Fender - Radius - larger (flatter) than 9.5" ?

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Fender - Radius - is there a larger (flatter) fret board than 9.5" ?

Just a quicky...

I read that the standard modern Strat is 9.5" radius (compound)

Do they make flatter fret boards?

(I can't see an easy way to compare all the models at their web site..)

Cheers,
FM
 
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Wow.*Must* be a stupid question with a response like that!

I'll keep looking...

FM
 
Dude, you need to title (and word) your post so people know what you are talking about! I assume you mean the radius (curvature) of the fretboard. I have no idea what they might be on different brands, and most guitarists probably don't either, we just know what we like.
 
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Woops, sorry all. Is that what they call a seniors moment? I thought I explained it well
:confused:

Anyway, I'll try again.

I've played an ibanez fo the last 20 years. 140mm radius (FLAT fret board).

I want me a Fender Strat for the sound and I went looking at the Fender web site at guitar p0rn.

I was finding it tedious to look through the model specs at all the radius'sss (mostly 9.5") and thought I'd draw upon the knowledge base of the forum to ask the question.

The question being, do Fender do a larger radius than 9.5" (ie a flatter fret board ) ?

I'm beginning to think the answer is no, but I haven't finished Googling yet.

FM
 
I'm not a Fender guy so correct me if i'm wrong.Strats have the curved neck and bridge.Teles have a flat neck and bridge.
 
The G&L Legacy has a 12" radius. You might give those a look. G&L was founded by Leo Fender and the legacy was his design.

edit: BTW 140mm translates to 5.5 inches, more curve than a standard Strat.
 
Radius depends on the particular neck shape. I believe modern strats are slightly 'flatter' than older ones. I, in contrast to you, prefer the smaller radius, but then I'm not a fusion shredder like you.

And I know what you mean about the various models. There's C, flat C, D, soft D, V, soft V, etc. I prefer the D, but then I like 50's neck (the log) LPs.

And Vega's. :D
 
notCardio said:
Radius depends on the particular neck shape. I believe modern strats are slightly 'flatter' than older ones. I, in contrast to you, prefer the smaller radius, but then I'm not a fusion shredder like you.

And I know what you mean about the various models. There's C, flat C, D, soft D, V, soft V, etc. I prefer the D, but then I like 50's neck (the log) LPs.

And Vega's. :D
Click to expand...

Ya had to rub it in:mad: :D
 
Strats don't usually come with flat necks like Ibanez.
 
I knew exactly what the OP was asking about. mjbphotos, methinks you need to put the bong down before you start reading posts... the OP DOES know what he likes- a flatter radius- he just wants it on a Fender guitar.

There ARE strats with different fretboard radii. Only a year or two ago, it was in a Fender catalog, but I don't recall what year. Nor do I recall which ones have flatter radii, but I know some do. I am afraid you will just have to wade through the catalog.

As I recall, a flatter neck makes bends easier. Or is it the other way 'round?

There is no direct connection between radius and neck profile. Totally independent specs. Perhaps there is a RESULTING connection- Fender only puts 9.5 radius fretboards on neck profile "A" "B" and "M" necks, as an example (I just picked letters out of the air, btw.)
 
steveieb - haven't picked up a bong in many years! BTW, the guy changed the thread subject line after I posted.
 
Oh, well, that would change things, wouldn't it" Sorry.
 
Shredder? Shredder wanna be.

But it *is* a case of what you get use to. Minoque was all over me - yep the figure (I think as I scramble to look it up) is 430mm (16") radius for my Ibanez Jem. So it's no wonder these strats at 9.5" feel so curved. And as far as the classic 7.25" radius goes, it's like playing a friggin' baseball bat.

I've done my research. There are 3 Fixed bridge Robert Cray Strats in the Fender 'warehouse' in Sydney Australia and zero in the retail stores ('cause nobody can sell 'em) so I can't even go try one out, but having since discovered that they have a 60s "C" Shape neck and vintage pickups, I think that ends the dream of having a fixed bridge strat. :(

Oh well, can't be too precious. That just opens up the shopping range enormously if i'm looking for a trem strat. I'm dating one at the moment actually- American standard, 9.5" radius, arctic white with maple neck. I plugged it into an little Orange Tiny Terror Combo at 7watts and was very impressed (with both).

