Would this be enough volume?

  • Thread starter Thread starter elenore19
  • Start date Start date
Flangerhans said:
Well, you obviously don't really care about the info, you're just spoiling for a fight. Not going to get it here. You are right, have fun being so. Now run off and find someone else who hasn't gotten laid in the past year and play nice with them.
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It's obvious you don't know and aren't familiar with Outlaws, he knows his amps, he knows what he's talking about and isn't the type to start an arguement.
 
Flangerhans said:
Well, here's my two cents worth, coming from someone who's played through tube amplifiers of all sorts over 30 years, in a few punk bands over the years.

You want point-to-point wiring. Not because it makes any difference in the sound, not because it looks cool when you take the amp apart, but because you can repair it if it breaks. This may not seem important now, but you may someday be getting ready to play and find that your amp is not working. If you have a circuit board in it, it's difficult to repair quickly, sometimes impossible to repair at all, but point-to-point will be pretty straightforward for anyone who has electronic chops to work with.

You want tubes, not because they sound "warm" or "analog", but because they can be replaced, overdrive better and don't burn up doing so, and build up your arms from carrying your amp around so you can someday look like Henry Rollins.

You want an amp with less than 50 watts, and probably less than 25 unless you plan on playing the Superbowl without miking up. If all of your distortion comes from boxes, and you play death metal, you may disregard this advice, but if you want a good sounding distortion out of a tube amp, turn the thing up past halfway and overdrive your power tubes. You'll like what happens.

Finally, if you really want to sound good, consider the whole system. Humbuckers in your guitar or single-coils? Distortion box or overdrive, or nothing at all? Do you use delay? Chorus? Each of these choices make certain amps better than others, although a great amp will sound good with just about anything run into it. Closed back cabinets will make you have a midrange "knock", open back combos will sound more natural, but no advice can take the place of your ears. Take what stuff you use, all of it, and try the amp out on a variety of settings. Annoy the salesmen at Guitar Center, and fiddle about with everything they have in the shop, even stuff you can't afford, to get an idea of what works for you. You might find that you like little steel guitar amps from the 50s, or you might find that only a Gibson is good enough...or you may discover that a triple rec is the only way you'll be happy.

Hope this is useful to you, guy. Have fun playing!
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Thanks for the help. Yeah if I lived anywhere near a place that sold anything, I would go try some things out. I live at least 4 hours away from a guitar center and at least 2 hours away from a small crappy shmitts music store...So yeah.

Yeah, I'll look for some low wattage tube heads, but the thing is I'm on a budget definitely, so I'm thinking I'll go cheap now, and then save up later. Or who knows, I'm not deciding anything for a while still..But thanks for the advice and help
 
Happy to be of service. If you want to get a soldering iron hot, I can direct you to a few sites that have amp kits that will save you a bundle, let me know...
 
Flangerhans said:
Sorry right back atcha. Yes, I can remove and replace components on a circuit board, but it ain't no fun under stage lights. I can, however, fix point-to-point in low light, in seconds, when one wire has come loose and is right next to it's connect point.

Have you ever had a circuit board break in half? How do you fix that quickly?

Now go and call B.S on someone who hasn't traveled across the country in a truck with bad shocks to play for 22 people who only want to hear "Sweet Home, Alabama".
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FWIW, I agree with you about PTP/turret/eyelet wiring as opposed to PCB's. I've got a couple of old amps with that kind of wiring that I've done a few mods to, some which worked like I wanted, some that I undid. One amp I didn't have a schematic for, so I drew one up from visual analysis of the circuit; that would have been harder if not impossible from a PCB. I can and have worked with PCB's, but I'd rather work with discrete wiring. DSFDF and YMMV.
 
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Well, I don't want to wake up the rude guy, but I have always found point-to-point easier to work on, and simplicity is good in my book. It seems to travel better, too, and it ages pretty well. I think the preponderance of PCBs is directly related to ease of manufacture, and thus cost effectiveness. I use them in building stuff, don't get me wrong, but not amplifiers.
 
If you are asking if a Peavey Winsdor is loud enough, that DSL 401 40-watt combo isn't going to be enough. I just sold one, and although it sounded pretty good, it just didn't have 40 watts worth of balls. I've gotten similar volume out of a 15w Blues Junior, and my 30w CVR crushed it.
 
BrentDomann said:
If you are asking if a Peavey Winsdor is loud enough, that DSL 401 40-watt combo isn't going to be enough. I just sold one, and although it sounded pretty good, it just didn't have 40 watts worth of balls. I've gotten similar volume out of a 15w Blues Junior, and my 30w CVR crushed it.
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Thats because 15 watts isn't really any less than 40 watts. Its noticeable, but nothing much. Same with 40 watts verses 100. You will notice a slight volume increase, but nothing huge.

The efficiency of the speakers is going play more of a role in the area of volume when comparing two unrelated amps.
 
Flangerhans said:
I think the preponderance of PCBs is directly related to ease of manufacture, and thus cost effectiveness.
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It is. But "PCB" isn't the bad part. People can still build a point to point or turret board with shitty parts.....in fact I think the difficulty in finding a GOOD Marshall from the late 60's to mid 70's is a testament to how shoddy hand wired turret boards can also be.
A blanket statement about one being being better doesn't work, quality is the only part that counts.
 
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