Help with a Tascam 38 Reel to Reel machine

  • Thread starter Thread starter hanko
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hanko

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Hi everyone. This is my first post, so please forgive me if I am posting in the wrong area, or for any other slight that I may inadvertently display.

I was wondering if someone could help me out with a problem I am having with my Tascam 38. I have had it opened up, closed back up, opened up again, closed back up, etc. many times, trying to get it up to task. I have cleaned the motors, changed the capstan belt, and I had it recording and playing back and sounding quite good. Of course, I had to go inside one more time for something, and when I got it back together, I ended up losing my ff and rewind (nothing happens when I hit either button, even with no tape on it and the brake slacked off). In this time, everything else on the transport still worked. Upon trying to find the problem, I ended up losing my whole transport. When I hit any button...nothing. No sound, no nothing.

Lastly, when I put the face plate back on the last time before it all stopped working, I though I saw something arc at the wiring harness connection to the transport when I plugged it in.

So, I was wondering if someone else has had a similar experience and could maybe point me in the right direction for a fix. Also, there are 10 fuses on a PCB on the back of the machine, all of which are fine, or at least look fine.

I hope I was thorough enough in my explanation. I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks for your time!!
 
With the front cover off, do the transport switches work if you press them directly with a pencil as apposed to the exterior plastic push buttons? If so, it could just be a re-fit issue of the button caps not making proper contact with the switches below. Check with the exploded view diagram of the service manual to see if your deck is missing any parts in that area, spacers, pads, etc.

Also, have you tried working the transport from the remote control, if you have one, that is? RC-71

Cheers! :)
 
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I'd be dubious that anything arc'd when it was plugged in, as you should have the unit turned off and unplugged whenever you go under the covers, or risk some serious shock hazards. If it is unplugged already, perhaps static electricity could cause arcing and problems, but I'd think that would be less likely.

Nonetheless, I'd check all fuses with a DVM ohm meter, no matter how they looked. I've seen bad fuses that appeared good on visual inspection.

The button panel is an assembly that plugs and unplugs to the rest of the unit, but the button caps do not separate from the button switches in general maintenance, or from removing the front cover. To separate the button caps from the button switches would require disassembly of that specific part. However, using a RC-71 remote would bypass the front button panel as a verification.

Always verify the connectors you've been unplugging go back together properly and not reversed, as this could cause numerous unknown problems and possible failure modes that can't be predicted readily on a forum.

Ask a member named sweetbeats about the unpredictable failures that can be caused by plugging connectors incorrectly.

:spank::eek:;)
 
Thanks for the help guys. I don't have a remote, but I checked for continuity from the switches solder joints to where the wiring harness plugs into the main board, and it's all good. As well, the 10 fuses on the main board are all good. I'm not sure if there are any other fuses that I can't see.

Yeah, I thought it was weird that the arc happened with the unit unplugged too. Maybe it was static electricity, or maybe I am seeing things, due to too much time with my head in this thing.

Oh, and I just powered the unit on again after poking around a bit with a multimeter and I appear to have lost my counter display. Shit, what have I done? I am a clumsy bastard, but I take care with things like this (that is not to say it's not possible that I messed something up).

One more thing; The edit button seems to be stuck in. I don't think it is stick on, because the capstan still stops spinning when it drops. Might this have anything to do with the transport problems? I can't imagine it having anything to do with the counter display though.

I got the unit and two reels of Ampex 456 tape (dated 1972) for $40, so I am not out much if it doesn't happen, but I had it recording and playing and sounding decent, so I think I am close to getting it running. If it weren't for these new problems.

Again, all the help is muuuuch appreciated. You guys are awesome!!
 
Hate to say it but, considering you got the machine for such a low price, I'd suggest just handing the machine over to a local repair shop that has experience with the 30 series decks and let them fix it up for you. And once fixed up, don't touch it! :D

Cheers! :)
 
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The Edit button will disable the right reel motor.
:spank::eek:;)
 
Haha, thanks Ghost. I will heed your advice, but I have to try it on my own first (well, not quite my own, with the help of the crew here).
 
Yeah, I thought that may have something to do with it, but both motors still worked when the edit button was stuck where it is now.

Thanks Reel Person, I will keep checking for bad solder joints, and try not to arse it up any more. By the way, does anyone know if there are any more fuses I may be missing?
 
Okay, turns out it was a blown fuse causing the meter lights and the counter display to die. Now back to the transport controls...
 
I still have the problem with the transport controls not working. I wonder why the ff and rew went first, then the rest of them went after. Again, any help is really appreciated. I would love to get this thing working again.

Thanks!!
 
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