Group Buy Interest?

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Well I guess it's all about expectations. I expected worse... You expected better...

You nailed it!! :D:D

You're really making me wish I'd gotten a 70 now........ :mad:

Did you get a 6802T? I found them a little beefier and not as thin up top as the 1200... Making me wish I'd got two of those.

LOL. What a micslut I am.....:D
 
Did you get a 6802T? I found them a little beefier and not as thin up top as the 1200... Making me wish I'd got two of those.

I didn't go for the 6802T. It was hard choosing mics based solely on Chance's description of them unless you could find a brand name counterpart for it. I chose the 1200 because of all of the literature available about modding it's brand name counterparts. A nice set of matched tubes is going to be first, then a recapping/wiring... Then possibly some Peluso capsules. Over at Prodigy-Pro the 6802 seems to be catching up in the mod dept, tho.

Ah, the fun begins...
 
I just tried out my ACM3 with an 81 on trumpet. I have a buzzing 81 so I couldn't use it with the EQ; so this test was only the preamp with EQ bypassed.

The ACM3 absolutely kills on trumpet. This is the sound that I always wanted from my horn. I'm absolutely tickled to death. Now if I was just a better player..... BTW - the label side sounds much fuller/richer than the non-label side. However, the label side is negative and the non-label side is positive. I feel like the label side is the "front", but you have to flip the phase.

The 81 was excellent in this situaiton. It's very quiet, easily had plenty of clean gain for the ribbon. Sounds nice a full, rich in the botton.
 
The 81 was excellent in this situaiton. It's very quiet, easily had plenty of clean gain for the ribbon. Sounds nice a full, rich in the botton.

Chris, what other preamps do you own? It'll give us a feel for comparison.
 
I just tried out my ACM3 with an 81 on trumpet. I have a buzzing 81 so I couldn't use it with the EQ; so this test was only the preamp with EQ bypassed.

The ACM3 absolutely kills on trumpet. This is the sound that I always wanted from my horn. I'm absolutely tickled to death. Now if I was just a better player..... BTW - the label side sounds much fuller/richer than the non-label side. However, the label side is negative and the non-label side is positive. I feel like the label side is the "front", but you have to flip the phase.

The 81 was excellent in this situaiton. It's very quiet, easily had plenty of clean gain for the ribbon. Sounds nice a full, rich in the botton.

Chris, out of the 7 ribbons I got on the GB, the label side was positive (in phase) on all my ribbons except ONE ACM2. I'd suggest everyone check the phase on their ribbons. It seems phase is a relative term for the Chinese.
 
Chris, out of the 7 ribbons I got on the GB, the label side was positive (in phase) on all my ribbons except ONE ACM2. I'd suggest everyone check the phase on their ribbons. It seems phase is a relative term for the Chinese.

Would you be able to elaborate on your comment for those of us who are a bit more newbish? How do you check the phase on the ribbon mic? Do you mean checking which side of the mic sounds "better"?
 
Would you be able to elaborate on your comment for those of us who are a bit more newbish? How do you check the phase on the ribbon mic? Do you mean checking which side of the mic sounds "better"?

Being in or out of phase technically refers to time delay. If you have a sine wave that beats at 60 Hz (60 times a second) and you shift it 1/120th of a second, that's 180 degrees out of phase because it is half of a wave (lie 180 degrees is half of a circle). If you were to add that phase reversed signal to the original signal, when the original signal went up, the delayed signal would go down, and they would cancel each other out perfectly.

In practice, however, phase reversal usually refers to actually flipping the signal upside down rather than delaying it half a wavelength. In that context, it refers to whether a positive impulse in the physical world (air moving towards the diaphragm or ribbon) translates to a positive impulse electrically or a negative impulse. It should translate positive to positive, negative to negative. If the signal is phase reversed, positive physical impulses translate to negative electrical impulses.

