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pk1
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the side view
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pk1
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and check out my backside baby 
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pk1
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umm..... excuse the dust.. damn high gloss finish on those so it shows up.. ooppss.. 
punkin
Univalve & Avatar Speaks
Check it out...the dude has wood
Very nice. That's about all I can say.
Very nice. That's about all I can say.
frederic
New member
very nice PK1. I wish I had your woodworking ability.
Oh, and nice Akai recorder. Glad to see I'm not the only person who likes those things.
Oh, and nice Akai recorder. Glad to see I'm not the only person who likes those things.
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pk1
New member
yea my akai is the expanded dr4-vr the only problem is.. it doesnt have the second scsi card to connect it to my mac and use the motu software to edit the recorded waveforms off the drive. and i cant find a remote for it anywhere..
but.. if anyone knows where i can get either please let me know...
mainly the scsi card, but both .. that would be great!!
well today im going to be putting the other insert together, the one already put together is made out of 18mm mdf and i also have one out of 25mm mdf
i have both depending on the weight of the items that will be fitted also i may just go with the thicker one from an asthetic point of view..
the only other thing i have to do is decide what finish now...
but.. if anyone knows where i can get either please let me know...
mainly the scsi card, but both .. that would be great!!
well today im going to be putting the other insert together, the one already put together is made out of 18mm mdf and i also have one out of 25mm mdf
i have both depending on the weight of the items that will be fitted also i may just go with the thicker one from an asthetic point of view..
the only other thing i have to do is decide what finish now...
frederic
New member
Yeah, long discontinued and tough to find for sure. It's like that with the DR8 and DR16's too, which I have quite a few of. Took me 3 years to find the akainet-based remote (DL1500). I have the midi version of the akai remote also, I forget the model number. That took a year to find on ebay.
If you have a midi card in your Akai, maybe the bigger remote works with it? Or maybe something like a JL Cooper Cuepoint. I've seen those here and there on e-bay, though not as often as I used to. I actually liked the cuepoint, small, easy to use, simple.
If you have a midi card in your Akai, maybe the bigger remote works with it? Or maybe something like a JL Cooper Cuepoint. I've seen those here and there on e-bay, though not as often as I used to. I actually liked the cuepoint, small, easy to use, simple.
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pk1
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well let me know when you wanna part with one of those remotes
ok well today i have neen marking up the 25mm insert sections.. these are a little different as on the 18mm cams you drill the side holes centerpoint but on the 25 you dont you have to still work it as 18mm / 9mm centerpoint for the holes but that has to be the size up from the insert panels section also otherwise the panels wont sit flush.. you will understand when i put the pictures up later..
ok well today i have neen marking up the 25mm insert sections.. these are a little different as on the 18mm cams you drill the side holes centerpoint but on the 25 you dont you have to still work it as 18mm / 9mm centerpoint for the holes but that has to be the size up from the insert panels section also otherwise the panels wont sit flush.. you will understand when i put the pictures up later..
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pk1
New member
ok, well i forgot to put a picture in of the insert on its own assembled so here it is..
right.. seems i had what im now going to call a frederik zone moment today
i found some box section and a few wheels and some l section.. so i thought i would make a rack dolly.. so i did.. its had one caot of hammerite and it will have another tomorrow.. it is fully collapsable and well it works.. i didnt have any proper racking strip so i made rack strip by drilling all the holes myself!!
heres some piccys
right.. seems i had what im now going to call a frederik zone moment today
i found some box section and a few wheels and some l section.. so i thought i would make a rack dolly.. so i did.. its had one caot of hammerite and it will have another tomorrow.. it is fully collapsable and well it works.. i didnt have any proper racking strip so i made rack strip by drilling all the holes myself!!
heres some piccys
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pk1
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rack dolly
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pk1
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modular leg assembly
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pk1
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and each side of the racks. a locking tee bolt so you can angle the rack and lock it off
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rweiss
New member
Cmon, it isn't hard to powdercoat! (Just go to your local car detail shop and borrow their small machine or rent one from Home Depot or something) - though since you are using wood, this obviously wouldn't work, but for others interested in powdercoating their consoles - do it!
Anyway, awesome job on the console - glad to see it came out perfectly!
Anyway, awesome job on the console - glad to see it came out perfectly!
frederic
New member
Middle Atlantic Products (MAP) sells rails through sweetwater, sam ash, musician's friend, and a ton of other places. Even seen them on e-bay dirt cheap.
