Cracked bridge

[muttley600]

BTW, shims under an acoustic saddle is not the recommended fix for high action.

Your right there anyone who trys to fix a high action by shimming a saddle is not the guy to go to

We are not talking about a high action fix here. The saddle would be LOWERED if we were. The fix would be for a choking low action or buzzing.

Lets not confuse the issue here with a list of possible causes of action problems that you have no information to diagnose.

 

[gbdweller]

...Is it worth putting a bit of fingerboard oil on a flat top bridge periodically?

I do. Just don't over do it. When the wood looks thirsty, give it a light rub to keep the wood healthy.

 

[gbdweller]

Your right there anyone who trys to fix a high action by shimming a saddle is not the guy to go to

We are not talking about a high action fix here. The saddle would be LOWERED if we were. The fix would be for a choking low action or buzzing.

Lets not confuse the issue here. With a list of possible causes of action problems that you have no information to diagnose.

Note my edit that occurred while you were typing your reply. I really should proof read before I submit my reply

 

[muttley600]

Just in case anyone wants to know how often to oil bare wood.

Once a day for a week. once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for the rest of your life....... Easy

 

[muttley600]

Note my edit that occurred while you were typing your reply. I really should proof read before I submit my reply

No problem

 

[Flamin Lip]

13s are pretty heavy. Some guitars can take it, but a large % of D sized guitboxes WILL develop MAJOR issue(bellys, lifting bridges, lifting saddles, loose braces. If and when ya get this figured out, I would highly recomend detuning it when its cased.

I dig playing heavy strings for strumming and bluegrass, but there is often a price to pay.

What kind of guitar is it anyway?

 

[danny.guitar]

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

The action was raised to fix the buzzing I had. It worked too, but if I had known that it would have caused this I would have waited until I could afford it to be done properly or just left it alone.

I saved the receipt for so long and just recently threw it away. It wasn't TOO long ago though so I don't know if it'd be in their computer or if the guy would remember, or what.

Either way, I doubt they'd be willing to fix it even if it was their fault.

Guess I'll just take it to them Monday and see what they'd say it needs to be fixed. And base whether or not I want them to fix it on the price/what they'd do to it.

I'll probably post back here and tell you what they say so I know if I should go through with it or not.

 

[danny.guitar]

What kind of guitar is it anyway?

Cort acoustic/electric.

 

[toyL]

Flamin Lip makes some good points.
Furthermore, if you're absolutely intent on using .013 my advice is to have your neck bolted into place by someone who's had plenty of experience performing this mod. I think all the "Taylor" guitars bolt their necks, and there's a good reason for it.

 

[c7sus]

Saddles shouldn't be shimmed. It's the point of contact between the strings and the top. It makes NO SENSE to have a too-short saddle raised with shims. If this is how they raised your action I wouldn't go back to that shop.

They should have replaced your saddle to fit across the bottom of the slot on the bridge properly and set the action from there.

 

[danny.guitar]

Saddles shouldn't be shimmed. It's the point of contact between the strings and the top. It makes NO SENSE to have a too-short saddle raised with shims. If this is how they raised your action I wouldn't go back to that shop.

They should have replaced your saddle to fit across the bottom of the slot on the bridge properly and set the action from there.

Yea, after reading over muttley's and everyone's posts that's what I think now. Wish I had known that before. At least when I get another acoustic I'll know all of this stuff. When I do get one I'll probably just get a new saddle from the start (not plastic) and have it setup properly for 13 gauge strings. That's what I should have done before switching to 13's.

Anyway, gonna take it to them tomorrow and see what they say.

If it's going to be $200+ I'm probably just going to get a new guitar. I played an Art & Luthrie that had a real nice sound for about $250.

 

[danny.guitar]

I wish I lived somewhere else. There seem to be NO good shops with qualified repair people here. This shop is really my only choice. They're the only ones who seem like they know what they're doing and aren't assholes.

