ADJ Mega TriPar Light?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gareth Williams
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Gareth Williams

Gareth Williams

Member
Hi, does anybody on this forum use these lights playing live? and how seriously should I take the safety warning on the back of the light. Basically it says, CAUTION HIGH INTENSITY ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT, avoid direct eye & skin exposure , wear proper eye and skin protection, See manual for safety instructions, etc. The only safety instructions I could find was you should not be within 3 metres of the light, and should use eye and skin protection.

The problem is the light comes on when you switch it on so to set the setting/mode etc. you have to stand right next to it when its on. I did ask about this on the ADJ forum but they completely ignored me and where not helpful at all. Does anybody on this forum use these lights and albe to give advice about them? Massive thanks, Gareth
 
All the Chinese brands that have RGBWUA LEDs are luckily the lower frequency UV - UVA, the colour immediately above in frequency to Blue - the old 'blacklight'. A few stray upwards to UVB (280nm as the boundary) - The dangerous one is the UVC band where 100nm enters the medical germicidal area) UVB is where you can with close direct exposure start to get 'welders eye' which is an inflamtion of the white bit of your eyes - they start to go pink and itch, but usually get better quite quickly. The chip sets in LED lighting are not a problem. Dangerous UV LED is available, but I have never seen them in a moving or fixed head fixture. Most of the UV LEDs in these things are actually lower in frquency to the old discharge black light - which had little visible light. RGBWUA LEDs are still quite blue on the UV LED. I have loads in stock of numerous brands and none cause any issues. If you are up a ladder and one blast you in the face - the brightness makes you jump, but never had any exposure related issues. The labels are simply a requirement of many jurisdictions legal systems. On a UV device, or laser - slap the label on. Having been around UV of all kinds entertainment wise for a very long time - I have had the itchy eye from the old UV cannons - but never once from LED. Add the fact that the inverse square law works in your favour.

If you are in the beam when you adjust the settings, you probably can't see them anyway - so just stand out of the direct beam. I still avoid the old black lights, because they do cause skin and eye irritation, but I wonder why you have to keep setting them? Once set they usually retain the settings - and the panel and buttons are on the back, not the front? Just don't get in front of them. They are also very low powered - so the 20W is split across all the colours!
 
Well. pink fabric can fluoresce but skin goes black - that doesn't help.
Seriously though, none of the lights go high enough in frequency - You already have the very dark blue, the UV makes things light up, but you can still see - sort of a dark indigo really - no good for those cases where you want absolute darkness. If you search youtube for bigclive's channel, he has discovered a few LEDs that claim to be safe, that aren't, but loots more claiming to kill germs that don't! If you see a dark blue light, then it's only really just into the UV-A band. UV-C is the dangerous one - so words like medical, sterilisation, sterile, germicidal are things to be careful of - entertainment lights are fine.
 
rob aylestone said:
All the Chinese brands that have RGBWUA LEDs are luckily the lower frequency UV - UVA, the colour immediately above in frequency to Blue - the old 'blacklight'. A few stray upwards to UVB (280nm as the boundary) - The dangerous one is the UVC band where 100nm enters the medical germicidal area) UVB is where you can with close direct exposure start to get 'welders eye' which is an inflamtion of the white bit of your eyes - they start to go pink and itch, but usually get better quite quickly. The chip sets in LED lighting are not a problem. Dangerous UV LED is available, but I have never seen them in a moving or fixed head fixture. Most of the UV LEDs in these things are actually lower in frquency to the old discharge black light - which had little visible light. RGBWUA LEDs are still quite blue on the UV LED. I have loads in stock of numerous brands and none cause any issues. If you are up a ladder and one blast you in the face - the brightness makes you jump, but never had any exposure related issues. The labels are simply a requirement of many jurisdictions legal systems. On a UV device, or laser - slap the label on. Having been around UV of all kinds entertainment wise for a very long time - I have had the itchy eye from the old UV cannons - but never once from LED. Add the fact that the inverse square law works in your favour.

If you are in the beam when you adjust the settings, you probably can't see them anyway - so just stand out of the direct beam. I still avoid the old black lights, because they do cause skin and eye irritation, but I wonder why you have to keep setting them? Once set they usually retain the settings - and the panel and buttons are on the back, not the front? Just don't get in front of them. They are also very low powered - so the 20W is split across all the colours!
Click to expand...
Thanks Rob, yeah the setting buttons are on the back, so I can't see the light when setting it, but my instruction manual tells you not be be within 3 metres of it, It doesn't say anything about whether you can see the light. If it said, don't look at the light from closer than 3 metres that would make perfect sense. I just thought, this doesn't make any sense! I will just use the light without looking directly at it from too close. Thanks for your help. - I've got another question about it, maybe you can help? I tried it in “sound active” mode and nothing happens. I was playing music pretty loud but the light did not react (just stayed the same colour) does anybody know why that might be? Thanks again.
 
You're in the right mode, but I'm sure there is a sensitivity adjustment using the up/down buttons. It normally just works - but is very dependent on bass for the effect to work. To be honest, sound operation of all these type lights is pretty rubbish. To be fair as these things tend to not be very wide angle - you really don't want to stare into any of them, but remember it's light, which means straight lines.
 
Not sure what you are lookin gto invest in lighting. I like making strange new worlds to travel.

Amazon has the Tom sLEDs 30watt COB cans for about $10-15. They have uDMX control, and free software for your PC to control them. Its off and XLR cable. Not 5- pin DMX. RGB and Uv-ish. They can strobe the colors too. Sequences programmed on freestyler. Easy..like Pick green 30 seconds, then red 30 seconds....run sequence.

not quite UV and not quite as fast as a real strobe., but it does a nice wash.

Get a uDMX USB dongle...$10-15
Screenshot 2023-01-11 151420.webp

how many cans on each stand? I got 10 daisy chained and they work well.
COBDMX.webp


freestyler

Freestyler website

Freestyler DMX control software
www.freestylerdmx.be
 
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rob aylestone said:
You're in the right mode, but I'm sure there is a sensitivity adjustment using the up/down buttons. It normally just works - but is very dependent on bass for the effect to work. To be honest, sound operation of all these type lights is pretty rubbish. To be fair as these things tend to not be very wide angle - you really don't want to stare into any of them, but remember it's light, which means straight lines.
Click to expand...
Thanks Rob, are you sure you don't have to plug the audio into the light with an XLR cable? I can't see any sound sensor on the light, and yes, the sensitivity setting is right up to 8. It still doesn't do anything at all and I've had the music pretty loud. Maybe I should try it louder!
 
Absolutely. Internal mic. The xlr is only for DMX. Not friendly at all for audio. The usual test is crude. Thump it regularly at about 80bpm and it should respond. Think disco sub bass
 
rob aylestone said:
Absolutely. Internal mic. The xlr is only for DMX. Not friendly at all for audio. The usual test is crude. Thump it regularly at about 80bpm and it should respond. Think disco sub bass
Click to expand...
Thanks Rob, I'll try it louder! And then I will thump it!
 
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