peritus
The not fountain head
http://ultravnc.sourceforge.net/ + Laptop
cincy_kid
Active member
Treeline said:Here's a way you can run things from a vocal booth and avoid the keyboard / extension cord thing. The unit works remotely and is not limited to line of sight. So you could keep the vocal booth area separate and still control things from within it.
Frontier TranzPort It's available for about $200.
[Edit]: I note CincyKid beat me to it...
hehe, yea saw that
cincy_kid
Active member
peritus said:
ooh cool. Now if I only had a laptop
Thik the transport is the cheaper way to go for me. I may not even need it tho if i can't figure out my setup. The boss said "No tearing down walls!....or building them for that matter.." So I guess thats out, looking for some more suggestions hehe
JeffLancaster
New member
You just have to let her know who the real boss is, then get the construction underway 
pandamonk
Well-known member
Sorry been away at a folk festival. Other 2 things are computer monitors. It isn't necessary but it would mean it is more semetrical, ie better acoustically.cincy_kid said:heya Panda, we meet again!
Thanks for the reply.
Is the extra countertop install necessary? It was a pain hehe. I like your placement of absorbers however and even the monitor placement. Whats the other 2 things on the front counter?
Thanks again
pandamonk
Well-known member
you're right, either miing board, or a desk for a mixer.peritus said:
cincy_kid
Active member
Well, I am for sure getting the space, but I am not going to be able to do any major construction (tearing down or moving walls), so I need to figure out a plan B
Also, there are 3 windows in the office space (about 1.5' x 3'). do I just put some absorbers over them or leave them be or is there a better solution for windows?
I am still wondering the answer on why it would be better to mix in the larger room and track in the smaller one if anyone can shed some light.
Thanks again everyone ~
Also, there are 3 windows in the office space (about 1.5' x 3'). do I just put some absorbers over them or leave them be or is there a better solution for windows?
I am still wondering the answer on why it would be better to mix in the larger room and track in the smaller one if anyone can shed some light.
Thanks again everyone ~
cincy_kid
Active member
Also, I just had another idea and wanted to get some feedback on it. If you look at my original diagram where Peritus and Panda added the wall to the office space making it square instead of odd shaped here:
Since I am not going to tackle the construction thing yet at this satge of the game, I was thinking of an alternative to getting the square room still hence providing better acoustics. You see in the diagram where the wall is suggested to be? It just so happens that exact area has duct work or something that lowers the ceiling about a foot for the whole width of the room. So, what if I make those absorption panels like dbybooth did in this thread here, which is the same as I made also, except mine were 4' long instead of 8' long. Then, take those panels and lean them against the lowered part of the ceiling touching each other. This way it would be like a wall but made out of 703 or other rigid fiberglass material?
My 2 initial questions about doing this would be:
1) Would that be better/worse or the same effect as far as making a wall there for the acoustics value?
2) Since the 8' panels will be a little tall for the room, they will have to be at a slant, where the bottom of the panels will be closer to my desk and the top of the panels will be leaning towards the closet space. Is that a benefit or a problem or makes no difference?
Man I am kind of excited now if this will work. Then I will accomplish the results of the wall, plus have a removable section to move when its not being used.
Advice??!!
Since I am not going to tackle the construction thing yet at this satge of the game, I was thinking of an alternative to getting the square room still hence providing better acoustics. You see in the diagram where the wall is suggested to be? It just so happens that exact area has duct work or something that lowers the ceiling about a foot for the whole width of the room. So, what if I make those absorption panels like dbybooth did in this thread here, which is the same as I made also, except mine were 4' long instead of 8' long. Then, take those panels and lean them against the lowered part of the ceiling touching each other. This way it would be like a wall but made out of 703 or other rigid fiberglass material?
My 2 initial questions about doing this would be:
1) Would that be better/worse or the same effect as far as making a wall there for the acoustics value?
2) Since the 8' panels will be a little tall for the room, they will have to be at a slant, where the bottom of the panels will be closer to my desk and the top of the panels will be leaning towards the closet space. Is that a benefit or a problem or makes no difference?
Man I am kind of excited now if this will work. Then I will accomplish the results of the wall, plus have a removable section to move when its not being used.
Advice??!!
peritus
The not fountain head
take a picture.. .. I wanna see...
.. I wanna see...
JeffLancaster
New member
Hey Cincy, why do the panels HAVE to be 8'? Can't you just make them the height you need so they don't have to slant? Also, how about somehow designing them as interlocking panels with MDF on the back - seems like that should help cut sound transmission to some extent (although they'd be heavy panels). For the windows, how about making gasketed plugs out of MDF? Also, if you have a hollow door leading into the room, perhaps you could consider replacing it with a solid one, with "weatherstripping".
peritus
The not fountain head
JeffLancaster said:
Hmm... I wonder what kinda hinges you could use to get them to swing?
cincy_kid
Active member
peritus said:take a picture..
Ok, will do tonight I promise
cincy_kid
Active member
JeffLancaster said:
well the 703 is in 2x4 sheets and I would rather not mess with cutting them. Even though I will have burlap over them, I dont like the fact that floating particles could exist more than they already are
JeffLancaster said:
Yea, actually thought about putting a little sliding rail on the duct thingy coming down and hanging the panels from it so I could slide them open and shut with somethig on the back like mdf or something...hrm...
JeffLancaster said:
I have no idea what you mean here. Could you elaborate?
JeffLancaster said:
Not worried about soundproofing and wont mess with the door for now but thx for the suggestion
Keep those ideas coming hehe
peritus
The not fountain head
Okay.. Ya ever see bifold doors... like in a closet?
