TASCAM 34 taking the face off

[cjacek]

TASCAM 34 (belt change)

RE: changing the capstan belt (and getting to it)

Ok, so I followed the front face dissassembly instructions in the manual, by taking off the 8 screws, pinch and other tension rollers, pitch knob and the 3 screws underneath the face. There's something, however, which prevents me from actually pulling off the face. The manual says to loosen a "nut" directly under the pitch knob (which I already removed of course). It's a strange looking thing and I'm wondering which tool I need to actually unscrew it, if that's what I have to do? What else is keeping the face bolted it? Herm, Reel, anyone??

THANKS GUYS!!!

 

[evm1024]

I tend to use a pair needle nose pliers for this.

 

[cjacek]

I tend to use a pair needle nose pliers for this.

Ok, I have those so I'm golden. Is that the only thing that's holding the face, from what you recall?

 

[cjacek]

Ok, was able to take out the nut underneath the pitch knob and I can slide the face off, on all sides, a bit but then I feel something is attached still. Looks like cables to the control buttons..... Can someone please lead me on how to properly gain access to changing the capstan belt? I'm stuck at the front panel removal.

 

[jpmorris]

Ok, was able to take out the nut underneath the pitch knob and I can slide the face off, on all sides, a bit but then I feel something is attached still. Looks like cables to the control buttons..... Can someone please lead me on how to properly gain access to changing the capstan belt? I'm stuck at the front panel removal.

I can't remember quite how I did that, but I did. Are they in two halves which are joined together with a plastic plug? IIRC it's something like that. You just unplug it. Be very, very careful with the display valve when taking the cover off, though. If you knock the little glass nipple too hard you'll lose the counter.

 

[cjacek]

I can't remember quite how I did that, but I did. Are they in two halves which are joined together with a plastic plug? IIRC it's something like that. You just unplug it. Be very, very careful with the display valve when taking the cover off, though. If you knock the little glass nipple too hard you'll lose the counter.

Yes, there's a connector (male and female) that needs to be disconnected. I had to unscrew the whole RCA panel at the back to gain access and still now it's tough to get a hold of the connector and pull it appart. How do you suggest I unplug it?

You mean the electronic counter window at the front? Ok, I will be careful. Thanks jp!!

 

[jpmorris]

Yes, there's a connector (male and female) that needs to be disconnected. I had to unscrew the whole RCA panel at the back to gain access and still now it's tough to get a hold of the connector and pull it appart. How do you suggest I unplug it?

I was sure there was something closer to the control panel and immediately obvious. This was on a '32 though so it might be slightly different...

**EDIT**
Oh! Are you saying that you still haven't been able to get the cover off in the first place? I thought you were just trying to separate them...
Once you've got the knobs, roller, headcover and the annoying nut under the speed control off, the cover should just detach...

 

[cjacek]

I was sure there was something closer to the control panel and immediately obvious. This was on a '32 though so it might be slightly different...

**EDIT**
Oh! Are you saying that you still haven't been able to get the cover off in the first place? I thought you were just trying to separate them...
Once you've got the knobs, roller, headcover and the annoying nut under the speed control off, the cover should just detach...

Ok, I was able to get the cover off, somehow disconnecting the connector from the back. The front face cover is now OFF. Man, now how do I get a belt on there?? Looks so damn complicated and where do I start? I think this is the same for all 30 series.

 

[jpmorris]

Ok, I was able to get the cover off, somehow disconnecting the connector from the back. The front face cover is now OFF. Man, now how do I get a belt on there?? Looks so damn complicated and where do I start? I think this is the same for all 30 series.

IIRC there are about four screws holding the headblock assembly in place. Remove these and it should all come out as a single unit, exposing the capstan mechanism which is underneath it.

If you've got the full operation/maintenance manual it's got a neat exploded diagram of how the machine comes apart. I discovered this after having stripped the thing down to replace the lifter assembly...

 

[cjacek]

Thanks jp but I've found perhaps a better way from using the search function a bit .... It's a post by Tim Beck, from a few years back:

MD,

The following is the official Tascam way:

Now that you have the front panel off you must also remove the back, which I think you may have already done. To replace the belt you need to pull the capstan out through the back.

1. First slide the aluminum ring and rubber washer off the front of the capstan, so they won't roll away when the capstan is pulled in.

