[SOLVED] Building Mic Cables

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4tracker

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Right now I'm using cheap cables b/c I just feel intuitively that fancy cables are a scam and a waste of money. But, mine sometimes have iffy/loose connections, and I do wonder how much that affects sound. Today I came across an article about making cables and decided to go for it.

So I bought bulk balanced cabled, male and female xlrs...then some bulk unbalanced cable with TS 1/4" (since I record on a 244 4-track sometimes, and it only takes unbalanced 1/4).

From what I read and looked at on youtube, this is simply a matter of soldering the cable to the xlr.

Has anyone done it? Any major challenges or advice?
 
pretty simple, I always tinned the cable end, filled the connector pin with solder, then heated the connector pin and inserted the cable end. the wire is so small it's easy to melt the insulation if you try to hold the wire inside the connector and then solder, plus the connector being much thicker takes much more heat to get hot. and use flux. :D
 
Atkron205 said:
pretty simple, I always tinned the cable end, filled the connector pin with solder, then heated the connector pin and inserted the cable end. the wire is so small it's easy to melt the insulation if you try to hold the wire inside the connector and then solder, plus the connector being much thicker takes much more heat to get hot. and use flux. :D
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Thanks. I think the solder I have has flux in it already. It's the 60/40 stuff from radioshack.
 
always use flux, it cleans the metal and also is great for cleaning the iron tip. when you strip the wire, put flux on it, put a small amount of solder on the iron tip, then all you have to do is touch it to the wire and the solder will run on the wire real easy. same thing for the connector, always flux 1st. get a wet sponge, dip the hot tip in the flux then wipe on the sponge to clean it. also a good idea to get a de-solder pump. you can de-solder with wick but the pump is much better.:D
 
Atkron205 said:
always use flux, it cleans the metal and also is great for cleaning the iron tip. when you strip the wire, put flux on it, put a small amount of solder on the iron tip, then all you have to do is touch it to the wire and the solder will run on the wire real easy. same thing for the connector, always flux 1st. get a wet sponge, dip the hot tip in the flux then wipe on the sponge to clean it. also a good idea to get a de-solder pump. you can de-solder with wick but the pump is much better.:D
Click to expand...

I have the 60/40 rosin-core solder for electronics.

I didn't think this type needed flux...thought it was in the solder/rosin already.

Is that wrong?

What temperature would you guys do the job at?
 
Everything Atkron said. You can use a file to clean the tip if it gets bad.

Use wire cutters to clean excess wire from the solder lugs.

Be as minimalist as you can with the solder. A cleaner job is better. If you have big blobs, you'll have trouble getting the connector on.

The connectors should have some kind of cable restraint. Be sure to use them because if you don't, cables go iffy.

Lastly, add everything up and see if you saved money over buying pre-made cables.
 
4tracker said:
I have the 60/40 rosin-core solder for electronics...

...What temperature would you guys do the job at?
Click to expand...

You'll be fine without the extra rosin. I use the same stuff.

My iron has only one temp; it's a 30w pencil type. But if you can, go as hot as possible. You're not working with active components.
 
no it's not wrong. it's just easier if you use flux 1st. the flux will melt 1st and helps heat the metal, plus when you use flux first the solder flows more evenly and less chance of getting cold spots. for instance, if you are soldering the barrel pin of an XLR connector, if you put flux in 1st, then when you heat it and add the solder, it will be drawn inside the pin more easier, you dont have to flux before soldering but it makes it easier.try it both ways and you will see the difference. the paste flux works best for me. plus with the paste you can just dip the iron in it for cleaning. it is also good to have an iron with variable temp control but you dont have to. its just easier if you can vary the temp for different applications.
 
I am anal about cleaning my tip! I clean it after every joint. if you keep it clean you won't get buildup. (that looks bad when I read it back) :facepalm: you don't have to use external flux but it is easier and you will use less solder and get cleaner joints. the wet sponge works great, plus you can always just sling off the excess:-)facepalm:). :D
 
Atkron205 said:
I am anal about cleaning my tip! I clean it after every joint. if you keep it clean you won't get buildup. (that looks bad when I read it back) :facepalm: you don't have to use external flux but it is easier and you will use less solder and get cleaner joints. the wet sponge works great, plus you can always just sling off the excess:-)facepalm:). :D
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What I normally do is have a wet sponge and when the tip is hot I just wipe it on there. I'll have to look at the condition of it before starting. If it's all grimy then I'll get some flux. I never used flux, though, so I'm not sure how to go about that. Will have to research it. I always thought the flux was for large joints in electronics, old parts, or plumbers (different type, from what I remember), but that the rosin core contained enough flux it in for these types of joints.

