what kind of capacitor
- Thread starter notbradsohner
- Start date
mshilarious
Banned
notbradsohner said:
Those values are kinda big for a ceramic. Poly film would be more typical.
Synkrotron
New member
It's a long time since I built any electronic project (around 1976 in fact) but from what I remember, it doesn't matter... it's the Farads that matter. The range that's mentioned is 0.001 micro Farads and 0.05 micro Farads so I'd just nip into Maplins (or whatever) and pick up what I can within that range.
andy
andy
Synkrotron
New member
yep... sounds right to me... more than likely still polarised at these values (positive and negative connections).
mshilarious
Banned
Synkrotron said:
Nah film caps aren't polarized (probably some exception out there, but generally), perhaps you were thinking of tantalums.
Synkrotron
New member
mshilarious said:
Doh!,
it's been too long dood, and I can't argue lol... I thought film caps where those mini foil jobbies who's wires always broke off right where it did no use...
ah well
notbradsohner
Compression Addict
does this look like everything I need?
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=project._view&projectid=93259
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=project._view&projectid=93259
Synkrotron
New member
notbradsohner said:
that link just asks me to log in at Mouser
notbradsohner
Compression Addict
1. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=211453
2. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=200841
3. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=390097
4. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=357918
2. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=200841
3. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=390097
4. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=357918
notbradsohner
Compression Addict
those are the parts
mshilarious
Banned
notbradsohner said:
The chip is the wrong package, SOIC is surface mount, you want DIP instead.
Try this one:
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=211539&e_categoryid=289&e_pcodeid=51212
The electro cap doesn't need to be bipolar, just get a standard polarized electro and you'll save a few pennies.
You probably would do better with one of these pots:
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=783857&e_categoryid=319&e_pcodeid=03109
Those are chassis mount, solder lug, and use any kind of standard knob you'd find for a guitar.
The film cap is fine.
notbradsohner
Compression Addict
thanks ms! I have no freakin' clue what im doing!!!! woo hoo. The closest ive come to an electronics project is making drum triggers. 
mshilarious
Banned
notbradsohner said:thanks ms! I have no freakin' clue what im doing!!!! woo hoo. The closest ive come to an electronics project is making drum triggers.
No worries, this is a simple project. Is there a PCB layout, or do you have to make one? That would be the trickiest part.
Oh, I just had another look at the schemo, obviously that would be point to point, never mind
Synkrotron
New member
notbradsohner said:thanks ms! I have no freakin' clue what im doing!!!! woo hoo. The closest ive come to an electronics project is making drum triggers.
haha... same here actually... made a complete 12 trigger drum kit which cost me nearly as much as a brand new one
mshilarious
Banned
Light said:
Yeah, good point there, when I started with electronics, the markings on electros made no sense to me--the arrow/stripe points towards the drain, which is the negative side, whereas schematics always label the positive side. So it's kind of counterintuitive.
that cap is either an electrolytic or a tantalum bead cap, id use the tantalum bead because its much smaller and has closer tolerances. It is also less likely to leak. Electrolytic caps tend to break down chemically if they are not used for long periods of time , this can be reversed by a period of charging discharging but if deterioration is too much they will leak when used again.