches(rigid fiberglass or rockwool). At the boundarys between absorption media and the wall, diffraction occurs, of which absorption occurs as a byproduct of this phenomena. Diffraction is still not well understood, especially by me, but I think you get the gist. It has been proven in a lab though. Anyway, the link site will tell you anything you want to know about acoustics. Good luck with the isolation and keep us up to date on your progress.
fitZ