It just seems so wrong that to obtain the sound and feel of a Fender Strat, one has to deal with that antiquated engineering blunder that is the strat tremolo.

Of course the above comment could ruffle a few feathers out there - go easy, I do respect your love of the strat. I have owned a strat (20 years ago) and an ibanez (full floating) Jem that is utterly blessed with not going out of tune - I'm not going back to the start tremolo.

So, it's time to learn about blocking the bridge.
Rocket science? DIY? Leave it to the experts? I want to do it once, and do it properly. I don't want it to shift, buzz, bend or get in my way ever again.

Cheers,
FM

Post comment: Hahahahha! thou shal not get drunk and post at forum. Off topic!!! Well, it started with the Radius thing anyway. 9.5" is most common.
 
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If you want a Strat with a flat fretboard, why not just buy the guitar you like then pay a Luthier to change the fretboard.
 
xtp said:
If you want a Strat with a flat fretboard, why not just buy the guitar you like then pay a Luthier to change the fretboard.
Click to expand...

Well yes, I could bu that would be a pretty extreme approach.


I've had a look around and if large Fender radii were common then I'd wander in that direction.

Otherwise, 9.5" feels ok. I'm sure If I owned one for a fortnight it'd feel 'normal'

FM
 
Blocking a Strat tremolo can definitely be DIY, if you can mill a wooden block to a reasonably precise thickness. I'm sure there is a page dedicated to this for the price of a search.

If you are sure that you don't want the tremolo, consider a hardtail Strat. They are not uncommon and often have a 9.5" radius. On paper you should be able to get better sustain out of one of these although I doubt you could tell the difference in a blind test.

If carefully set up, the Strat tremolo can work quite well. Many people dismiss it unfairly. It needs to be adjusted and maintained like any other part of a guitar. This procedure is also available for the price of a search.

http://www.fender.com.au/electricguitars/strats/americanseries/amstrat_ht_specs.php
 
Milnoque said:
Blocking a Strat tremolo can definitely be DIY, if you can mill a wooden block to a reasonably precise thickness. I'm sure there is a page dedicated to this for the price of a search.

If you are sure that you don't want the tremolo, consider a hardtail Strat. They are not uncommon and often have a 9.5" radius.
Click to expand...

Been there, looked for that. Hard tail not an option. I'm on the trems now... and i've been there so I know what I'm in for.

Sorry, leave the tremolo-ing to the big boys (Full locking floyd rose) and block (or Spring) the strats is my preference.

9.5", yep that'll do :)

Cheers,
FM
 
Seems to me part of the problems folks have with Strat-type trems is the insistence of staying with the vintage design (identified most easily by the 6 screws at the pivot point, although I have no idea if that is root of the problem) over the more modern, 2-pivot-screw design. IMHO, the modern design seems to be functionally superior- but everybody seems to want their strat to look like it was made in 1962...

But really, isn't a trem bridge- heck, ANY bridge- a compromise? Wanna change strings fast, but do whammy tricks? Go with a non-locker. Wanna be in tune more of the time? Either go with a hardtail, or re-tune often. Like the advantages of a locker? Then be prepared to spend a whole afternoon changing strings. Whatever. Good God- nothing's free.

Just sayin'.
 
stevieb said:
but everybody seems to want their strat to look like it was made in 1962
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Not me baby. Couldn't care less about the hype-history.

stevieb said:
Then be prepared to spend a whole afternoon changing strings.
Click to expand...

Hahahaha. Yep. It's funny, I changed my strings on my Jem last weekend before I recorded and it didn't take me all afternoon. Yep granted that it does take more time, but I'd be measuring the extra time taken in minutes.

It's all about the points where the strings can get struck (or slip) in the fender trem system. And when they're nice and new, they kinda let you think that they might behave in the future, but you *know* at some stage that it's gonna be a problem unless you manage it.

I think I've caused a drift of topic! I kicked off a Trem thread.

Cheers,
FM
 
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