Faster CPU or more RAM???

[solo2racr]

Well, unfortunately, the budget has been reduced to $100.00 The MAudio Audiophile 24/96 is still in my budget as well as the M-Audio Revolution 7.1. Any thoughts on the latter?

BTW.......Whomever got me back into the green on rep points, THANK YOU. I'll pay ya back

 

[timthetortoise]

Wait until you're at a budget of at least $300-500. No reason to throw away $100 on something that you won't have much of a use for once you get better gear.

 

[Minion]

You don"t want the 7.1 revolution as it is not inteneded as a Multi-track record card...It is preety much a playback card like your Audigy not a recording card...

The audiophile 24/96 is a good card you might also look into the EMU 0404 which is also about $100 and has 4 ins and 4 outs....


Cheers

 

[solo2racr]

Wait until you're at a budget of at least $300-500. No reason to throw away $100 on something that you won't have much of a use for once you get better gear.

Can you expand on that? In a previous post, you suggested a Delta 44. They run around $150.00. Are you saying now that I would be better served with a $300.00 - $500.00 interface? I'm not following you. I'm trying not to make the same stupid mistake that has carried this thread on to 3 pages.

 

[timthetortoise]

Can you expand on that? In a previous post, you suggested a Delta 44. They run around $150.00. Are you saying now that I would be better served with a $300.00 - $500.00 interface? I'm not following you. I'm trying not to make the same stupid mistake that has carried this thread on to 3 pages.

Well, it seems like your budget keeps going down and under $150 you don't really have a lot of options. For something that you'll be able to use for a long time, you're looking at $300+. M-Audio stuff is great, but if $50 difference is what's going to make/break your budget, you really should wait until you have a little more cash to get something you'll be able to use for awhile.

 

[solo2racr]

Well, it seems like your budget keeps going down and under $150 you don't really have a lot of options. For something that you'll be able to use for a long time, you're looking at $300+. M-Audio stuff is great, but if $50 difference is what's going to make/break your budget, you really should wait until you have a little more cash to get something you'll be able to use for awhile.

Got it!

 

[VSpaceBoy]

Well, it seems like your budget keeps going down and under $150 you don't really have a lot of options. For something that you'll be able to use for a long time, you're looking at $300+. M-Audio stuff is great, but if $50 difference is what's going to make/break your budget, you really should wait until you have a little more cash to get something you'll be able to use for awhile.

I don't see any reason he couldn't continue to use the 24/96 for awhile. I don't think the converters in anything in the $300 range going to be better enough to really hear.

 

[timthetortoise]

I don't see any reason he couldn't continue to use the 24/96 for awhile. I don't think the converters in anything in the $300 range going to be better enough to really hear.

I was just thinking about the RCA ins/outs. I guess it all depends on what your whole setup is, but I personally prefer using 1/4" connections. The 24/96 is definitely a good option though.

 

[solo2racr]

I think I'll end going with the 24/96. 1/4" plugs, for me, seem to work better for apps that need to be plugged in and out often. For this app though, this shouldn't be the case. I have also found that RCA plugs and jacks, depending on the design, tend to have more contact area than 1/4" plugs and jacks.


To be honest, I don't ever see me getting to the point where I would be willing to invest $300.00+ into an interface. This whole thing as just a hobby and I have been down the road before with other hobbies that end up being money pits. I wish I had the tens of thousands back that I have spent on R/C cars, planes, boats, real race cars (not r/c), motorcycles, and who knows what else.

 

[drstawl]

Just wondering what would be the better way to go to lower the latency. Right now the CPU is a AMD K7 2200+ running at 1.6g and the ram is at 512meg. OS is XP. Using Reaper software. I am thinking this is a better way to go instead of getting more outboard gear and just use plug-ins for now.

Thanks, Ken

With XP I'd go with at least a GB of RAM. From there, put more bux into the CPU.

 

[LemonTree]

personaly I'd like to recomend you a really bad card with lots of issues just so you know how it feels when someone one here acts like you, but I won't and if you think (however this rep point thing works) that I can give you that much bad rep in one sitting is feasable then you obviously have a better grasp over that than you do about taking good advice.


Bargain basement is the M-Audio 24/96 get one used on ebay. It's part of the delta family and you can run 4 delta cards in one system. I started with one after my own personal soundblaster nightmare (I recorded 3 albums on a SB 64 AWE way back in the day using all the tips I already mentioned in here), and still have it in my system with 3 x Delta 1010s, not the Lt's...soon to be replace with 2 echo audiofire 12s

We live and learn, being an arse is no excuse

 

[VSpaceBoy]

I was just thinking about the RCA ins/outs. I guess it all depends on what your whole setup is, but I personally prefer using 1/4" connections. The 24/96 is definitely a good option though.

I use mostly 1/4" as well but plugs are plugs. I have four, 6 foot cables that are 1/4" on one side, and rca on the other. I leave the RCA side plugged in all the time, and just swap out preamp or whatever on the way in. THe other set are out to the monitors.

 

[LemonTree]

I have been down the road before with other hobbies that end up being money pits. I wish I had the tens of thousands back that I have spent on R/C cars, planes, boats, real race cars (not r/c), motorcycles, and who knows what else.

I take it you went on your own advice with them hobbies too

 

[solo2racr]

With the exception of the R/C planes (I never took that one that far) I use to race the rest. As with all racing, there is just so much that anyone is willing to share. "Speed secrets" if you will. I was just fair with the R/C cars and just a little better with the R/C boats. Real race cars and motorcycles are another story. I have way to many race car trophies (one 3rd place and the rest 1st) over the course of 5 years. And, I have one national championship endurance motorcycle racing credit as a mechanic for the bike back in 1984. I never was fast on a bike Just know who to build them. Among other things, I am building custom vintage bikes now.

 

[solo2racr]

personaly I'd like to recomend you a really bad card with lots of issues just so you know how it feels when someone one here acts like you, but I won't and if you think (however this rep point thing works) that I can give you that much bad rep in one sitting is feasable then you obviously have a better grasp over that than you do about taking good advice.

We live and learn, being an arse is no excuse

Particularly to you, I would like to apologize. I think I gave you more lip than anyone else. I HAD A BRAIN FART Someday, you will get one too

 

[solo2racr]

Here's another card I came across. The esi Juli@. Anyone have info/feedback on it?

http://www.esi-audio.com/products/julia/

 

[VSpaceBoy]

Seems ok, I've never used it though.

 

[SonicAlbert]

I say go with a card from a well known brand, a card that a lot of people are using. The larger user base will help assure you going forward that driver support will be continuing.

Not that the card you linked to is necessarily bad, I've just never heard of it or the company.

 

[solo2racr]

I say go with a card from a well known brand, a card that a lot of people are using. The larger user base will help assure you going forward that driver support will be continuing.

Not that the card you linked to is necessarily bad, I've just never heard of it or the company.

After doing some more research on the Esi card, I agree. From what I could tell, the company is based in Germany and although they seem to have a good rep, I can't help but think that support, driver updates, etc will be lacking.

 

[LemonTree]

For the intended purpose at the time, it works fine ( I loaded all my CD's onto my harddrive).

Can I comment on this because I'm a bad guy? ripping CD's is software intensive, never does the audio signal pass through your audio card when ripping CDs

get that 24/96 and all your troubles will be over my friend. I look forward to seeing you posting mixes in the Clinic.....then I can start ripping on your room acoustics

Best of luck with everything,

Alex