Tons of Insulation to Install

[getuhgrip]

hey getagrip, can i ask why you didn't put a sub floor in for the live room?

Of course you can ask!

I'm not aware of the significance or benefit of a sub floor is the honest answer.

Another answer is that I had a "whole house" to build in a very narrow window of time. Unfortunately, alot of things got less attention than they should have. Don't even get me going!

Thing is....sub flooring is still a possibility, but I'd need to hear some really compelling arguments before spending the time doing it. Whatcha got?

 

[DayOfVengeance]

ha! unfortunately i don't have answers, im looking for them!

i actually wanted to just lay tiles on my concrete and avoid the whole subfloor thing but of course my helper has influenced my decisions!

the space looks amazing, im quite jealous of your high ceilings! i want to convert my loft upstairs to a studio but my gf put a end to that dream

 

[getuhgrip]

Looks like Rick forgot to set his mouth's parking brake again!

Shit! I'll have to email him to find out about the double drywall ceiling thing.

Rick can be like Bruce's evil twin sometimes.

Anyway...Weasle, you said "treat the room as normal." I agree 100% except this is my first rodeo setting up a room for recording. Before I do some excruciating research, how 'bout you, or anybody willing, throw out some info about panels and bass traps.

I'm all for making some cool looking accent stuff, and if some functionality is accomplished at the same time, good for me. I assume hi-freq panels can be of 1X2 or 1X4 construction? What do you fill them with, foam? And then cover in a medium to heavy fabric? What do see as being the "reflection points" in this room?

Bass traps. Where? What style?

I'm going shopping for a pocket door for the closet and an entry door today. Anything stringent about the door? Solid core, I guess?

And what's the deal with lighting? I thought fluorescent tubes were a no-no, but looking through the "show me your studio thread", I saw several folks using them. I'd love to use some 48" tubes, but I'll just go with cans if that's a better idea.

Thanks all.

 

[Weasel9992]

Ah...sorry about that. Here's what you should do:

• Make sure you setup so that you’re firing down the longest dimension of the room.
• Your head should be placed 38% of the way into the room, centered between the left and right walls
• Your head should also be located at the tip of an equilateral triangle with your speakers. Start at a 5’ width and go from there.
• Use at least 4” bass trapping in all the corners, floor to ceiling if possible.
• Use 4” or 6” bass traps on the back wall; the thicker the better basically.
• Use 4” panels behind the speakers on the front wall
• The reflection points to the right, left and above your head can be treated with either 2” or 4” panels. I prefer 4” panels personally; you can never really overdo bass trapping.
• In the case of larger rooms you can use diffusion on the right and left walls near the rear of the room, between your bass traps on the back wall or on the ceiling to the rear of your ceiling panels.

Frank

 

[tom18222]

strap it with resilient channel. much better for sound isolation.

 

[Chili]

Gotta say, I am totally envious of your basement. It'll be great when you're done.

As for double drywall ceiling, yeah, more mass helps a lot. You can get separation by using resilient channel to hang them, as Tom said. RC will get the drywall off the joists so it doesn't transmit energy to the house structure.

The one caveat is weight. 26'x14' is a decent size room and needs maybe 11 or 12 sheets for a single layer and 22 or 23 for two layers. Make sure your joists can bear the weight. 1/2" drywall weights about 50 - 55# each. 1150# total. Just something you should consider.

 

[CMunch]

Hey gripdude.

Ok, first off, in the uk you would have to have two layers of gyproc to give half hour fire protection to comply with building laws, boring shit and who cares eh?


You will have to fix noggins/dwangs whatever you foriners call em to catch the edges of the sheets, probably every 1.2 metres, these will catch the edges of the second layer of gyproc.

Rockwool between joists, foam tape along joists, start first layer of gyproc with a 600mm rip so when you do next layer joints are staggered anyhoo sheet up first layer then caulk all joints, second layer will catch noggins, use 55mm screws and fix at 150mm centers along joists.

Caulk edges, tape and fill, paint a purty color then 'Shake Your Foundations'

 

[getuhgrip]

You will have to fix noggins/dwangs whatever you foriners call em to catch the edges of the sheets, probably every 1.2 metres, these will catch the edges of the second layer of gyproc.

Rockwool between joists, foam tape along joists, start first layer of gyproc with a 600mm rip so when you do next layer joints are staggered anyhoo sheet up first layer then caulk all joints, second layer will catch noggins, use 55mm screws and fix at 150mm centers along joists.

Two brothers seperated by a common language!

Noggins? Dwangs? 600mm rip? You're almost gonna have to draw me a picture, buddy. Seriously.


Can you post a couple pictures showing what you mean as to how to stagger the gyroc?

 

[CMunch]

Two brothers seperated by a common language!

Noggins? Dwangs? 600mm rip? You're almost gonna have to draw me a picture, buddy. Seriously.


Can you post a couple pictures showing what you mean as to how to stagger the gyroc?

No probs bud, I'll get some up for ya tomorrow morning.

 

[CMunch]

Ok bud first up dwangs, these should be 2x2's cut to fit between the bottom edge of your joists, spacing will be according to the width of your gyproc sheets, usually 4ft.

So ya need a row along first wall then a row at 4ft from first wall to the center of dwang, then carry on at 4ft centers.

Mark each end of the room and ping lines with a chalk line.

 

[CMunch]

Scuse the crap pics.

 

[getuhgrip]

Okay, got it. Any reason why the dwangs (firing strips) couldn't be full length pieces screwed to the joists, rather than separate pieces nailed in flush?

In my size room this would save hundreds of cuts and thousands of nails!

Seriously, I'm not concerned about losing a little height in the pursuit of cutting many hours off the installation. Let me know.

And thanks a bunch for the help and drawings.

 

[CMunch]

Okay, got it. Any reason why the dwangs (firing strips) couldn't be full length pieces screwed to the joists, rather than separate pieces nailed in flush?

In my size room this would save hundreds of cuts and thousands of nails!

Seriously, I'm not concerned about losing a little height in the pursuit of cutting many hours off the installation. Let me know.

And thanks a bunch for the help and drawings.

Yep, if you ain't bothered about height fix 2x2 'firring pieces' to joists with a thin foam tape between.

You would still need short firing pieces at sheet ends.

Doing it this way I would use one layer of gyproc.

There is another way to fix these firing pieces that has less contact with the joists but it involves using twice as many lengths, probably OTT for what you need but lemme know.