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Thread: Studio Building-If you had to do it all over again...

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggaluggs View Post
    I wouldn't go series 500. It made sense a few years ago because I thought it would be compact and give me flexibility to change modules I didn't care for. I think regular rack units give you more bang for the buck. Especially now that more vendors are making quality stuff that's available at reasonable prices.
    This time around, I decided to go almost completely rackless. I wanted to try pure simplicity to see if it would improve workflow, outcomes, etc. So I'm working with an interface (Apogee Duet) and sometimes an external preamp (Great River Me1nv). The rest is just Logic and Plugins. Most of those are native to logic and a few are Waves. The rest is just the room, some decent microphones (AT5050, Soundeluxe U195, Shure SM7B, Shure SM81, Rode stereo NT4XY), and what passes for talent.

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    If I do things again, I'd probably stay away from two inch panels. My small and square room experience has led me to believe (rightly or wrongly) that they don't do a lot. It's really all about controlling the low end and bass trapping. And that takes width. So I'd just start with bass traps at the first reflection points and elsewhere. Again, this is based on small and square room experience. Two inch panels may work in decent rooms and they also work for spot treatments. It's just not for me.

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    And If it happens again...

    I'm measuring the room empty before I start and measuring every step of the way. I know that bugs the Luddites, but I'm going down that path. And the first thing in my room are four giant super chunk bass traps floor to ceiling.

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    acoustics-jpg

    Not from my own observations, but from quoted figures off the interweb. Mostly from the manufacturer. the 4" acoustimac does seem more effective below 400Hz than the 2". The 6" has a weird curve.

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    Always put in more cables than you think you will ever need then add some CAT6, pref' shielded and a couple of blue plastic ropes to pull through some more.

    Dave.

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    KISS.
    Focus on the fundamentals and don't dwell on the esoteric.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggaluggs View Post
    acoustics-jpg

    Not from my own observations, but from quoted figures off the interweb. Mostly from the manufacturer. the 4" acoustimac does seem more effective below 400Hz than the 2". The 6" has a weird curve.
    As I said, most of this will change with room dimensions, and there is a place for some 2" panels. But, since controlling the low end is so crucial, playing with 2" panels is like adding mustard to a hot dog. It's happens after the thing is in the bun and not everyone likes or needs mustard. Of course, if you ever see a picture of a hot dog, it's very likely to have mustard.

    They just don't perform that well in the low end. And if you have a problem room, 2" panels are like using a whiffle ball bat when you need a Louisville Slugger. Besides, while 2" panels won't get you a lot of mileage in the low end, many bass traps (depending on how they are built) have high end absorption qualities.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ecc83 View Post
    Always put in more cables than you think you will ever need then add some CAT6, pref' shielded and a couple of blue plastic ropes to pull through some more.

    Dave.
    I'm thinking of some blue plastic rope in case I' have to hang myself. Sometimes, recording can just drive you nuts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Buggaluggs View Post

    Not from my own observations, but from quoted figures off the interweb. Mostly from the manufacturer. the 4" acoustimac does seem more effective below 400Hz than the 2". The 6" has a weird curve.
    The other thing to consider if you are thinking about buying or building traps, is the thickness and density. If you look at results from an absorption calculator or actual experience, the prevailing wisdom seems to be that compressed products like OC 703 work well up to about 6-8" or so. After that, really thick traps can make use of attic insulation and what the gear heads call "pink fluffy." It's cheaper and seems to perform better--at least at larger thicknesses. You may run into people that tell you not to use regular insulation. But my reading suggests that this is one of those "advice myths." There are a lot of them out there.

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    If I had to do it all over again, I would put a four inch air gap between all my bass traps (corners excluded) and the wall. Air space should improve performance. It may only be a db or two, but this is a game of inches. Every little counts.

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