You simply make the opening 19-1/8" wide, bolt the rails in, and you're done. They come powdercoated for long life. Drilling and tapping four holes every 1.75" and getting them "dead nuts" straight is a job for a machine somewhere else in the world, not you
You simply make the opening 19-1/8" wide, bolt the rails in, and you're done. They come powdercoated for long life. Drilling and tapping four holes every 1.75" and getting them "dead nuts" straight is a job for a machine somewhere else in the world, not you
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pk1
New member
um lets make a few things clear here..
im in the u.k so i dont have a home depot.. as for the rack strips.. I DIDNT HAVE ANY SO I MADE SOME...... thats it.. i was bored so i made it ... doh.. i dont want a prize, i improvised with the items i had..
also for powder coating you need to have a negative charge applied to the metal and a positive charge to the particles being sprayed, also the law states (same as in the u.s) that any emmision of a sprayed or diffused substance that is non organic in nature and contains compounds which require means of filtering cannot be used in a public enviroment. also, if you are going to powder coat mdf this is more specialist as it has to be thermo resin fused coating a mixture of a special resin based coating that has hardened charicteristics. Also before powder coating mdf or fiberboard as i think it is known in the states you have to apply a moisture barrier primer to the surface and then you need to apply this several times with a good sanding between coats to achieve a good surface for coating. one other thing you have to remember about powder coating is the baking process... you have to then bake the powder coating in a sealed oven for the coating to "take" or "bond" this is usually at 300 plus degrees the good thing about this is that it then doesnt need a finishing laquer as the powder molecules bond to each other giving a uniform coating.
the way mdf is poweder coated is different and something that is specialist in nature.. you dont buy or rent this stuff from a diy store..
as for metal its just the charge thats required but hey why go down that route when you can use hammerite and apply one coat than give it a suface finish and then apply two more leveller coats for a smooth hammer finish.. all for the price of a meal out??? the whole purpose of making these things is to save money why spend money on equipment to hire when you can do that same job with more limited items just as good??
im in the u.k so i dont have a home depot.. as for the rack strips.. I DIDNT HAVE ANY SO I MADE SOME...... thats it.. i was bored so i made it ... doh.. i dont want a prize, i improvised with the items i had..
also for powder coating you need to have a negative charge applied to the metal and a positive charge to the particles being sprayed, also the law states (same as in the u.s) that any emmision of a sprayed or diffused substance that is non organic in nature and contains compounds which require means of filtering cannot be used in a public enviroment. also, if you are going to powder coat mdf this is more specialist as it has to be thermo resin fused coating a mixture of a special resin based coating that has hardened charicteristics. Also before powder coating mdf or fiberboard as i think it is known in the states you have to apply a moisture barrier primer to the surface and then you need to apply this several times with a good sanding between coats to achieve a good surface for coating. one other thing you have to remember about powder coating is the baking process... you have to then bake the powder coating in a sealed oven for the coating to "take" or "bond" this is usually at 300 plus degrees the good thing about this is that it then doesnt need a finishing laquer as the powder molecules bond to each other giving a uniform coating.
the way mdf is poweder coated is different and something that is specialist in nature.. you dont buy or rent this stuff from a diy store..
as for metal its just the charge thats required but hey why go down that route when you can use hammerite and apply one coat than give it a suface finish and then apply two more leveller coats for a smooth hammer finish.. all for the price of a meal out??? the whole purpose of making these things is to save money why spend money on equipment to hire when you can do that same job with more limited items just as good??
frederic
New member
Make all the rails you want... was just saying for $11 US a pair, its not worth the effort tapping a bazillion holes, that's all. Certainly not knocking ya...
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pk1
New member
he he yea i know ..
all i had was what was there and there is no pro audio store anywhere near where i am and i just wanted to see if i could make it,... amazing what you do when your bored!!
tomorrow im gonna put the other insert together and then its time for some sanding and prepping for final finish..the end panels get done last.
all i had was what was there and there is no pro audio store anywhere near where i am and i just wanted to see if i could make it,... amazing what you do when your bored!!
tomorrow im gonna put the other insert together and then its time for some sanding and prepping for final finish..the end panels get done last.
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rweiss
New member
Overall, how much did this entire operation cost you (not including tools - just materials and whatever external labour you payed for) ?
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pk1
New member
tools.. well im a carpenter so i have had them for years. so they paid for themselves years ago..
2 sheets of 22mm mdf for making the console.. 38 uk sterling about 26-27 us dollars
the legs.. about 10 uk sterling in materials 5-8 us dollars
the cnc routing... 25 uk sterling 18-20 us dollars
hinges and cam and lock dowels.. nothing i already had them
costing then... well so far for the console £73.00 uk sterling thats about..
59+ us dollars... saving me.... 2000 dollars plus shipping plus u.k customs tarrif plus uk v.a.t plus secondary courier services.. all in all that would of been in excess of 3500k sterling for a piece of m.d.f/fiberboard!
seems like a bargain to me......
2 sheets of 22mm mdf for making the console.. 38 uk sterling about 26-27 us dollars
the legs.. about 10 uk sterling in materials 5-8 us dollars
the cnc routing... 25 uk sterling 18-20 us dollars
hinges and cam and lock dowels.. nothing i already had them
costing then... well so far for the console £73.00 uk sterling thats about..
59+ us dollars... saving me.... 2000 dollars plus shipping plus u.k customs tarrif plus uk v.a.t plus secondary courier services.. all in all that would of been in excess of 3500k sterling for a piece of m.d.f/fiberboard!
seems like a bargain to me......
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