11.5' x 8.5'x 92" good modes???

  • Thread starter Thread starter role65
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any ideas... other than my original drawing?
anything to look out for?
need more pics?
What effect will the block have on the sound even with drywall over it?
Ryan
 
Ok, how about this? What about not building out to the support pole(only out 1-2' for access to storage heater and furnace) but build the pole into the wall between control and live rooms.
 

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ok my plan was to just use firing strips and probably no insulation between the drywall and block....I'm making an assumption that leaving the block exposed with several absorbers is a bad idea...

Panda on the drawing...
I need a way to (God forbid) to get my furnance or water heater out if need be... hence the storage...Your the pole is smack dab in the middle though i could build a wall like you suggest... let me try something real quick...
post in a few...
Ryan
 
Maybe?

another thought... thanks to panda ... construction can be tricky working my main wall around. But doable...
Ryan
 

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What about double doors behind the furnace/storage heater? Like so:
 

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Panda appreciate the help. After sealing my block ( which has the most harmful freakin fumes) i realized the water pipes are just to noisy to use that part as a live room...

next question i work for a concrete rail tie manufacture. We have a lot of neoprene around here... there is a set that is 7' tall 8" thick 12" wide and is 45' angle...would these work for bass traps? how is neoprene for bass, oh it's FREAKING heavy too 70+ pounds... it would be free to me... have no idea if it is open or closed cell. it is used to dampen the the impact of trains going over concrete crossings... hence the name "damp stick".

I wasn't planning on using RC, but we have a bunch of 1/2 thick neoprene that i was going to cut into 1 1/2" strips and put on my joist under the drywall. wasting time or will that help decouple the ceiling at all?

Ryan
 
i work for a concrete rail tie manufacture. We have a lot of neoprene around here... We have a lot of neoprene around here... there is a set that is 7' tall 8" thick 12" wide and is 45' angle...would these work for bass traps?
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Sorry, no. This type of product is for decoupling. If its neoprene, there would be NO cells, regardless. Neoprene used for the type of application described is a solid core with an ENGINEERED DUROMETER RATING.

how is neoprene for bass, oh it's FREAKING heavy too 70+ pounds... it would be free to me... have no idea if it is open or closed cell
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Actually, I would bet this is not neoprene. I'd submit it is a product called Sylomer...:eek: http://www.soundown.com/Sylomer/Resilient_Bedding_of_Buildings_Brochure.pdf

and if it is, ...man, if you do get it free, I know some people that would like to talk to you:D That stuff ain't cheap. The reason is, Sylomer comes in
17 Sylomer durometers are calculated to fit any design and installation.
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It's almost impossible to predict DIY applications of neoprene. The compression vs weight ratio MUST be within a certain range or it can actually make things worse...at least for LOW FREQUENCY TRANSMISSION. And since you are using for HANGING drywall, there would be no such "compression" .Which leads to this....
I wasn't planning on using RC, but we have a bunch of 1/2 thick neoprene that i was going to cut into 1 1/2" strips and put on my joist under the drywall. wasting time or will that help decouple the ceiling at all?
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No. Use the RC. Much cheaper and easier to use. The problem with the strip idea is two fold. First, the strips must be fastened to the joist in such a way that the fasteners that hold the drywall to the "decouplers" do NOT touch the joists. I don't have a clue how you would impliment this. Heres the idea. Thiese are but one of many products available...but they're not cheap. RC is.

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BTW, Before you hang your ceiling drywall, I'd suggest you place a couple of layers of drywall BETWEEN THE JOISTS, to add mass to the floor membrane above. Use screws and caulk all the joints.
fitZ
 
Fitz,

It's for sure neoprene...I bought it ( purchasing manager) but we had samples that we can't use for the rail b/c they are not certified... as far as the strips go I thought it may be better than using nothing at all, yes i would still have to screw into the joist with the drywall, i'm not looking for total isolation just enough not to drive the wife nuts @ 11:00 at night. i guess i'll just not use them... will it work for anything? diffusers etc? it has such great mechanical dampening properties that i thought it might work for sound... it's all 60 duro...

Ryan
 
as far as the strips go I thought it may be better than using nothing at all, yes i would still have to screw into the joist with the drywall,
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No, it would not. In fact, when you fasten the drywall directly to the joists, the neoprene basically becomes useless. Better to double up on the mass via another layer of drywall. Lining the joist cavities with a couple of caulked layers will help as well. Of course, this is assuming things like ductwork, pipes, etc etc won't create flanking paths that will negate all your hard work and money on the ceiling. Remember, any WEAK LINK will determine the best transmission loss you will get. Doors, thresholds, air leaks, etc all have a bearing on the WHOLE.

fitZ
 
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