 

[muttley600]

Flamin Lip makes some good points.
Furthermore, if you're absolutely intent on using .013 my advice is to have your neck bolted into place by someone who's had plenty of experience performing this mod. I think all the "Taylor" guitars bolt their necks, and there's a good reason for it.

Rubbish, you do not need to bolt the neck. Taylors system is completely different and they do it, as do others for other reasons.

 

[muttley600]

Saddles shouldn't be shimmed. It's the point of contact between the strings and the top. It makes NO SENSE to have a too-short saddle raised with shims. If this is how they raised your action I wouldn't go back to that shop.

They should have replaced your saddle to fit across the bottom of the slot on the bridge properly and set the action from there.

There is nothing wrong with shimming a saddle in most cases. I'll say again. In this case shimming the saddle has most likely left too much saddle above the slot and the saddle is not a good fit in the slot. That is the likely cause of your problem.

 

[muttley600]

I wish I lived somewhere else. There seem to be NO good shops with qualified repair people here. This shop is really my only choice. They're the only ones who seem like they know what they're doing and aren't assholes.

Take it to them explain to them what I have told you, and if they contest it PM for my contact details and I'll let them know what a Martin, Taylor and Lowden certified shop has to say on the matter. I cannot give any further advice without having the guitar in front of me. Only then could I asses wether the bridge has been damaged further.

The fix needs to be a new saddle that fits the slot with more 60% sunk in the slot. If they need to deepen the slot so be it as long as they don't go through the bridge.

If this cannot be achieved they need to find out why the action is like it is. 13 gauge strings would raise the action rather than lower it causing buzzing so if anything they would assist not hinder as long as the belly and neck can handle them. In most cases they can.

 

[danny.guitar]

I took it to the same shop that fixed it (fucked it up) before. They said the cost of repair exceeds the value of the instrument.

It was a liability thing. But the guy there agreed with me that the cause was how they raised the action by using shims instead of replacing the saddle.

Anyway, as I was there I tried out a guitar. A Washburn D56SW for about $839 and I think that's what I'm going to save up for. It beats the hell out of all the Taylors and other high end guitars I've tried in the past few months.

I think I finally found the guitar I've been looking for the past, like...6 months.

 

[XLR]

I took it to the same shop that fixed it... the guy there agreed with me that the cause was how they raised the action by using shims instead of replacing the saddle.

They should make good on their error. Myself, I sure wouldn't buy a gtr from them.

 

[danny.guitar]

They should make good on their error. Myself, I sure wouldn't buy a gtr from them.

That's what I told him. He was being a douche. He said they won't even accept it for repair for the liability reasons, which I understand but he was still acting like an asshole.

I really don't want to buy anything from them but that is the first guitar I've tried in several months that I actually want really bad. I could order it online I guess but I'd rather be able to try it out first and that one sounded perfect.

$100 saved. $739 to go.

 

[XLR]

He said they won't even accept it for repair for the liability reasons...

But that's what he should have told you in the beginning... "can't raise the saddle any more without potential for bridge damage." And he should have talked to you about bellying of the top or neck angle problems, whichever it might be that's causing the saddle to need to be excessively high. But he didn't, and the resulting adjustment sure appears to have been the cause of the damage. They should fix it, or make the value up to you another way.

Looking at pic #2, that saddle was way too high in comparison to the bridge ht itself.

 

[danny.guitar]

But that's what he should have told you in the beginning... "can't raise the saddle any more without potential for bridge damage." And he should have talked to you about bellying of the top or neck angle problems, whichever it might be that's causing the saddle to need to be excessively high. But he didn't, and the resulting adjustment sure appears to have been the cause of the damage. They should fix it, or make the value up to you another way.

Looking at pic #2, that saddle was way too high in comparison to the bridge ht itself.

Yeah, this wasn't the same guy who repaired it though. This guy's a douche but at least he seems like he knows what he's talking about.

Regardless, if it were my shop I'd fix it for free or at least give a discount. At the very least forget about the liability issues and accept the guitar for repair. But nope.

And to think this is the best music shop within 50 or more miles from here.