With a microphone, signals going into the front of the mic should be in phase, while signals going into the back should be largely out of phase. (I say largely because with cardioid mics, things are kind of funky, and with an omni capsule, I believe that they are in phase from every angle.) If the front of a mic is wired out of phase, this basically means that at some point between the ribbon motor and the XLR connector, the two signal wires have gotten reversed. No big deal.

As for testing, if you sing into it and your voice sounds hollow and lacks all manner of bass response, you're probably out of phase.

Alternatively, clap your hands or lightly tap the front side of the mic. The initial impulse should be the strongest impulse, and it should be predominantly picked up off the side of the mic nearest you. Compare the peaks. The highest peaks should be on the positive (top) side in your DAW, if memory serves. In any case, all your mics should peak highest on the same side....
 
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Would you be able to elaborate on your comment for those of us who are a bit more newbish? How do you check the phase on the ribbon mic? Do you mean checking which side of the mic sounds "better"?

These ribbons are all Fig8 patterns and pick up (relatively) equally from both sides, although there is an "in phase" side and an "out of phase" side. Given any situation, either might be preferable for the sound. Neither is "right or wrong" - UNLESS you're using a pair in stereo - such as a blumlein pattern. This is where you can get into trouble if one is out of phase. So....best to know the phase of each mic. Theoretically (on almost 99.99% of manufacturers) "in phase" is at the logo or front of the mic. This is how the TnC mics should be. Not all are correct though, as is evidenced by Chris's comments and my experience as well.

To find out the phase relationship of the mic.....

Patch the mic into a pre and into your DAW. Snap your fingers on one side of the ribbon and then on the other side of the ribbon. Go to the waveform and take a look at it. One of the waveforms on the snap will start by going UP at the initial start of the visual waveform, and one will go DOWN. Up is in phase, Down is out of phase. The Up going waveform should be on the snap to the front of the mic where the logo is. 6 out of 7 were that way on my mics. One was backwards. Hope that makes sense. It's late and it was a Loooooonnnng day.....:D

FYI, I kind of like the BACK (out of phase) side of the ACM4 better. At least that was my initial response to listening to it.....

bp
 
Wait wait wait. There is some misinformation going around here.

1. If your mic sounds hollow and with no bass response, there is something WAY more wrong with your mic than phase. An out of phase mic will sound EXACTLY like an in phase mic on it's own.

2. Judging phase by looking at a DAW waveform isn't the best way either.

3. Phase IS a relative term. One signal cannot be out of phase with itself. It can only be called out of phase when compared to another signal. These technical descriptions of phase are great, but all we are talking about here is that on some GB mics in the past, pins 2 and 3 have been essentially switched on their xlr connector. What we are talking about is POLARITY, not really phase.

To test:

Set up a control mic (I'm using a 414) and one of your new ribbons so that their elements are so close they are touching. Snap your fingers equaldistantly from both elements. Listen back with both mic panned center and relatively equal in gain. If one mic soloed sounds fine, but both together sound thin and weird, you've got a phase problem. If the visual waveform of one is zigging while the other is zagging, you've got a phase problem.

So if it is only relative, why does phase matter? Using one mic by itself, it doesn't. The minute you start interfacing that mic with other mics in your collection, like in a 12 mic drum setup, that's when trouble starts.
 
1. If your mic sounds hollow and with no bass response, there is something WAY more wrong with your mic than phase. An out of phase mic will sound EXACTLY like an in phase mic on it's own.

i think you misunderstood. if you use direct monitoring and cans your voice will sound different whether the mic is positive oder negative polarity.
 
i think you misunderstood. if you use direct monitoring and cans your voice will sound different whether the mic is positive oder negative polarity.

No it most certainly will not. Don't believe me? Plug in any mic and flip the phase switch (polarity) on your preamp.
 
Wait wait wait. There is some misinformation going around here.

1. If your mic sounds hollow and with no bass response, there is something WAY more wrong with your mic than phase. An out of phase mic will sound EXACTLY like an in phase mic on it's own.

