G
Guitarer
New member
yes, that is why I suggested it.
Lt. Bob
Spread the Daf!
cool .......... but you hadn't said that before which is why I asked.
crazydoc
Master Baiter
Here's a simple idea - so simple there must be something wrong with it. 
Wire a pot (say anywhere fom 1K to 500K) across your speaker/cab's terminals. Send the wiper lead (with a common ground lead) to the line input of whatever amp/device you want to further amplify your sound.
That way you've got the original setup putting out sound, with the proper load, and a line level output to an accessory amp/cab of any wattage you desire. You're not going to harm either unit. And even if the other unit were solid state, it would be amplifying the tube sound from the VJ.
Wire a pot (say anywhere fom 1K to 500K) across your speaker/cab's terminals. Send the wiper lead (with a common ground lead) to the line input of whatever amp/device you want to further amplify your sound.
That way you've got the original setup putting out sound, with the proper load, and a line level output to an accessory amp/cab of any wattage you desire. You're not going to harm either unit. And even if the other unit were solid state, it would be amplifying the tube sound from the VJ.
ocnor
Lord Of The Thighs
Here's a simple idea - so simple there must be something wrong with it.
Wire a pot (say anywhere fom 1K to 500K) across your speaker/cab's terminals. Send the wiper lead (with a common ground lead) to the line input of whatever amp/device you want to further amplify your sound.
That way you've got the original setup putting out sound, with the proper load, and a line level output to an accessory amp/cab of any wattage you desire. You're not going to harm either unit. And even if the other unit were solid state, it would be amplifying the tube sound from the VJ.
I'm no expert but I believe that would change the impedance as well as BBQ the pot.
G
ggunn
Crystal Flavolian
Here's a simple idea - so simple there must be something wrong with it.
Wire a pot (say anywhere fom 1K to 500K) across your speaker/cab's terminals. Send the wiper lead (with a common ground lead) to the line input of whatever amp/device you want to further amplify your sound.
That way you've got the original setup putting out sound, with the proper load, and a line level output to an accessory amp/cab of any wattage you desire. You're not going to harm either unit. And even if the other unit were solid state, it would be amplifying the tube sound from the VJ.
That's pretty much what the line level output on a power soak does. A possible problem is that enough current will flow through the pot to blow it up. Let's see, a 10 watt amp into an 8 ohm load gives you... <ciper, cipher> about 9 volts across the speaker terminals. 9 volts across a 1K pot puts 9mA through the pot, which gives you about 81 mW that the pot has to be able to dissipate as heat, if my back of the envelope math is correct. The power that the pot has to dissipate goes up as the square root of the power from the amp and linearly down as the value of the pot goes up (again, if my math is correct, and it's been a long time), so the higher the resistance of the pot, the better.
It should work.
rayc
retroreprobate
Could work BUT you'd have to consider any changes to the soound as a result of the pot.
Most attenuators colour or degrade sound to some degree & that's after they've been specially tested & selected.
Mic the VJ or see if you can get it modded with a line out.
Most attenuators colour or degrade sound to some degree & that's after they've been specially tested & selected.
Mic the VJ or see if you can get it modded with a line out.
S
soulsonic
New member
I would recommend the Weber 25watt Low Powered Load Dump for this application before I'd recommend the MicroMass.
https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/lpld.htm
Please trust me on this - the MicroMass is junky and inconsistently built. The Low Powered Load Dump is simple and consistent and should work painlessly with your setup. If you have any further questions regarding this, please don't hesistate to PM me.
https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/lpld.htm
Please trust me on this - the MicroMass is junky and inconsistently built. The Low Powered Load Dump is simple and consistent and should work painlessly with your setup. If you have any further questions regarding this, please don't hesistate to PM me.
crazydoc
Master Baiter
Yeah, I just pulled the resistance values out of my ass. So let's say anything above 10k (out of my ass again.
)I don't think a 1K ohm or greater resistance in parallel with 8 ohms is going to make any audible difference. It is not working as a series wired attenuator, but as a voltage divider.
The point of my suggestion is that you don't have to have any dummy load for the VJ - it's output is into a speaker cab that already has the correct impedance (4, 8, or 16 ohms.) The potentiometer is merely to pick off a signal that is approximately line level, so as not to overload the input of the subsequent pre/amp.
S
soulsonic
New member
crazydoc said:
But my point is that judging by this post...
...he won't be capable of DIYing anything, so he may as well go with the simplest and most straight-ahead solution. The Load Dump can be bypassed entirely and its line out still functions. And the bonus is that he has a decent cheap attenuator to use for low-volume situations.
crazydoc
Master Baiter
You're quite correct - I got sidetracked
P
projekt_420
New member
Thanks guys.
Gidge
Lapdance Test Dummy
can't you just mike the cab into the PA for a tad more volume?....
strangedogs
New member
Lt. Bob
Spread the Daf!
I suggested that way early in the thread but he said for some reason that's not always possible.that's my suggestion too
P
Paj
Well-known member
Use a padded DI or H-K red box
You get everything you deserve if you send a speaker output into a preamplifier or amplifier input. I've even seen headphone outputs (which are actually very low-powered speaker outputs) take out preamps. Also, keep the load on that amp (I love the puff of smoke comment above!).
Since the PE60 accepts LoZ input and has a volume control and eq, here's a lot simpler and less expensive solution: Any passive padded DI that allows speaker line tapping.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/ART-PDB-Passive-Direct-Box?sku=180608
Or a Hughes & Kettner "red box".
The DI geos "in between" the amp and the speaker, and the LoZ output goes to the PE60. Generally, the pad is set to the largest -ve value. You most likely will need to cut the amp output wire at a certain point and create a tap point. It's not difficult.
amp output >> DI input >> Link/Thru feature/jack >> speaker
................................>> PAD >> LoZ output >> PE60 input
Paj
8^)
You get everything you deserve if you send a speaker output into a preamplifier or amplifier input. I've even seen headphone outputs (which are actually very low-powered speaker outputs) take out preamps. Also, keep the load on that amp (I love the puff of smoke comment above!).
Since the PE60 accepts LoZ input and has a volume control and eq, here's a lot simpler and less expensive solution: Any passive padded DI that allows speaker line tapping.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/ART-PDB-Passive-Direct-Box?sku=180608
Or a Hughes & Kettner "red box".
The DI geos "in between" the amp and the speaker, and the LoZ output goes to the PE60. Generally, the pad is set to the largest -ve value. You most likely will need to cut the amp output wire at a certain point and create a tap point. It's not difficult.
amp output >> DI input >> Link/Thru feature/jack >> speaker
................................>> PAD >> LoZ output >> PE60 input
Paj
8^)