Hmm. I hope this doesn't turn out to be a disaster. Oh well, I only bought $50 worth of materials, which will make about 6 cables...unless I mess up badly.
 
I have made hundreds of those cables over the years at Churches, small basement radio studios and in Radio as I was Chief Engineer at 4 radio stations. It is very easy to make the cables like you want to. There are two standards to wiring XLR connectors but as long as each side is the same the Microphone or equipment will not know what the wire color is. Presently I wire the hot to pin 2, ground to 1 and cold to the pin 3. The other standard is 3 being hot with 2 being cold. Hot and cold refers to the phase relationship of the feed to the connector. In such, the hot has the positive going sine wave phase while the cold will have the negative sine wave phase. These two signals operate in a differential mode to allow the result being the common mode rejection of common signals like hum. You can buy an expensive cable like Canare cables which has two sets of wires in then allowing for some redundant connection as well as a 100% braid shield. I have in many places used Gepco shielded pair wire that did just fine as well. The Canare cable will just last longer under heavy use of movement.
In the case with the 244, the shielding will be of help mostly for that. I have worked on and repaired hundreds of those too having worked at Teac for a number of years. I fixed one not too long ago as I am still doing those repairs full time. I hope this will help you move ahead in your work. One of the things I find that allow for failure in XLR connections are those people that do not fill the solder cup of the connector to allow it to surround and bond to the wire fullly. Where I have had to repair these cables the person place a very small amount of solder at the bottom of the solder cup and that will eventually break lose. I have never had any of my soldering break lose and might be why companies call me to do studio installs like ESPN Radio and News Web. There is a lot more than just microphone wires however.
 
the rosin core is fine without flux, just from years of experience I have found it's easier. as far as using it, just apply it 1st. here are a couple of things that will also help :

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-led-helping-hands-with-magnifier?variant=5717848709

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-pro-line-desoldering-pump?variant=5717846213



the helping hands are great, you can place your cable in one for tinning and the connector in the other. always tin the cable before you insert it in the connector, it makes for a quicker and better joint. with the cable tinned all you have to do is get it hot.
 
skywaveTDR said:
One of the things I find that allow for failure in XLR connections are those people that do not fill the solder cup of the connector to allow it to surround and bond to the wire fullly. Where I have had to repair these cables the person place a very small amount of solder at the bottom of the solder cup and that will eventually break lose.
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Great post overall. Thanks for that. Can you elaborate on this? What do you mean "fill the solder cup"?

Also, is Mogami W2549 cable considered high quality? I saw you mention some brands...I bought the Mogami W2549. Hope that stuff is good. I did make sure it was shielded and all that.

Edit: also, what temperature do you do the job at? What size tip? And do you use flux?
 
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Atkron205 said:
the rosin core is fine without flux, just from years of experience I have found it's easier.
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I hear ya. I'm researching flux now and freaking out a bit...worried my tip is dirty (that sounds wrong) and all that now!

If I tin the tip, then wipe it on the wet sponge, won't that essentially clean it well enough to do this? #freakingOutAboutMakingCables
 
LOL, by tinning I mean tin the wire and the connector side, be it a TRS or XLR put solder on both sides first, as Skywave said, fill the cup. meaning if you look at the pin on an XLR connector, where you solder the wire is a hollow pin, he means fill that up completely with solder, that is one reason I use flux. I put flux down inside the pin, then heat with the iron and add solder to fill up the pin, then I tin the wire on the cable, heat up the pin I just filled, when the solder in the pin is liquid, I insert the wire. since you already have the wire tinned, the heat of the connector pin will melt the solder on the wire and join the two together. it's not hard, it just takes some practice.
 
