Worth Upgrading Electronics?

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Steve Henningsgard

Steve Henningsgard

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I know we have a few knowledgeable electronics nerds and luthiers around here: how much of a difference do the electronics make when it comes to guitar tone? I know pickups can change a lot of the character of the tone, but what about the wiring itself? Quality of/ohmage of the pots? How about those conductive strips/paints?

I know different wiring schemes and pickup types can make a huge difference: I'm talking more of the fine details/little stuff.

Thanks!
 
My present project is putting a Line6 variax with a fast neck...the electronics in that are better at getting tones than anything Ive ever had.
 
According to internet tone lore, anything you change will make a difference, including changing the copper wire for other copper wire of a different gauge. Some guys even believe that cloth covered wire is part of "vintage tone".... Most seem to believe that the dime sized import pots are inferior, but IMO they work fine, and there is no need to change them. They use the same type of resistance element as the slightly more expensive CTS or other brands; I cannot believe that there is any difference in "tone" between a 500K CTS brand and 500K import pot.

Volume pots - the lower the value of the pot, the greater the overall load on the guitar's pickups (assuming passive pickups). The common values are 250K and 500K for both volume and tone; there is an audible difference - the 250K will attenuate the highs a little. In a single coil Fender, which has plenty of highs anyway, some guys prefer that. Personally I use 500K on everything both volume and tone. I tame any excess highs at the amp, or sometimes with the guitar's tone pot. YMMV

Caps - with the tone control all the way up, the type of cap should not make any difference whatsoever. The value of the cap determines how much highs are cut; the higher the value, the more dramatic the change the tone control makes; the lower its "crossover" freq. is. Some say they hear a difference with the type of cap using the same value, like paper in oil vs. ceramic disc.

Wire - some say that changing out the "connecting" wire makes a difference, like using 18 gauge wire sounds better than 22 or 24 gauge wire. I do not believe it. A pickup has something like a mile of tiny human hair sized wire; the gauge of the 6 or 12" or so of wire connecting the pots, switch, output jack just can't be significant enough to make an audible difference. I would say if someone changes wire and says it improved the tone, they fixed a bad solder joint ( which can trash tone) in the process. That, or they put new strings on at the same time, and mistakenly attributed the change to the new wiring and not the brand new strings.

The conductive paint is a method of shielding the guitar's control cavity, like using a foil. Some vintage tone nuts say that adding any shielding causes capacitance which will attenuate highs or whatever. Yes, any 2 conductors in proximity can cause capacitance, including the human body, but I am very skeptical that it would cause enough capacitance to affect audible frequencies, although admittedly I have not attempted to measure it. Most consider shielding to be a good thing, since it reduces noise, which is audible.

As you sift thru stuff you read on the internet, one thing that I would strongly suggest that you keep in mind. Be skeptical of any reviews of an "upgrade" that is usually accompanied with a change of strings; i.e., new bridge, saddles, nut, electronics/wiring, etc.
 
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Perhaps not in tone, but in longevity and "feel", there's a difference between pots. I wouldn't replace a small pot with a big one for a tonal upgrade but I would not install a small pot unless it's switched or the space is incredibly tight. (By small and large I mean physically, you can switch values to taste)

Shielding is only a good thing. IMO, it's one of the best things you can do. Less interference at the guitar means less noise down the track. If you don't paint the entire cavity (including the pickup routes), at the very least make sure you're using shielded wire runs from the pickups and to the output jack, and have the wiring as short as possible where possible.

Some of the factory wiring jobs are simply shit, and use really long runs, bad soldering and really cheap flimsy wire. It's good feng shui to swap them out if nothing else.

I prefer using cloth wire and big pots simply because they are easy to worth with and look great.
 
Good solder joints are (imo) the most critical part of any electronic mod, even super hot pups will sound weak if you don't make good conections.
 
Good solder joints are (imo) the most critical part of any electronic mod, even super hot pups will sound weak if you don't make good conections.
YES! I would hope that goes without saying, but sadly, it doesn't. Solder joints are possibly more important than anything else - no point having awesome wiring and parts if the soldering holding them together is no good.
 
Great advice, thanks guys! I'm starting to notice that the general consensus answers to most of the questions I have, generally line up with basic common sense (although not always, especially when it comes to electronics!).

It's interesting that you mention bad solder joints as a culprit of tone suckage (literally and metaphorically): one of the guitars I've been thinking of totally gutting as far as electronics, was mangled & scotch taped together in the electronics cavity when I got it. I've tried to fix things up in there, but there's so much extra solder and general stupidity going on that I'll very likely be starting from scratch in there.

If any of you would be willing: where/what would you recommend as far as getting completely new electronics for a late-80's dual-humbucker, single-volume, single-tone, 3-way-switch Charvel 750xl? Part of me would like to install a five-way switch, if I'm going to be starting from scratch anyway, but I don't know if I need long/short pots or anything...
 
It's interesting that you mention bad solder joints as a culprit of tone suckage (literally and metaphorically)
Actually, bad solder joints will more likely result in intermittent signal, crackling noise, and hum than any sort of tone alteration other than maybe coming from the tone pot being intermittent.
 
A cool thing about using a 5 way switch with dual humbuckers is you can wire two of the positions to opperate like a coil tap. For example, position 1- single coil neck pup, position 2- humbucker neck pup, position 3- both humbuckers, position 4-humbucker bridge pup, position 5- single coil bridge pup. I'm sure there are other ways you could wire a 5 way switch with 2 humbuckers but I know this way works, I've done it. It's fairly easy using a standard strat 5 way switch, I think I found the wireing diagram on the Seymore Duncan wireing site.
 
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