Tascam 424 MK1 — chasing down a buzz/hum, beginner working through it step by step

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I recently inherited a Tascam 424 MK1 that had been sitting unused for years in a house with heavy smoke exposure. I've been slowly cleaning and restoring it. I should say up front - I'm pretty new to electronics troubleshooting and repair in general, so I've been learning the basics (multimeter use, soldering, reading a schematic) as I go through this, and I could definitely be missing something obvious.


For my first real test, I set up two Shure SM57s (dynamic, so no phantom power needed) as an XY stereo pair into channels 1 and 2, to record acoustic guitar. Right away I ran into a loud buzz/hum.


Initial symptoms:


The buzz changed noticeably when I touched the mic cables


The hum was present even with both mics completely unplugged, just listening through the headphone output with the input channels empty


I moved the unit around to different outlets and got buzz in different rooms - my guitar amp and stereo speakers also buzz a bit, so I was worried this might be some general interference issue rather than something specific to the deck


The hum changed when I touched the any metal on the unit, or other metal objects in the room


That last one pointed toward a floating ground reference - the deck runs off a simple 2-prong DC wall adapter with no earth ground anywhere in the chain, which seemed consistent with the hum shifting when I touched metal.


I ran a ground wire from an exposed bit of the chassis to a real ground (an outlet's ground screw). It helped, but only partially - didn't fully clear the hum, which told me there was more than just a floating chassis going on.


From there I got a soldering iron, a multimeter, and the service manual/schematic, and started tracing the ground path by hand. Found that Input 1's jack had a completely dead ground connection - no continuity at all, where every other point on that board tested fine. Photos showed the jack housing itself had been knocked out of its proper position at some point, and I also found the switch that's supposed to mute the input when nothing's plugged in seems to be stuck permanently open. Between the physical damage and two separate electrical faults, I'm planning to just replace that jack.


Separately from that, I noticed Channels 2-4 buzz whenever something's plugged in and the fader's raised, and go dead silent otherwise, while Channels 5-8 stay completely clean under the same test. So there seems to be some general noise floor that the channels with a mic preamp are picking up and amplifying, that the simpler line inputs aren't.


I went hunting for that with the multimeter and tested the DC power jack's ground path all the way through - that came back fully healthy, so I've ruled it out.


My current theory is something's not right in how the chassis/metal frame grounds back to the actual boards inside, but I'm honestly not sure this model even has a single dedicated wire for that - there's not a ton of metal in this thing to begin with, so it's possible the ground is made through a mounting screw contact rather than an actual wire.


Given I'm still fairly new to this, I'd really appreciate input from anyone who's worked on one of these (or similar old Tascam gear) and knows how the internal grounding is actually set up, or has ideas on where else to check next. Happy to answer questions about what I've already tried if that helps narrow it down.
 
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Hums where there shouldn't be any are often the sign of aged capacitors - many of this era even will look odd - swelled, shrunked, leaking or cracked. Normally they provide specific circuit functions - often protecting circuits from AC voltages, especially higher frequency ones - and when their value changes, they are a great way for hums and buzzes to get to places, instead of filtering them. When the unit was made, some batches of capacitors would seem to last forever - others seemed to dry out and cause lots of issues. This is where I suspect your issues are.
 
Hums where there shouldn't be any are often the sign of aged capacitors - many of this era even will look odd - swelled, shrunked, leaking or cracked. Normally they provide specific circuit functions - often protecting circuits from AC voltages, especially higher frequency ones - and when their value changes, they are a great way for hums and buzzes to get to places, instead of filtering them. When the unit was made, some batches of capacitors would seem to last forever - others seemed to dry out and cause lots of issues. This is where I suspect your issues are.
That's a good point, and honestly not something I would've thought to check on my own - I'm pretty new to this. While I was going through the schematic for something else, I did notice there's a filter capacitor sitting right at the DC power jack, so maybe that's worth a look, though I don't really know enough yet to say if that's a likely spot or not.

For now I'm going to try tracing and testing the ground path across channels 1-4 first, since I've already got that schematic open and sort of understand what I'm looking for there. If that doesn't turn anything up, I'll come back and try checking the capacitors next, starting with that one by the power jack. I'm not totally sure how to identify where the problem part could be, so I guess it will be some trial and error and visual inspection. Thank you very much!
 
Almost always, the first thing to do is to check the power supply.

I don’t have the service manual or schematics for the mkI 424, so I can’t help with specifics. But I’d measure the business end of the wall wart power supply (the barrel connector that goes into the back of the 424…first measure for DC volts, it should be stable and +12V or close to it. And then you ALSO want to measure for AC volts. It’s a DC power supply so there shouldn’t be AC volts at the barrel connector, or very little, depending on the setup. So measure those things. That’s all (obviously) with the power supply unloaded. It may also be necessary to do the same checks with the power supply loaded (plugged in, unit powered up), which means you will need to have the unit opened up so you can probe points on the PCB close to where the jack is mounted. I’ll try to find a service manual.
 
Almost always, the first thing to do is to check the power supply.

I don’t have the service manual or schematics for the mkI 424, so I can’t help with specifics. But I’d measure the business end of the wall wart power supply (the barrel connector that goes into the back of the 424…first measure for DC volts, it should be stable and +12V or close to it. And then you ALSO want to measure for AC volts. It’s a DC power supply so there shouldn’t be AC volts at the barrel connector, or very little, depending on the setup. So measure those things. That’s all (obviously) with the power supply unloaded. It may also be necessary to do the same checks with the power supply loaded (plugged in, unit powered up), which means you will need to have the unit opened up so you can probe points on the PCB close to where the jack is mounted. I’ll try to find a service manual.
Thank you for your input!

I ended up measuring the power supply directly, DC and AC, both unloaded (just the adapter by itself plugged into wall) and loaded (plugged into the deck, powered up). Unloaded I got about 12.3V DC and a small fluctuating AC reading near zero. Loaded, right at the power jack with everything running, I got a steady 12V DC and a clean 0V AC. From what I understand that means the power going in is clean, so that capacitor right by the jack probably isn't letting ripple through.

Still keeping the capacitor idea in mind for other spots on the board though, since this only really tells me about that one location. Next thing I'm testing is a shared ground connection across a few of the channels that seem to be affected. As much as a beginner can troubleshoot, at least...haha
 
Record the hum, 16 bits, 44.1kHz then put it through Right Mark Analyser. If the hum is predominately 50/60 Hz you have local mains pickup. If 100/120Hz it is a power supply issue.

Dave.
 
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