Just to be clear, there are really two main parts of an "alignment", the mechanical alignment (which is in two distinct chunks: adjusting the tape path so the tape runs center on the heads and isn't pulled/kinked/bound anywhere and isn't rubbing on the tape reel flanges, and adjusting the wrap, height, zenith and azimuth of the heads), and the electronic alignment (which is sort of in three distinct chunks: adjusting input levels to the deck and tape, adjusting output levels from tape, and adjusting the bias).
Mechanical alignment:
- Unless you are really having a problem, don't mess with the heads, and if you are having a problem and you know it is a head adjustment issue and you aren't comfortable messing with them, take it to a pro. Bad stuff can happen if you don't know what you are doing, and, depending on how the heads mount to the headblock it is possible or likely that the height and zenith are fixed (i.e. be careful not to blame a factor if it isn't even adjustable) and you can only mess with the wrap and azimuth...furthermore, if the deck hasn't been messed with and the heads have an even wear pattern that is an extra "leave me alone" sign.
- A properly adjusted tape path is pretty key to a lot of factors, so I'd take a look at that. Your manual (BTW if you don't have one, get one. It will be your best friend) should tell you how to do this and in what order, but generally I adjust the height of the tape guides first so that the tape is running center on the heads, then I adjust the tension arm heights so that the tape pulls evenly and smoothly through the capstan shaft and pinch roller as well as over the other rollers (if applicable...tach, idler(s), etc.), and then lastly I adjust the height of the reel tables so that the tape winds center on the reel hubs and doesn't rub on the flanges. A reading/magnifying glass helps with this along with a good bright LED flashlight.
Electronic alignment:
Again, refer to your manual. If you want to get into this you will need some way to confirm levels going into and coming out of your deck using a known calibrated level meter. Otherwise you will have no way of confirming what reference level to which you are calibrating. You
can use a good digital multimeter for this, but you need to confirm that the meter can handle the frequency bandwidth of the levels and frequencies you are testing. Most run-of-the-mill DMM's can't handle a very wide frequency band...they aren't built for audio applications. You
can use your PC as a test tone generator. I do this and it works well, bearing in mind that you will need to be able to boost/attenuate the tone and have some way to confirm the level (in this case that would be -10dBu for your Model 80). Once you have a tone at a known level it is a matter of adjusting your levels to tape and adjusting the meters. You will need, as Avieth mentioned, a test or calibration tape for setting the output levels. You can do bias without a cal tape...check...the...manual.
Did I say "best friend"?
Now, does this sound like a lot?? Maybe a little overwhelming?
Take it from me, unless you have a sick passion for tweakering, and as long as the deck looks good when you get it and more importantly if it
sounds "good", use it for awhile. Get to know it. Do the things you mentioned (clean it up, demag it) and then try it out...otherwise you may spend 2 years in your precious spare time tweakering for questionable gain...I'm speaking from experience.
Unless, as I said above, you have a sick passion for tweakering and part of the fun is learning how it all works and getting it into as good a condition as possible (I would be describing myself here), then try it out...have fun with it and you'll learn what really needs attention and you can go from there.
What brand/make of demag unit did you get?
Another tip: as an alternative to cotton swabs for cleaning, try 100% cotton makeup remover pads, the kind that look quilty. They do a better job of cleaning the nooks and crannies of the tape path than the swabs IMO. Not my idea, like everything in my head it came from somebody else.
I understand why you referred to aligning as a "hideous" task. I was in quite the same shoes as you 2 years ago when I picked up
a Tascam 58 and a 48. I've learned a ton in the past couple years. Best advice I received regarding that process several times along the way was "Take your time...take it one step at a time. Have fun...you'll get it." I guess that is reall 4 bits but they go together seamlessly.
Now...how else can we help?
Congrats on the purchase BTW, and welcome!