2. From the back, remove the two screws in a bracket that that hold the capstan flywheel in place.

3. After removing the screws, pull the flywheel back and out.

4. Now you can lower the belt from the top front and slide the capstan back into place with the belt around it.

5. The other side of the belt slips over the motor pulley, but it's a tight squeeze between it and the head assembly plate. Loosen, but don't remove the four screws holding the front head assembly for easier access.

You can also take the entire head assembly off as Reel described. But on the 22-2 it's a royal pain because of the solenoid (attached with the heavy spring). Trying to align the capstan (which now has tension from the new belt) and the solenoid plunger at the same time will have you speaking in strange tongues before it's all over. If you try to take the solenoid off (two screws) the two delicate wires attached to it will likely twist off at the solder point, which you will have to solder back on. Yeah, I've done that.

-Tim

After examining the 34, it seems the logical way for this model as well. I'll try it and let you know. Fingers crossed...

 

[Beck]

Man, I wish I could find my old posts back when I need them.

That info was given to me by Jim Finch of TASCAM some time ago.

 

[cjacek]

Well, guys, success at last!! Between jp's posts, Tim Beck's reply from '05 , my manual, additional email help from Rolf (vintage tx), some common sense and a long sleepless night, not to mention the stress level, I managed to somehow put the belt on. This was a nightmare. On my TEAC 3440 it's a simple, easy job but on the TASCAM 34 (and I assume all 30 series) it was major dissassembly and borderline acrobatics to make this happen. It was to take off the face, all screws, rollers (both pinch and guide), take off the back and top, unscrew the RCA panel, disconnect the damn connector from the back, finally taking off the face, being careful (thanks jp) not to damage that "tit" sitting on top of the counter, then loosening the bracket (at the back) of the flywheel, manouvering (again from the back) to squeeeeze the belt through, then taking off the 4 screws (holding the heads plate) at the front, holding the damn thing being careful not to damage anything and not let the solenoid fall out etc..... to finally get the other side of the belt over the capstan motor.... Then do it again, in reverse order and, of course, having to remove it again cause I forgot to place the dust shield over the capstan shaft.... Assemble again and, many hours later, it's done....... I'm in rough shape ...... Oh well, at least I have another decade before I check the belt again!

 

[Herm]

Dan the first time for me was a bit nerve racking also. Next time it will only take you about a 1/2 hour total to do the whole job.
The I am going to screw something up factor goes away after the first time and its a piece of cake.

 

[Beck]

Hey Daniel, Congrats on the belt change!

On the other side you can get so far removed from the last time you've done the procedure that it's just like starting over. So, I'll have to find your post the next time.

 

[cjacek]

Ok, thanks again guys!

BTW, guys, it was also pointed out to me that I could have just done it from the front, by removing the 4 screws (on the head plate), as per the above, but also the solenoid thingie goes out too, and then swinging out the headplate, putting the belt on the flywheel and onto the capstan motor. I did it slightly different way (as you can tell) 'cause I didn't want to pull anything out and didn't know much about if the solenoid plunger can be easily reattached. Anyway...

 

[jpmorris]

Ok, thanks Gary and Tim!
I did it slightly different way (as you can tell) 'cause I didn't want to pull anything out and didn't know much about if the solenoid plunger can be easily reattached. Anyway...

I had to remove the capstan assembly to get at the lifter baseplate. Reassembling it with the belt under tension was a pain. Of course the worst part was, as you say, the solenoid plunger. I reassembled it wrong and then had to strip it all down again to fix it

 

[cjacek]

I had to remove the capstan assembly to get at the lifter baseplate. Reassembling it with the belt under tension was a pain. Of course the worst part was, as you say, the solenoid plunger. I reassembled it wrong and then had to strip it all down again to fix it

So I guess ignorance or lack of knowledge helped in my situation 'cause, thankfully, I didn't get anywhere near to the solenoid.

 

[cjacek]

Hey, do you recall those 4 screws holding the base plate that one has to remove to swing the whole thing up (for the belt change)? They were really tightly screwed in there and of course I got them out but when I reassembled, I also tried to retighten to that same degree. Is there a problem with overtightenning like that (manually by screwdriver) or am I just overthinking this whole thing? I just don't want to damage the places where the screws, screw into, the "windings" [not sure what they're called].... Should I go back and unscrew it a bit for a lesser "tightness"?

 

[Herm]

I would leave well enough alone.

 

[cjacek]

I would leave well enough alone.

Ok, thanks Gary!