Blue Jinn
Rider of the ARPocalypse
How do you all do it?
I need to calibrate my Tascam 38.
I need to calibrate my Tascam 38.
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
Man up...... 
T
The Ghost of FM
Banned
When I had my MS-16 mounted in its roll around cart, I had to remove everything above and below it in order to get enough room for my arms to get in there and hoist it out and also had to make the deck as horizontal as possible so that once the screws were removed, it wouldn't slide anywhere.
But basically, the reverse order of however you got it in there in the first place.
Cheers!
But basically, the reverse order of however you got it in there in the first place.
Cheers!
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
T
The Ghost of FM
Banned
Right....when you were a lot younger and it didn't feel as heavy!
I used to deliver and set up 36" Sony tube TV's. Those suckers were 205 pounds and invariably had to go up flights of stairs. A 38 is child's play compared to those pigs!
Cheers!
witzendoz
Senior Member
One of the reasons I have a dud, back, knee & shoulder (had an injection in it last week), is form moving loads of live and studio gear for nearly 40 years, the young folks of today with the lightweight gear available don't know how lucky they are.
My answer to the question, get someone to help you lift it out of the rack and don't do this stuff on your own like I did.
Alan.
My answer to the question, get someone to help you lift it out of the rack and don't do this stuff on your own like I did.
Alan.
gecko zzed
Grumpy Mod
put truck straps around the rack.
undo the holding screws
put foam on the floor
tip the rack onto its face
undo the straps
lift the rack up, leaving tascam behind on the foam
undo the holding screws
put foam on the floor
tip the rack onto its face
undo the straps
lift the rack up, leaving tascam behind on the foam
M
mdainsd
Member
I do the opposite. Ease the rack in question onto its back, then remove the mounting screws and remove the unit in question.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
This is ideologically what I do...and remove a component or two above or below the recorder so I can reach my hands in and grab the back of the unit after the screws are out.
---------- Update ----------
I used to deliver and set up 36" Sony tube TV's. Those suckers were 205 pounds and invariably had to go up flights of stairs. A 38 is child's play compared to those pigs!
Cheers!
I just carried a 110lb Ampex "portable" instrumentation recorder from the car and up the stairs...I only weigh about 20lbs more than it does. It was a *chore*.
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
Assuming the whole rack can be put on its back.....None of main can, they are too big and part of a larger rack unit.
I have my Fostex G-16 in a rack, same as my Otari 5050 2-track.....but I put the Fostex down on the very bottom, mainly because of its weight, and the Otari up above....though I don't need to remove the Fostex to calibrate it, same as the Otari. It's all done from the front, and while my racks are huge, they are on wheels, so I can roll them out from the wall and get into the back of either unit.
The couple of times I have moved the 75 lb Fostex....mmmmm....it was certainly a power-lift.
I have my Fostex G-16 in a rack, same as my Otari 5050 2-track.....but I put the Fostex down on the very bottom, mainly because of its weight, and the Otari up above....though I don't need to remove the Fostex to calibrate it, same as the Otari. It's all done from the front, and while my racks are huge, they are on wheels, so I can roll them out from the wall and get into the back of either unit.
The couple of times I have moved the 75 lb Fostex....mmmmm....it was certainly a power-lift.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Assuming the whole rack can be put on its back.....None of main can, they are too big and part of a larger rack unit.
I have my Fostex G-16 in a rack, same as my Otari 5050 2-track.....but I put the Fostex down on the very bottom, mainly because of its weight, and the Otari up above....though I don't need to remove the Fostex to calibrate it, same as the Otari. It's all done from the front, and while my racks are huge, they are on wheels, so I can roll them out from the wall and get into the back of either unit.
The couple of times I have moved the 75 lb Fostex....mmmmm....it was certainly a power-lift.
Oh that's a good point miro...those tall racks can make it prohibitive to tip them on their face or back, especially if the space is tight, not to mention the simple cumulative weight of the rack.
*Another handy trick:*
If the unit to be un-racked is in an upright rack and there is a space below the unit (or you can unload the space below the unit to be un-racked), then thread rack screws in the rack rails just below the device to be un-racked...it'll give the unit something to rest down on as you remove those last rack screws and save you the struggle of muscling the unit to keep it in place while turning the screwdriver. This works in reverse too...put the screws in the rack rails just under where the heavy unit is going to be racked, lift the unit up and onto those screws, then you can kind of tilt the unit to the left or right to get that first bottom screw in, and then tilt the other way to get the other bottom screw in. Its the bottom screws that are really doing the work anyway so once you get those two in you can relax, and the "helper screws" temporarily threaded into the rails just below the heavy unit work like a third hand to temporarily support the unit. Make sense?
Blue Jinn
Rider of the ARPocalypse
That makes sense. I got it and its friend the MSR-16 in by laying the rack on its back. That isn't practical now. I have cage nuts on this one (it's an old PDP-11 rack, kinda cool looking with the orange accent on top...) so I think I will try and find some nice long screws and support the support screws with more screws. Thanks for the idea.!!!!