When playing back, yes. While recording through headphones, no. Sorry. I should have been more clear there. When the mic polarity is reversed, low frequency sounds from the headphones perceptually cancel out the live sound from your voice through the air instead of augmenting it. The result is that the low frequencies disappear. Don't believe me? Try singing into the back of a figure-8 mic while listening through headphones. It is a very eye-opening (or ear-opening) experience. They sound very different while recording, but are almost indistinguishable when played back later.


3. Phase IS a relative term. One signal cannot be out of phase with itself. It can only be called out of phase when compared to another signal. These technical descriptions of phase are great, but all we are talking about here is that on some GB mics in the past, pins 2 and 3 have been essentially switched on their xlr connector. What we are talking about is POLARITY, not really phase.

You're (pedantically) right. We should avoid abusing the term "phase" when it comes to audio signals. That said, the term "out of phase" or "phase reversed" or "180 degrees out of phase" is very commonly abused to mean reversed polarity to such a degree that it is in more common usage than the term "polarity". Both terms are technically correct, but only a polarity-reversed signal can be 180 degrees out of phase for every frequency of input, so polarity-reversed is more precise about the mechanism that causes the phasing.
 
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Good stuff. I agree with you for the most part, but have a couple of comments.


Wait wait wait. There is some misinformation going around here.

Of course it's the internet....:D

1. If your mic sounds hollow and with no bass response, there is something WAY more wrong with your mic than phase. An out of phase mic will sound EXACTLY like an in phase mic on it's own.

I agree, but not with the exactly part. And I understand what dgatwood was trying to say, although like you, I don't think that's the best judge of it. If it's a Fig8 pattern mic, it MAY very well sound different from the back. Case in point, some of the ACM ribbons DO sound different from the back side. One I actually like BETTER from the back side. If you are saying "phase" from an electronic point of view, I'd tend to agree with you, although I have one engineer friend who can spookily hear whether the monitors are pushing or pulling air on the first excursion. He'll check and invariably - he's right. I used to always try to trick him up by occationally swapping + and - on BOTH speakers to see if he'd notice. He did. I'm not talking two speakers out of phase with each other, but whether both are "in phase" or "out of phase". BTW, I may unfortunately be confusing phase with polarity. I've always refered to it as phase for 20+ years, and I think most of us do as there is an "out of phase" switch on much of the gear we use. Technically we may be wrong in using that term.

2. Judging phase by looking at a DAW waveform isn't the best way either.

Here's where I disagree with you. If you can see a positive going waveform and a negative going waveform, there is no second guessing and wondering. It's really obvious. No need to don headphones or set up another "control" mic that may or may not be in phase itself.

3. Phase IS a relative term. One signal cannot be out of phase with itself. It can only be called out of phase when compared to another signal. These technical descriptions of phase are great, but all we are talking about here is that on some GB mics in the past, pins 2 and 3 have been essentially switched on their xlr connector. What we are talking about is POLARITY, not really phase.

Cool. I agree. You say potAtoe. I say potahtoe

To test:

Set up a control mic (I'm using a 414) and one of your new ribbons so that their elements are so close they are touching. Snap your fingers equaldistantly from both elements. Listen back with both mic panned center and relatively equal in gain. If one mic soloed sounds fine, but both together sound thin and weird, you've got a phase problem. If the visual waveform of one is zigging while the other is zagging, you've got a phase problem.

Soooooo, how do you know your control mic is in phase??? How do you know you have a cable that hasn't been miswired on the control mic? Are you sure your pre and patchbay are wired correctly?? While I agree with your premise, I still maintain that looking at the waveform is the most solid way of seeing (literally) what's going on. This becomes critically important if you move from studio to studio during a project and are not intimately familiar with their mics, cables, etc.