Atkron205 said:
LOL, by tinning I mean tin the wire and the connector side, be it a TRS or XLR put solder on both sides first, as Skywave said, fill the cup. meaning if you look at the pin on an XLR connector, where you solder the wire is a hollow pin, he means fill that up completely with solder, that is one reason I use flux. I put flux down inside the pin, then heat with the iron and add solder to fill up the pin, then I tin the wire on the cable, heat up the pin I just filled, when the solder in the pin is liquid, I insert the wire. since you already have the wire tinned, the heat of the connector pin will melt the solder on the wire and join the two together. it's not hard, it just takes some practice.
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Thanks, is this what you guys mean by filling the cup?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8

I'm watching this entire series [it's great] now to remember all this. Haven't soldered in a year or more and never worked on a mic cable.
I think I'm going to take apart one of my old cables and re-solder them as practice. They're failing anyway so might as well use them.

It's interesting, in that youtube video they say to use thermal wire cutters...that anything else will nick the inside wire. Is that true?
 
I've never used flux for electronic work. Your 60/40 resin core should be fine.

XLRs are one of the easiest things to learn to solder--just make sure you use good quality connectors (Neutrik for example) and good cable with nice "handling quality".

Do get a decent soldering iron with enough power/heat to allow you to make the connections quickly. You don't need to spend a fortune but do spend more than the cheapest Radio Shack.

One hint for soldering XLRs is to have a mating XLR clamped into some kind of stand...put the inside bit of the connector you're soldering onto that solidly clamped connector and you have a nice easy thing to work on. Don't forget to slide the shell of the XLR over the cable before soldering...we've all done that!

Once the cores of your cable are stripped, give them a nice twist with your fingers and "tin" them with a bit of solder on the end of your iron. Keep a wet sponge nearby to wipe the hot iron on so it stays shiny silver but has no lumps. Make sure the iron you buy has a nice, small pointy end for electronic work. Follow the principal of heating the bits you want to solder and letting the solder flow rather than heating the solder and letting it drip...heating the solder is a good way to get "dry joints".

Above all, persevere. Soldering is a skill you'll use all your life.
 
4tracker said:
It's interesting, in that youtube video they say to use thermal wire cutters...that anything else will nick the inside wire. Is that true?
Click to expand...

I've watched professional "wiremen" install many kilometers of cable in large TV studio installations and not one of them used thermal wire cutters. On the advice of one of these guys (who spent 10 hours a day stripping and soldering cable) I bought an insulation stripper like THE TOP ONE ON THIS PAGE. I've had it for 25 or 30 years and it's still going strong and, used properly, never nicks the inside wires.
 
Going to have a bit of a moan now! Some bad advice here IMO. (my qualifications? 55yrs soldering. Maintained 50 solder stations and F'knows how many Weller Magnastats for 5 years. Had personal instruction from Weller techs.)

As Bobbsy says, you do not need extra flux for routine connector soldering. When I did cables for J Bean Antennas for 6 weeks, yes we used a flux but these were big, heavy jobs. The dry residue MUST be cleaned off afterwards!

Do NOT ever take a file to an electronics style bit. They are iron plated and once you go through that it is buggered. IF the bit gets black, buy a tip cleaner tin (expensive for a wee pot at Maplin) and use that but sparingly, very aggressive stuff. However, if you follow some simple rules the tip will last for years...

1, Flood with solder and wipe on kitchen paper or brass wool.NEVER use a damp sponge, the thermal shock cracks the plating (esp' at Pbfree temps)
2, Tin again to make the joint.
3, Clean then flood the tip with fresh solder before putting the kit away.
4, Do not leave the iron and hence tip to "cook". Modern temp controlled irons get to working heat in less than 1 mniute so don't turn the iron on and THEN spend 1/2 hr sorting bits and pieces!

Pity the OP bought single screened cable for unbalanced gear. Use "mic" cable and tie the black/cold wire to screen each end and use red as hot. This give the lowest capacitance and reduces cable handling noise.

Dave.
 
Agree with most of what you say Dave...except about the damp sponge. I was taught to work that way 40 years ago and not once had a problem with the plating cracking. I just worked out that the tip I use at present is 16 years old and still going strong despite a lot of connectors being soldered.

Indeed, my solder station (a Xytronics from RS) has a little tray for a sponge and came supplied with a small bit of natural sponge included.
 
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