Alesis Monitor One

  • Thread starter Thread starter spacedye
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barefoot,

Can you give some detailed advice on flush mounting monitors with rear ports (i.e. Tannoy Reveals) as I have read your posts on an enclosure for flush mounting but I presumed it would be different with rear ports.

Peace...........ChrisO :cool:
 
From my limited exprerience, and from what I've read, I agree with Executivos. All Studio monitors are supposed to have a flat response. Therefore, it doesn't matter what type of music you are using them for. However, if you're going to be doing something like hip-hop or Rap, I'd guess you would want something that at least had enough speaker to handle the excessive low end, therefore little speakers wouldn't work too well. That's why I shyed away from the JBL LSR25p's and comparable monitors, although I did like those in particular.

I play music from Classic rock style to heavy metal/hard rock. I am a bass player as well. Low end was very important to me.
What is important in studio monitors is un-enhanced sound reproduction. The idea is that if you can make it sound like a good mix here, then it should sound decent on most any radio or stereo through whatever speakers.

The nice thing about the Roland DS-90a's I bought, as with most powered/active monitors, is that you have a separate control for both amps in each monitor. I tend to add too much bass, so I overcompensate the bass level in the monitor by turning it up a little louder. Then when I mix a song I think that I'm boosting the bass up higher in my mix, when I'm actually limiting it closer to reasonable. Then when I put it to CD, based on what sounds good to me in the studio, I should be able to carry it to the car stereo...or wherever.....and have a decent mix.

It sounds good in theory. Now all I have to do is finish a project, or remix and old one to test it!

Tom Kemp
 
Flush Mounting Rear Port Monitors

ausrock said:
Can you give some detailed advice on flush mounting monitors with rear ports (i.e. Tannoy Reveals) as I have read your posts on an enclosure for flush mounting but I presumed it would be different with rear ports.
ChrisO,

As you see from my posts, the main point of flush mounting is to increase the baffle size of the monitor. You can still do this with rear ported speakers, but there are a few problems you might run into with the design: 1. You cannot have a rear cavity to the mounting otherwise you will isolate yourself from the acoustic output of the port. 2. You don't want standing waves or enhanced bass loading behind the baffle. 3. You don't want to create coupling problems between the port and the woofer. I'll explain these further.

1. No rear cavity - The problem with this one is self evident. The baffles must be "free floating". You can either suspend them from the ceiling or from an open frame mount.

2. Standing Waves and Loading - The attached file shows a floating baffle which is pulled away from the rear wall. This helps reduce loading effects from the quasi cavity made by the room boundaries and the baffle. It's tilted in both the horizontal and vertical directions to minimize standing waves. It might also be worth while to put acoustic foam and the rear of the baffle if the walls are no treated.

3. Woofer/Port Interaction - In order to understand this it's good to know basically how the port and speaker interact so you can avoid running into problems.

The attached file also gives a schematic representation of the acoustic output of a ported speaker. The green curve is the total output, the blue curve is the speaker cone, and the yellow curve is the port. You can see at frequencies near the lower cutoff most of the output comes from the port. For about an octave above that the port and speaker cone work in conjunction. The port and cone are in phase and since the box is small relative to those wavelengths their sum is constructive.

The problem you can run into when adding a baffle is that you increase the path length between the port and cone. If the path length corresponds to roughly 1/4 wavelength anywhere in the frequency band where the port and cone are working together it will result in destructive rather than constructive interference between the two. This will cause a frequency response dip(s) around the associated frequency(s).

The best way to minimize this is to make the baffle rectangular rather than square (circular would be the worst case) and mount the monitor slightly off center horizontally and vertically. Also you want to avoid having the baffle dimensions close to a 1/4 wavelength of a frequency very close to where the port and cone share the output equally. This could result in the largest potential response dip.

Without measurements all of this would be guessing. I can explain how to collect rough but useful data with a microphone and wave editor with a spectrum analyzer. In any case there will probably be some compromises in the design. Then, in an average room there are always problem and compromises. You might make things worse, but you could make them better. It's worth a try.