A secondary way we used to do it? (Very old school here) Take a sound source with a lot of "thump" like a kick drum. Put the mic and following chain into your recording device. Record a few kicks (or whatever). They should have a very transient nature. Now, flip one of your speakers on it's back. Put a dime on the woofer cone. Hit play. Reverse the speaker cable inputs. Hit play again. In one case the speaker will be "pushing" and will launch the coin. On the other it will be "pulling" and the coin will move, but not jump. Simple and effective. This is also a good way to make sure that both your speakers are in literal phase with the signal on tape or DAW - or perhaps I should say polarity.

So if it is only relative, why does phase matter? Using one mic by itself, it doesn't. The minute you start interfacing that mic with other mics in your collection, like in a 12 mic drum setup, that's when trouble starts.

I couldn't agree with you more on this one. One of the main reasons for bad sounding recordings. Know your phase! Or polarity! Or whatever you want to call it!!! :D:D


PS - to further complicate issues, sounds are not always 180 degrees out of phase. But that's a topic for another time, another thread.

Cheers,

bp
 
If it's a Fig8 pattern mic, it MAY very well sound different from the back. Case in point, some of the ACM ribbons DO sound different from the back side. One I actually like BETTER from the back side.

I whole heartedly agree. I would never argue that ribbon mics almost always sound different from front to back. There are many variables within the mic that could cause the polarity to be reversed. The capsule (or in the case of a ribbon the "motor") could be wired backwards. The motor could be installed backwards. The xlr could be wired backwards. Two wires could be switched on the transformer. The case may have just been put on backwards. An "out of phase chinese mic" may be an issue of front to back, but it may not be.

I guess what I was trying to say when clarifying the syntax of the word "phase" is that this is not an issue of time alignment or delay within the microphone. I don't want people who read this forum who don't have the 20+ years experience that we have to misunderstand what's happening in their microphones. I too call the ø button on my preamps the "phase" switch, rest assured. ;)

Soooooo, how do you know your control mic is in phase??? How do you know you have a cable that hasn't been miswired on the control mic? Are you sure your pre and patchbay are wired correctly?? While I agree with your premise, I still maintain that looking at the waveform is the most solid way of seeing (literally) what's going on. This becomes critically important if you move from studio to studio during a project and are not intimately familiar with their mics, cables, etc.

Every cable and patch point in my studio was built/soldered by me and thoroughly tested. My $10 Behringer cable tester may be a cheap piece of crap, but it does the job and not a single piece of gear or cable in my studio sees audio until it passes the cable tester. As for the mic (which of course can't be vouched for this way), I'm running on faith that my 414 is correct. AKG ain't steered me wrong yet and the chinese have. I have faith in every link in my studio with one exception: heaphones. I would never ever ever trust headphones to make a critical technical determination. That's just how I roll.

A secondary way we used to do it? (Very old school here) Take a sound source with a lot of "thump" like a kick drum. Put the mic and following chain into your recording device. Record a few kicks (or whatever). They should have a very transient nature. Now, flip one of your speakers on it's back. Put a dime on the woofer cone. Hit play. Reverse the speaker cable inputs. Hit play again. In one case the speaker will be "pushing" and will launch the coin. On the other it will be "pulling" and the coin will move, but not jump. Simple and effective. This is also a good way to make sure that both your speakers are in literal phase with the signal on tape or DAW - or perhaps I should say polarity.

Heheh... Haven't seen that one in a while. Here's the problem, depending on the signal you are using for your test, it may actually throw the coin higher when out of phase than it does when in phase because the driver pulls the coin all the way to the minus side before it then throws it positive thus throwing it twice as far. And also, by your own argument, how do you know your test signal is "in phase"?

Ah... The circular logic of phase troubleshooting... It's never ending! LOL :D
 
Ah... The circular logic of phase troubleshooting... It's never ending! LOL :D

Yep, I was just saying that to my wife the other day! :D

Okay seriously--great conversation. It's cool to peek in and learn!
 
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