ID This Bridge...

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ez_willis

ez_willis

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I have a question about it, but I need to know what kind it is first. Some type of Tune-O-Matic?
 

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I'm not sure but I have an old Teisco (late 60s) that has one that looks very similar. Is the lower (wood) part free on yours? Mine just sits on the body.
 
Its an standard archtop floating bridge with hight adjuster wheels and a tun-o-matic on top.

See Stewmac for a description of various archtop bridges.

Archtop bridges
 
I'm not sure but I have an old Teisco (late 60s) that has one that looks very similar. Is the lower (wood) part free on yours? Mine just sits on the body.

Yes, it floats. I usually replace one string at a time, so I had no idea until last night when I took them all off to clean it up, and it fell off. :eek: :D

My question is: There's a small wire that holds the intonating screws in place. It's rattling, and IT MUST BE STOPPED!!

Does that wire serve any other purpose? Can I just wedge something in there to keep it from vibrating?
 
no other purpose ..... it just keeps the screws and saddles from falling off if there's no string on them. You could wedge something in there or you could bend that spring so it would hold itself in place more firmly or you could even remove it, which I did on one of my early Pauls although then every time you changed strings you'd curse and wail about the saddles falling off.
 
no other purpose ..... it just keeps the screws and saddles from falling off if there's no string on them. You could wedge something in there or you could bend that spring so it would hold itself in place more firmly or you could even remove it, which I did on one of my early Pauls although then every time you changed strings you'd curse and wail about the saddles falling off.

I had the same problem on my Les Paul. I pulled the spring wire out and bent it so it would sit more firmly on the screws, and put it back on. Prob solved.
 
Its an standard archtop floating bridge with hight adjuster wheels and a tun-o-matic on top.

See Stewmac for a description of various archtop bridges.

Archtop bridges

Do you suppose those are decent bridges? I am (as mentioned above) looking to replace my fixed-intonation, adjustable height archtop bridge with a T-O-M, and the price is right :)
 
Do you suppose those are decent bridges? I am (as mentioned above) looking to replace my fixed-intonation, adjustable height archtop bridge with a T-O-M, and the price is right :)

You going to sacrifice quite a bit of tone and harmonic attack if you switch from a solid wood bridge to one with a lump of die cast metal on top. I would investigate why you have an issue with the intonation first. Is that G string intonation wrong even with new strings? Does it get worse as the strings wear? The bridge on a archtop is critical to the acoustic tone so any change is potentially significant for better or worse.

A couple of important considerations with archtop bridges for you. The foot of the bridge should make perfect contact with the top all along its length. The angle should be at 90 degrees in front of the bridge and the top. The bridge does not have to sit parallel to the nut it can and often needs a little relief to set the intonation correctly. The normal centre is between the "nicks" of the f holes if it has them.

One of the advantages of archtop floating bridges is that you can swap them out without too much trouble. Be careful of the finish if you do swap them about. If you interested in trying out a few I can let you have some more in depth tips on correct fitting.
 
You going to sacrifice quite a bit of tone and harmonic attack if you switch from a solid wood bridge to one with a lump of die cast metal on top. I would investigate why you have an issue with the intonation first. Is that G string intonation wrong even with new strings? Does it get worse as the strings wear? The bridge on a archtop is critical to the acoustic tone so any change is potentially significant for better or worse.

A couple of important considerations with archtop bridges for you. The foot of the bridge should make perfect contact with the top all along its length. The angle should be at 90 degrees in front of the bridge and the top. The bridge does not have to sit parallel to the nut it can and often needs a little relief to set the intonation correctly. The normal centre is between the "nicks" of the f holes if it has them.

One of the advantages of archtop floating bridges is that you can swap them out without too much trouble. Be careful of the finish if you do swap them about. If you interested in trying out a few I can let you have some more in depth tips on correct fitting.

Thanks for the info - if you'd like to elaborate, feel free to PM me or post here again - I can always use the advice. Just to clarify, the bridge I have now does have a solid wood piece for the string guides, but since it is adjustable-height, there are two metal thumb wheels that support the bridge above the feet that actually touch the top of the guitar. You probably already would have guessed this, but I thought I would clarify.

I may very well get the thing set up by a local Heritage dealer again. It cost about 50 bucks, but the intonation seemed to be better after they did it correctly. I may just be using a killer combination of old strings and an improperly set bridge.
 
My question is: There's a small wire that holds the intonating screws in place. It's rattling, and IT MUST BE STOPPED!!

Does that wire serve any other purpose? Can I just wedge something in there to keep it from vibrating?

Put a drop or 2 of Elmer's glue on them. If you need to adjust the intonation the glue will just peel off.
 
Funny thing about this story is, I was trying to adjust the intonation on the B string, but the saddle was backed all the way up and it was still out.

I almost posted a question of how to fix that problem, or even if it were possible to fix, but decided to replace the strings and give it another try. That's when the whole thing fell off. :D
 
Another question. On the saddle itself, it's angled on one side. One the top three strings they slope towards the neck, on the bottom three strings, they slope towards the bridge.

Why?


Did I explain that coherently?
 
because they usually need the most adjustment in that direction for those strings. So the flat side of the saddle will get the furthest forward or rearward depending on which way it's turned.
 
because they usually need the most adjustment in that direction for those strings. So the flat side of the saddle will get the furthest forward or rearward depending on which way it's turned.

You made that up.
 
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