Hope this helps:)

barefoot
 

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Regarding Monitor Ones:

I moved the M1's from my bedroom to the basement. They are over 3 ft from the wall. Also, there is much less cushy stuff like a bed and carpeting. Furthermore, the basement is huge as compared to my bedroom.

So far, much less ear fatigue and more well rounded mixes. The M1's are less punchy and have less bass which helps much in getting a better mix.


Matt
 
Hey Matt
Would it be fair to say that the M1s are more suited to a larger room? If that's the case then they're definately not for me as I have a smallish control room.
Mark
 
I've always read that bigger rooms in general are better for monitoring purposes.
 
Im in a huge basement with my rig with foam on the walls and difuse material on the others.
 
I have a pair and was really excited to get rid of them. The Monitor Ones were innacurate in the mids and a little too bright for my liking. Not horrible, but not anything I could keep for long. I got them used for $150 about 6 months ago. Then I found the some used 20/20s at Guitar Center for $199 about a month ago. Everything translates much, much better now.

I was thinking about selling the Monitor Ones, but they work so well as stereo speakers.
 
CyanJaguar said:
more bass also generally sounds good when playing back, but is very good at hiding midrange detail.

This is the same reason why people cant mix with the mackie hr824s

I remembered this post from a while back and was surprised to see you make such a claim with such conviction and I rememberd asking you how did you reach such a conclusion.
If you scroll up you will see that you said well Craig Anderton said so and I told you dont believe everything you read.....
Here is a site to prove my point.

When you make such a strong statement and their are people that wont buy cause you trashed these monitors then you should be more carefull...:).
Even Rip Rowans writtings are to be taken with a grain of salt and make the point even stronger !.
If you read it, it doesnt mean it's true.
http://www.prorec.com/prorec/articl...1f51e9bec181e26f86256ae100131216?OpenDocument
 
CyanJaguar said:
more bass also generally sounds good when playing back, but is very good at hiding midrange detail.
I guess this is a popular quote. :)

There is some truth to this statement but not for the reason implied.

Bass does not hide midrange, but large midbass drivers often do. As I have stated several times on this bbs, the main problem with Mackies, 20/20's and other similar monitors are their use of 8" midbass drivers. No 8" midbass that I am aware of, especially not the polypropylene type, is capable of producing high accuracy (detailed) midrange.

Every loudspeaker design is a compromise, and many of the common nearfield monitors compromise midrange accuracy for bass extension - hence the larger 8" drivers. With the current state of loudspeaker technology, accurate midrange with deep bass means a 3-way system (tweeter, midbass, sub) at least. There's no way around it (unless you've invented something groundbreaking :)).

barefoot
 
Markd102 said:
Hey Matt
Would it be fair to say that the M1s are more suited to a larger room? If that's the case then they're definately not for me as I have a smallish control room.
Mark

That has been my experience. However, aside from the size another problem was that I was mixing in my bedroom. Lots of absorption in my bed and carpet = less than optimal mixing environment.


Matt
 
How does a bedroom work as a studio. I have a couch in my studio room but I dont sleep on it. It just seems to me that alot of stuff will get in the way. Dont you have Basements to put your gear in?You need at least a 20x10' room to fit everything into. and to get a decent bass wavelength.
 
I don't have a basement nor do I know anyone with one....West side :)

Does everyone in Kansas have one?
 
Kansas is OZ

Besides If you dont have one the cyclones will carry you off.:eek:
 
Darrin,
Australia is commonly called OZ, as in Oz-tralia ;)

Seattle is also called Oz occasionally, as it is known as "The Emerald City".

Now in the movie, "The Wizard of Oz" I didn't think Oz was Kansas. Dorothy: "I don't think we're in Kansas any more".

I thought Oz was the dreamland, somewhere....










(wait for it)












Over the Rainbow?


Queue:D

My "studio" is in my loft! :D
 
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