Stripping/finishing guitars

  • Thread starter Thread starter daav
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daav

daav

Flailing up a storm.
I think i am going to try to take the finish off my made in japan strat, since it is the uglies guitar in the universe.

What would you do to remove the finish? TYhat greeen stuff, straight sanding?

I want to finish is natural, and buy a wired pickguard with vintage noiseless PUPS to round out the redux on this guitar. What kind of finishing would you do?

Thanks,
Daav
 
What green stuff?
I'd recommend using a standard paint stripper. Just be sure to use it in a well ventilated area and keep it from getting on your clothes/hands/things you don't want to be burned (first time I used this stuff, I got some on my pants and didn't think anything of it. Three minutes later my leg's burning like hell and I'm regretting not being more careful). Once you get it down to the wood, all that needs to be done is a bit of light fine sanding and you should be good to go.
 
What green stuff?
I'd recommend using a standard paint stripper. Just be sure to use it in a well ventilated area and keep it from getting on your clothes/hands/things you don't want to be burned (first time I used this stuff, I got some on my pants and didn't think anything of it. Three minutes later my leg's burning like hell and I'm regretting not being more careful). Once you get it down to the wood, all that needs to be done is a bit of light fine sanding and you should be good to go.

I got it wrong, not green, but orange, like this stuff:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6490

Supposedly much less toxic. I guess this is a good place to start. I just wasn;t sure if someone would say that the finish on factory guitars was too thick and needed sandblasting or something.
 
Trust me don't do it. Save yourself time money and effort and buy another Japanese start in Natural.

For starters there is lots of information facts and opinions here about the merits of refinishing. Read it. Also, if you get the finish off there is no way of knowing what the timber looks like under the finish you have. Is it a solid colour now? If so its solid for a reason.

Finishing a guitar to an acceptable level is not easy, Refinishing is even harder. You have been warned.
 
I stripped my mexican fat strat down to find a huge crack running through the whole body. will never buy another mexican strat.
 
Just a side note...... as you smear paint thinner all over your guitar. Wood is porous...... stuff absorbs into it..... do you want your guitar full of thinner? Secondly..... how many pieces of wood is your guitar? Do you know HOW to refinish in a nice natural? Are you prepared to find all kinds of crap that you were better off not knowing?(cracks, shitty grain, etc.).


Just a warning. I have been down this road, and made those mistakes.


Simon
 
The Japanese Strats were finished in a finish that is just about impervious to any stripper ever made. Very labor intensive sanding is the only way and not at all worth the effort. If the color is solid, you are guaranteed to find an ugly piece of wood under the finish. Probably one consisting of 3-5 pieces of ugly wood joined together. Buy a used body or try getting one from Warmouth etc.

BTW...What year is the guitar? Some of the earlier Japanese Strats are becoming somewhat sought after. I had an '86 (olympic white w/rosewood) that was a pretty nice guitar. Too bad I destroyed it.
 
The Japanese Strats were finished in a finish that is just about impervious to any stripper ever made. Very labor intensive sanding is the only way and not at all worth the effort. If the color is solid, you are guaranteed to find an ugly piece of wood under the finish. Probably one consisting of 3-5 pieces of ugly wood joined together. Buy a used body or try getting one from Warmouth etc.

BTW...What year is the guitar? Some of the earlier Japanese Strats are becoming somewhat sought after. I had an '86 (olympic white w/rosewood) that was a pretty nice guitar. Too bad I destroyed it.

Impervious is the right word. If you MUST refin, just lightly sand enough to make the new paint stick. You will not like the results of a full stripping. My 81 MIJ Tele will attest to that.
 
Trust me don't do it. Save yourself time money and effort and buy another Japanese start in Natural.


Excellent advice. Listen to it.


If, however, you want to do just for the experience, well, striping the shit off of those things is a real pain in the ass. If you do it, use Citristrip, as it is much less caustic than most other strippers. I can't actually promise that it will do anything, as the finish on those things is pretty impervious to chemicals. But even once you DO get down to wood, even if the wood was once attractive, you aren't likely to want to finish it natural, because you will need to sand off all of the finish which is embedded in the pours of the wood, and by the time your done with that you will probably changed the guitars shape from sanding off so much wood.

As for the refinishing of the guitar, I'll tell you what I always tell everyone. Buy Dan Erlewine's book, and do what he tells you to do. For finish material, do not try to use nitrocellulose lacquer. It is too dangerous to use if you don't have appropriate facilities. Use either LMI's KTM-9 or Stew-Mac's Waterborne Lacquer.

This is the same advice Muttley and I have given time and again on this board, which means you have two experienced guitar builders giving you the same advice; if you don't like your guitar the way it is, you are probably better off buying a new guitar than refinishing it. If your going to do it, do it safely, take the time to do it right, and most of all spend a little bit of money to buy a book which will tell you how to do it far better than anyone on the internet ever could.


Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
If you are determined to do it, we can't stop you. Be careful, use heavy industrial strength rubber (not latex) gloves, eye protection, and very good ventilation or a respirator. The chemicals in strippers are dangerous in several ways, some are flammable, some carcinogenic, some cause nerve damage, then you have to consider what they are releasing from the finish they are dissolving (some materials used in finishes are even more toxic.) If the guitar has a catalyzed finish (very tough, contains various hardeners and other agents to make it more durable) the strippers you can get at paint or hardware store wont have much affect on it. Many guitars have a grain filler/sealer coat under the finish coat which may require a different type of stripper from the finish. I spent 17 years refinishing furniture (tried a few guitars along the way) and had several bad experiences with stripper so please take my advice and be careful whenever using and disposing of any of them.
 
refinishing ?

in my experince ... using strippers ...... some times the stripper can soak into the wood ... then when you seal and clear the wood some of the chemicals in the stripper can be reactivated and stain your finish .... when i strip a body i prefer to sand it to remove the finish ........ but i have all the corect tools to do a job like that .. ie ... 3, 6, 12, inch da sanders ... a proper spray booth to shoot laquer ...... and most important .... years of experince ........... so in your case ..... consider the price of a new finished body ..... it will be cheaper in the end .......
 
DAAV,

Two things,

One: You've piqued my curiosity. Just what makes your guitar "the ugliest in the universe"? I'd like to remind you that the Flying V, Explorer, Paisley Tele, and many others were unsuccessful during their introductory runs because they were thought to be ugly. Foto-Flame finishes and the like are seeing an increase in collectors value now. If your guitar is that ugly it might be worth preserving as is.

Knowing about your guitar as a mechanical device will make you a better musician. Get Erlewines even if you decide not to proceed. Buy a book on modding electric guitars while you're at it. It will be money well spent even if you never choose to bugger up a guitar.
 
After having too difficult a time stripping my first guitar I decided to pass the next one on to a pro builder friend who interestingly managed to get all the paint off with a heat gun and a putty knife. It still wasnt easy he said , but it did accomplish what my stripper and elbow grease alone could not do.

Before you go either route however , I'd enter the term "strat body" on Ebay and see how many new replacement bodies pop up for well under $100. Spend a bit more (like in the $150 range) and you can even get something really fancy with a pro burst finish over a quilted maple or flame top.
 
DAAV,

Two things,

One: You've piqued my curiosity. Just what makes your guitar "the ugliest in the universe"? I'd like to remind you that the Flying V, Explorer, Paisley Tele, and many others were unsuccessful during their introductory runs because they were thought to be ugly. Foto-Flame finishes and the like are seeing an increase in collectors value now. If your guitar is that ugly it might be worth preserving as is.

Knowing about your guitar as a mechanical device will make you a better musician. Get Erlewines even if you decide not to proceed. Buy a book on modding electric guitars while you're at it. It will be money well spent even if you never choose to bugger up a guitar.

Basically, it is the finsih that is ugly, not the guitar itself, it is off-white with plenty of dings and scratches from my earlier days when i didn't know how to take care of stuff.

Great advice from many here, my plan was to repaint if the wood was ugly. I might save myself the trouble and look for a replacement body after all, or jsut skip the natural wood thing and go striaght to repainting.

Thanks all,
Dave
 
in my experince ... using strippers ...... some times the stripper can soak into the wood ... then when you seal and clear the wood some of the chemicals in the stripper can be reactivated and stain your finish .... when i strip a body i prefer to sand it to remove the finish ........ but i have all the corect tools to do a job like that .. ie ... 3, 6, 12, inch da sanders ... a proper spray booth to shoot laquer ...... and most important .... years of experince ........... so in your case ..... consider the price of a new finished body ..... it will be cheaper in the end .......

First of all, they're called grammar, punctuation, and capitalization. Use them, their your friend.

Second of all, you need to neutralize the stripper after you have striped the guitar. A scrubbing and bath in naphtha will do it for most strippers, but you could also use acetone if you felt like it. Do this in a well ventilated area, of course, and have a chemical fire rated fire extinguisher handy just in case, but if you use it you should never have any problems with left over strippers.

Wait, is there a problem with left over strippers?

Oh, sorry, wrong thread.


Anyway....



Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Last edited:
strippers ??

i have done the acetone thing ... and still had a stain in a white finish .... i doubt i will use stripper on a wood or fiberglass body again ..... looking around the shop from my desk i can see 4 chemical fire extinguishers ... beteween the spray booth,the storage room,and the showroom probably another 6 or 8 of em
 

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i have done the acetone thing ... and still had a stain in a white finish .... i doubt i will use stripper on a wood or fiberglass body again ..... looking around the shop from my desk i can see 4 chemical fire extinguishers ... beteween the spray booth,the storage room,and the showroom probably another 6 or 8 of em
Using chemical strippers is fine. You should always follow the manufacturers instructions and carry out any post stripper surface preperation. With nearly all timbers (even open grain species) the depth to which any residue will penetrate is minute. Chemical strippers are often more effective than heat and even mechanical stripping neither of which will allow you to remove finish trapped in the surface grain. The manufacturer of the stripper will tell you what wash chemicals you need to use to neutralise the stripper, normally acetone or with some stripper a mild caustic solution. If you have stains or blushing in or under the finish and have prepared the surface correctly the cause is normally incorrect finish application or environment control. I'm not suggesting you are lax here just that that is the usual cause.
 
strippers

yeah i am quick to blame the strippers ....... i have done probably a hundred jobs w/ stripper and 2 had some stains bleeding through ............. however since i stoped using stripper i have not had any bleeding through ...... those 2 could have been me screwing up somewhere ????
 
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