Tascam 52 Reel to Reel: Anyone know the Power Switch Capacitor and Vu Meter bulb

H

horeq

New member
Hi,

I have the Tascam 52 DB Reel to Reel and I would like to replace the VU meter bulb. Does anyone know the specs and how to install it? Is it a solder in or fuse like bulb?

The Rifa 0.047uF Part: PME265MC547 capacitor that is bridged on the power switch has also blown. Does anyone know what equivalent cap I could use and whether it is an X1 or X2 cap.

Thank you.
 
If the lamps are the same as every other Teac meter from that era it’s a solder-in axial meter 8V lamp. I’ve used these with great success in a variety of Teac and Tascam tape machines and mixing consoles…as well as my Audio Technica AT-RMX64. The only problem is you have to buy a pack of 20. But maybe this will give you a starting point for finding the same thing in a smaller quantity?

https://www.jkllamps.com/DA513?pack...YT-Gk-BWhvd0iag47Uq8EZKMm-h3m2HgaAv_TEALw_wcB

On the cap what do you mean by X1 or X2? And how did it blow? Those things never go out…I believe that’s a polyester film cap. I don’t have the 52 service manual but let me look in the 58 service manual and see what’s there in that application. It’s probably the same part and regardless should be readily available from a number of sources.
 
Okay stand self-corrected…that cap is probably a metalized film cap, 250V. It can be higher voltage tolerance but it’s not necessary.
 
Hi sweetbeats, its a Metallized Paper Cap that is well known for blowing up. I swapped it with a Metal Poly cap, that is for across the line X2.

Your right, its a solder bulb. Good to know what voltage it is. Thanks!
 
Hi sweetbeats, how easy is it to pull the VU apart to access the bulbs to replace?

Also, does the bulbs have a polarity?

Thanks.
 
Well, again, I don’t have your service manual, and have never physically seen or touched a model 52, but on the 58 you drop the meter panel down and then you can access screws on the sides to detach the bracketry. This allows you to swing it to the side or completely pivot it down so you can access brackets that hold the meter PCBs to the panel. Remove the brackets and you can lift the meter assembly away from the panel. The meters themselves Are solder-mounted to the PCB, but the lense is held on to the meter chassis by nothing more than clear tape. Take a sharp razor and cut the tape where the lense meets the chassis and remove or tip up the lense. You can now replace the lamps.

It is a similar procedure for any device, tape machine or console, that has similar meters. You can probably Google “Tascam meter lamp” and get search results and/or links to videos of people showing the procedure.

As far as polarity, I think it depends? Somebody told me it doesn’t matter? And for all the useless knowledge I’ve gathered over the years I’ve never actually teased this out. I recall I had an experience some years ago where it mattered and maybe it depends on whether or not the power supply for the lamps is DC or AC and whether or not the lamps are powered in pairs, series or parallel…all I know is one time it didn’t work and I had to flip one or one of them burned out…so my solution has always been just put the new ones in the way the old ones were installed. There is a rib at one end of the lamp to mark the polarity. So just identify that on the old ones and install the new lamps in the same orientation. Here is a picture highlighting what a typical ribbed end looks like:

876085C6-88F2-4474-8481-CBFF032F3785.jpeg
 
I have the service manual, but it does not show how to pull apart the VU, nor does it have an exploded view of the VU only.

Thanks, that info will be useful as I have ordered replacement 8v 100ma bulbs.
 
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