Best Way To Hook MTS30 Up To 388

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To what track did you stripe your sync signal? Should be track 8. Are you confident your 388 records and reproduces to spec on track 8?

What type of sync signal did you record? Should be FSK.

What position is the track 8 dbx defeat switch in when your record and reproduce your sync signal? It should be ON…defeat ON. In other words no dbx on track 8.

The PGM 8 BUSS IN jack is the best way to get sync signal recorded to track 8. And not too hot. Like -7 to -10 on your VU meter.

The PGM 8 BUSS OUT jack is the best way to get sync signal to the MTS-30 TAPE IN jack.
 
I'm striping to track 8, definitely. Double and triple checked

FSK is the only kind of sync signal outputted by the MTS-30 according to the manual. So, yes, FSK

dbx Defeat is in the on position

Tape out is connected to PGM Buss In 8

Tape in is connected to PGM Buss Out 8

But... Oh no, I tried 6 of the 8 tracks and none of them seem to be working. The mixer is definitely passing the signal but it's either not getting to the rec/play head, or the rec/play head isn't reproducing the signal. All I get is hiss :oops: 😦 😭
 
That would definitely cause a problem with your sync track.

I think you’ve found your issue.

Can I assume the R/P head is nice and clean?

Does it play back a known good tape?
 
Okay. You wanna hear something weird? I put a different tape on (Quantegy 457. As opposed to the RTM LPR90 i had on before) and... It plays back fine.

However... It still doesn't record. Was expecting that it would,
 
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So you have a known good LPR90 tape that won’t play back, but a known good 457 tape that does?
 
Well, there was nothing on the LPR90, so there's that. I was going to use it for some new stuff

So, the problem is that the 388 isn't recording. On either tape.

Which does explain why I'm having such a hard time striping FSK to track 8.
 
If it doesn't erase or record, either you have lost the record/erase bias or the machine is not switching into record mod and turning on the bias oscillator.
 
Well sure it can be fixed…pretty much anything can be fixed, it just depends on what the problem is vs what kind of time and resources you have at your disposal.

Try reseating the bias amp cards. If there’s no change, do this…to check if the bias amp is outputting signal…look in your manual at the procedure for setting the bias level. Do the procedure. If you measure 0V at the indicted test points for each track, there is likely a problem with the master bias oscillator. Report what you find.
 
Before I proceed any further do I need to take them out or just push down on them?

Also. I have no test equipment
 
Reseating…take them out…put them back in.

Well it’s maybe time to get yourself a multimeter then. That’s all you need to check the bias amp outputs…we’re not concerned with accuracy here, we’re just trying to determine if there is something or nothing.

If you don’t want to or for some reason can’t get a multimeter, then you’ll need to take it to a tech to investigate/evaluate what’s going on.
 
I have a multimeter. I thought you meant an oscilloscope like they mention in the service part of the manual
 
Okay, here's what I'm getting

1 is reading 0
2 is reading 0.01
3 is reading 0.02 to 0,03
4 is reading 0.02
5 is reading 0.02
6 is reading 0.02 to 0,03
7 is reading 0.02
8 is reading 0.02 to 0.03

I've no idea what readings I should be getting
 
Mark7 said:
Okay, here's what I'm getting

1 is reading 0
2 is reading 0.01
3 is reading 0.02 to 0,03
4 is reading 0.02
5 is reading 0.02
6 is reading 0.02 to 0,03
7 is reading 0.02
8 is reading 0.02 to 0.03

I've no idea what readings I should be getting
Click to expand...
First of all, what mode do you have your multimeter switched to?
 
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