Like these:
How about:
Create four identical (floor to "duct" ceiling height) panels of fabric 703.... Build a frame for them out of 1x4 or somethin... (Cut the 703 outside..
)
Okay.. Use parts from here, for the track, etc.:
http://www.johnsonhardware.com/1700sm.htm
Hmm... make sure you leave room to fold...
I wouldn't put any mdf on the back.. You want the sound to go in to the "trap", bounce off the wall and return, attenuated....
As Ethan describes:
"There are a number of ways to create a bass trap. The simplest and least expensive is to install a large amount of thick rigid fiberglass, spacing it well away from the wall or ceiling. As noted earlier, 705-FRK that is four inches thick and spaced 16 inches away from the wall can be quite effective to frequencies below 125 Hz. But many rooms have severe problems far below 125 Hz and losing twenty inches all around the room for thick fiberglass and a large air space is unacceptable to most studio owners and audiophiles. Fortunately, more efficient bass trap designs are available that are much smaller. However, studios on a tight budget can apply rigid fiberglass in the room corners as shown in Figure 3a and lose only the small amount of space in the corners. Since bass builds up the most in the corners of a room, this is an ideal location for any bass trap. Top
"
Just a thought.. Plus I think it'd be an attractive-looking option...
Like these:
How about:
Create four identical (floor to "duct" ceiling height) panels of fabric 703.... Build a frame for them out of 1x4 or somethin... (Cut the 703 outside..
)Okay.. Use parts from here, for the track, etc.:
http://www.johnsonhardware.com/1700sm.htm
Hmm... make sure you leave room to fold...
I wouldn't put any mdf on the back.. You want the sound to go in to the "trap", bounce off the wall and return, attenuated....
As Ethan describes:
"There are a number of ways to create a bass trap. The simplest and least expensive is to install a large amount of thick rigid fiberglass, spacing it well away from the wall or ceiling. As noted earlier, 705-FRK that is four inches thick and spaced 16 inches away from the wall can be quite effective to frequencies below 125 Hz. But many rooms have severe problems far below 125 Hz and losing twenty inches all around the room for thick fiberglass and a large air space is unacceptable to most studio owners and audiophiles. Fortunately, more efficient bass trap designs are available that are much smaller. However, studios on a tight budget can apply rigid fiberglass in the room corners as shown in Figure 3a and lose only the small amount of space in the corners. Since bass builds up the most in the corners of a room, this is an ideal location for any bass trap. Top
"
Just a thought.. Plus I think it'd be an attractive-looking option...
Last edited:
peritus
The not fountain head
ALA:
peritus
The not fountain head
peritus
The not fountain head
What's the best way to cut 703?
https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=128732
https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=128732
peritus
The not fountain head
Finally found the thread I was looking for...
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4581
Ethan:
"You do not want a rigid back because that will reflect the waves and negate the benefit of an air space. Homasote is pretty flimsy, so that might be okay. "
Cheers
Edit: oh.. and .. make the folding doors out of 705 of you can.. it makes more sense (thickness, etc)...
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4581
Ethan:
"You do not want a rigid back because that will reflect the waves and negate the benefit of an air space. Homasote is pretty flimsy, so that might be okay. "
Cheers
Edit: oh.. and .. make the folding doors out of 705 of you can.. it makes more sense (thickness, etc)...
JeffLancaster
New member
peritus said:
This is true, I only suggested the interlocking MDF stuff as a way to help isolate the room...but if he's only worried about acoustics and not soundproofing, your idea looks really cool.
You could cut 3/4" MDF to fit either inside or over the window frames, with weatherstripping to ask as a gasket when it is pressed into place. You would need some sort of latches that keep the plugs in place with the weatherstipping tightly compressed. But again, this is only necessary if you're trying to soundproof the room. Personally, I like to be able to record without capturing the sounds of the idiots out there squealing their tires up and down the street, but that's just mecincy_kid said:
You must not have any little kids screaming and yelling in the hall, or a wife who gets upset if you make noise late at nightcincy_kid said:
cincy_kid
Active member
peritus said:Okay.. Ya ever see bifold doors... like in a closet?
Like these:
How about:
Create four identical (floor to "duct" ceiling height) panels of fabric 703.... Build a frame for them out of 1x4 or somethin... (Cut the 703 outside..
Okay.. Use parts from here, for the track, etc.:
http://www.johnsonhardware.com/1700sm.htm
Hmm... make sure you leave room to fold...
I wouldn't put any mdf on the back.. You want the sound to go in to the "trap", bounce off the wall and return, attenuated....
As Ethan describes:
"There are a number of ways to create a bass trap. The simplest and least expensive is to install a large amount of thick rigid fiberglass, spacing it well away from the wall or ceiling. As noted earlier, 705-FRK that is four inches thick and spaced 16 inches away from the wall can be quite effective to frequencies below 125 Hz. But many rooms have severe problems far below 125 Hz and losing twenty inches all around the room for thick fiberglass and a large air space is unacceptable to most studio owners and audiophiles. Fortunately, more efficient bass trap designs are available that are much smaller. However, studios on a tight budget can apply rigid fiberglass in the room corners as shown in Figure 3a and lose only the small amount of space in the corners. Since bass builds up the most in the corners of a room, this is an ideal location for any bass trap. Top
"
Just a thought.. Plus I think it'd be an attractive-looking option...
Sweet idea man!!!!!! I think this is the ticket!
Thanks for all the darn posts Peritus, lol, you rock!