Do they make such a cable ??

Just ordered another. I went with the PigHog only because I've seen a couple of there cords and at least they look like a quality build so I feel good reading @TalismanRich comment !!! I'll be sure to check back here with the results.
Checked their website yesterday..."splashy" super busy site and not straightforward to navigate so I blew them out. Proper, "professional" suppliers make their websites clear and simple and quick to know.

I also suspect they claim their cables "sound better" than the competition which is Russ Andrews bllx.

Dave.
 
No, the 1/4 ends don't need to be TRS.
There's no advantage or benefit, for your use, and it's more opportunities for the manufacturer to wire it some way other than what you need.

If you refer back to my pinout, it really is pretty simple.
Your TRS, in our case stereo, end has three conductors...That'll be two insulated wires and a shield/screen. Ground, Left and Right.

You want to break that to 2 X TS which each have one insulated wire and a shield/screen...Ground and signal.
So you'll end up with 1/4" Ground and Left, and 1/4" Ground and Right.

You mentioned being good with an iron but needing a schematic.
There's no schematic. ^ That's it.

You could probably make one in 2 minutes from a pair of broken headphones and a guitar lead,
or maybe even cut and rewire the cable you bought. (y)

You might want to check your existing cable with an output from a different device,
I have had instances where smartphones or mp3 players acted weird despite the correct cable and wiring.
 
"

You could probably make one in 2 minutes from a pair of broken headphones" Possibly not S because a lot of headphone cables use 'tinsel wire' which is Aluminium and impossible to solder.

But, FFS! A stereo 3.5mm plug and two TS or TRS 1/4" plugs? There are not that many permutations and dealing with headphone outputs and inputs, even if there is a short no harm.

IF! The OP does want a stereo splitter I can do him a schematic in the next hour.

Dave.
 
OP just wants left to input 1 and right to input 2.
Here's a visualisation.

61rNZjIgx6L._SL1000_.webp
 
OP just wants left to input 1 and right to input 2.
Here's a visualisation.

View attachment 150941
Ahhh this is so helpful !!! I already ordered one, but I'm going to go ahead and cobble one up this weekend just as an exercise. THANK YOU so much for this. One thing I'm quickly learning is...in woodworking you can never have too many clamps....in recording, you can never have too many patch cables !!! :O)
 
Checked their website yesterday..."splashy" super busy site and not straightforward to navigate so I blew them out. Proper, "professional" suppliers make their websites clear and simple and quick to know.

I also suspect they claim their cables "sound better" than the competition which is Russ Andrews bllx.

Dave.
Other than that they seem to have good shielding, I don't think they make a lot of claims about the cable sounding "better". Their shtick seems to be making cables that are rugged. I have both mic cables, TRS to XLR cables to feed my monitors, and a couple of headphone extensions. I can't complain about any of them. I've run over the headphone cables often with my rolling chair. It's still good after about 4 or 5 years.

Their "silent" guitar cables are similar to a cable that a friend was making. My cable has a Neutrik Silent plug which cut the signal when you pull the cable from the guitar, so you don't get any "BUUZZZZ" when you plug it in. PigHog's has a different plug, but does the same thing.

I have several HOSA cables, but I had a 1/4" to RCA stereo cable go bad after only a few usages. The RCA end got intermittent. Not a big issue, I just cut one end and soldered new plugs on the RCA ends (might as well replace both, right?) but it was an hour in the middle of my project when I had to stop.
 
The OP has the cable they need! They just don’t know how to use their recording device. Buying another one of those cables won’t help. Making your own won’t help. R’ing the F’ing M might.
 
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