Studiomaster 16x8x2 mixer and Lacy Thomson Sound Linear Decibel Compander

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Last, but now least, for now anyway, the Studiomaster mixer. I'll post up pics of the mics, the modified JVC remote, and the Lacy Thompson compander tomorrow evening.
 

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Whoa. That 38 looks like it was fairly new and rusted in the box. Hopefully someone has some advice for you on how to clean up that rust.

Does it get pretty humid where you are?
 
SteveM said:
Whoa. That 38 looks like it was fairly new and rusted in the box. Hopefully someone has some advice for you on how to clean up that rust.

Does it get pretty humid where you are?
Click to expand...

Houston? Are you kidding? It's the most humid place on the face of the planet, aside from a tropical rain :eek:forest maybe.
 
jjones1700 said:
Houston? Are you kidding? It's the most humid place on the face of the planet, aside from a tropical rain :eek:forest maybe.
Click to expand...

I shutter to think what the inside of that 38 looks like based on that capstan! :confused::eek:

Good...luck!

Cheers! :)
 
Any way you can link a hi-res copy of the control surface of the Studiomaster? I'm really curious about the control features.

Regarding the rust...I'm surprised that I don't see rust elsewhere in the headblock. Maybe its not so bad inside. Are you sure the capstan is pitted? Looks like it might just be surface.

  1. Get a scotchbrite pad from your local Wal Mart in the cleaning section
  2. Cut out a little piece of it and work it to soften it up a bit
  3. position the 38 so the capstan shaft points down (so cleaner doesn't get in the "works")
  4. saturate the piece of scotchbrite with window cleaner
  5. turn on the 38 and rubber-band the right tension arm up so the capstan runs
  6. evenly apply the pad to the capstand shaft moving it over the surface until it looks nice...reapply cleaner as needed.

In my opinion, if there truly are pits, your only decent alternative is to replace the shaft. Teac may actually have these in stock and I see them come up used on eBay every so often...really not an easy way to resurface them if it is pitted other than have it turned down and have a sleeve made and pressed on but you'll be cheaper to find something else either new or used.
 
sweetbeats said:
Any way you can link a hi-res copy of the control surface of the Studiomaster? I'm really curious about the control features.

Regarding the rust...I'm surprised that I don't see rust elsewhere in the headblock. Maybe its not so bad inside. Are you sure the capstan is pitted? Looks like it might just be surface.

  1. Get a scotchbrite pad from your local Wal Mart in the cleaning section
  2. Cut out a little piece of it and work it to soften it up a bit
  3. position the 38 so the capstan shaft points down (so cleaner doesn't get in the "works")
  4. saturate the piece of scotchbrite with window cleaner
  5. turn on the 38 and rubber-band the right tension arm up so the capstan runs
  6. evenly apply the pad to the capstand shaft moving it over the surface until it looks nice...reapply cleaner as needed.

In my opinion, if there truly are pits, your only decent alternative is to replace the shaft. Teac may actually have these in stock and I see them come up used on eBay every so often...really not an easy way to resurface them if it is pitted other than have it turned down and have a sleeve made and pressed on but you'll be cheaper to find something else either new or used.
Click to expand...

I just uploaded a handful of them to my Picasa account.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jjones1700/Studiomaster1682Tascam38#

The mixer seems to be pretty similar to my M-2516. It doesn't have the MIDI capabilities, of course, that the Tascam does; nor does it have provisions for headphones.

Upon closer inspection of the capstan shaft, it is just surface oxidation; no pitting. Thanks for the suggestions Sweetbeats, I'll work on all of that over the Christmas holiday.;)
 
Just a quick update. I popped open the 38 and took a look at the innards. All looks very good and clean. No rust or corrosion. I just need a longer Allen wrench to adjust the take up reel table height.:mad:
 
Just another update. I ordered a new pinch roller (just in case) and a new belt for the 38 from Tascam today. I was going to order the bulbs for the meters from them but they are $9 and some change a piece!:eek: Wow. I also cleaned up the exterior of the Soundmaster mixer. I've got the TSR-8 running through it to test it out. It sounds very nice! Apparently everything is functioning, with the exception of having scratchy faders and pots. Is it safe to use De-Oxit on the mixer or is there something else better suited to the job?

Thanks for the help and suggestions guys!;)
 
For metal-to-metal contacts (switches, jacks, etc.) I use DeoxIT D5...for conductive plastic and carbon element potentiometers (yer faders and pots) use the DeoxIT FaderLube F5. Don't substitute one for the other. Not a good idea IMOmy2p.

Parts Express has them for about a buck apiece...Let me know if you need the link. Ever change out bulbs in a 38 or any other 1/2 inch Teac 8-track? Its kind of a PITA...
 
sweetbeats said:
For metal-to-metal contacts (switches, jacks, etc.) I use DeoxIT D5...for conductive plastic and carbon element potentiometers (yer faders and pots) use the DeoxIT FaderLube F5. Don't substitute one for the other. Not a good idea IMOmy2p.

Parts Express has them for about a buck apiece...Let me know if you need the link. Ever change out bulbs in a 38 or any other 1/2 inch Teac 8-track? Its kind of a PITA...
Click to expand...

Excellent! Thanks for the info once again! I've never done meter bulbs on any deck. I've got a couple on an Akai deck that I need to replace as well, but that deck is low on my priority list. Are the Teacs just hard to get to or is there some other reason they are difficult? I'll be ordering some DeoxiIt (both types) tomorrow. I don't think I'll be using much of the D5 as the switches and jacks on pretty much everything seem to be pretty clean. All of the switches on the decks and mixers operate noise free. Where is the best place to obtain the D5 and F5 at?:confused:
 
Look at your local electronics supply store for the DeoxIT products, or you can order them from Parts Express (for instance), where you can get your meter lamps.

I thought about the meter lamp replacement again and I was remembering actual meter replacement...that was a bit of a PITA. Replacing the lamps themselves is easier. Just keep in mind they are solder-in lamps so it isn't plug and play, but totally doable.
 
Awesome! I'll order a full set of bulbs (since I'm going to be in the machine anyway) and the F5 and G5. Thanks again for saving my butt another time.:D Damn, can't give you rep again yet.:p
 
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