sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
That’s why I said look in the manual…not a datasheet.
Mark7
Well-known member
Will this work https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3744634.pdf (pages 23 and 24)?
I know barely anything about electrical and electronics beyond the absolute basics. I'm pretty sure I've mentioned that before.
I know barely anything about electrical and electronics beyond the absolute basics. I'm pretty sure I've mentioned that before.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Like I said before, we’re not concerned with measuring the frequency of your bias oscillator. Look at pages 23 & 24 again. Can you see that has to do with the meter’s frequency reading function and not measuring AC voltage?
What I suggested before was to look in the specifications section of a meter’s manual and look at the specifications for the meter’s ability to read AC volts. Go to page 36. Look at the row labeled “True RMS AC Voltage.” Notice two things: 1. The meter is only rated to read AC volts at or above 500mV. Your bias amps, if working, will be outputting something on the order of 150mV. 2. The meter is only rated to be accurate to read AC volts from 20Hz to 1lHz. Do you see that? That’s what you should be looking for are those types of specifications. Stop focusing on the frequency measuring function. I don’t think this meter will work.
Yes. I’m aware. And I appreciate that you want to dive in. I’m just hesitant because in the past you haven’t followed advice or pressed ahead maybe recklessly and caused more trouble for yourself. Who knows…maybe this current issue stems from something in the past. It’s okay to be novice at something. It’s problematic when you carry yourself as though others are obligated to help you or do your work for you. That’s how you come across to me…that’s my opinion, my perception. I’ve helped lots and lots of people over the years across a wide spectrum of skill and experience starting at beginner level. Typically the person I’m helping attempts to increase their knowledge, read, ask questions, to advance. And that makes the helping and the process easier. My experience with you is you don’t do that, but rather expect others to spoon-feed each detail to you. That’s your prerogative, but that’s more time consuming for the helper, and you will likely have a harder time getting or keeping help. And you still only give shreds of information in your posts and questions and I mentioned this before because it makes it harder for your helper…it automatically creates a game of 20 questions which is time consuming. And frustrating. I don’t know if you’re going to actually read this. I thought about just deleting it. But decided to post it so, if I choose to disengage, you have the opportunity to read why I made that choice.
Mark7
Well-known member
So there's nothing in the £50 to £100~price range that can do the job and only multimeters starting at £400 are capable? What use have I for a £400+ multimeter? I'm not going to start repairing other peopleś electrical equipment. It would be an investment I can't afford or justify.
It doesn't help that I don't understand what you're saying most of the time.
It doesn't help that I don't understand what you're saying most of the time.
Mark7
Well-known member
Im going to see about getting all the rec/play cards rebiased, whether they need it or not. It can't be that much more than buying a £400 multimeter and then getting them rebiased
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Right. That’s why I suggested take it to a tech.
I don’t know what you don’t understand if you don’t ask.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Getting the bias level set is not your problem. Finding out why it doesn’t record or erase is your problem.
Mark7
Well-known member
I can't read circuit diagrams, so I've no idea where the bias oscillator is or how it's connected to everything else. I also don't know why it might not be switching into record mode.
R
RFR
Well-known member
@Mark7
I don’t mean to be harsh. But the facts here are you have a broken machine.
You have two options here. Actually 3
1) take it to someone who knows what they’re doing and get it repaired
2) learn how to repair it yourself and get the necessary equipment to test and diagnose it. (The learning curve might be steep, and resources might be tight, but this is an option)
3) give up on it and sell it to someone who is willing and/or capable of carrying out options 1 and 2
@sweetbeats has been quite helpful to you and so many others here on technical issues, but there’s only so much he can do.
I can see from his posts that he’s getting frustrated.
I’m getting frustrated just reading this thread.
Again, sorry to be harsh, but you’re going to have to step up and take some more responsibility for your situation, and not try to put the burden on him.
I’ve had no correspondence with him on this topic, and am not speaking for him.
I’m totally commenting on what I see just from reading this thread.
Sweetbeats helps out a ton of people here for no pay and sometimes no thanks either.
None of us are “entitled” to his generous sharing of information that he’s worked a long time to acquire. Let’s not burn him out.
Good luck to you. Hope you get it fixed
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sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Right. We know that. Nobody said you have to know all that stuff. We can maybe help fill those gaps. But you have to start somewhere. And if it was me (repeating myself), I’d start by checking if the bias amps are outputting any signal. We’re having a circular conversation.
