Strat trem question

Put some graphite on the pivot screws also, and make sure that the trem block screws are tight.
 
If it's going sharp which it sounds as if it is then there is increased tension in the strings after using the vibrato. That can only be two things. The block is returning further back than its start position (unlikely) or the strings are not running over the saddle or nut and sticking (far more likely). I would do as suggested and lube the nut well to try and rule that out.

From your description the only variable that has changed is the break angle over the saddles I would take a close look at them as well. You can use lube on them as well. If it helps, there is your problem and the fix is to get the nut and saddles dressed. Wound strings are worse because they grip more and they are by definition heavier per unit length so any change in tension will be more noticeable.

Setting guitars with vibrato is much more fiddly but with a little patience and thought about where and how the strings loose or keep excess tension it's normally just a process of elimination. One thing for certain, it aint your tuners...;)
 
Lt. Bob said:
well ....... I dunno and I'll be interested in muttley's take on this but one of the things a nut has to do is let the string make a clean break at that end of it's 'speaking' length.
So by it's very nature a nut kinda grabs the string unless it's a roller nut.

personally, if a lube fixed the problem i wouldn't go any further than that.
Click to expand...

Yes. it doesn't "need" to grab the string though, it just does. .
 
Greg_L said:
Yeah, I'm gonna give it a try.

I've never seen a roller nut. That's a neat idea. Roller bridges are okay, but why not a nut? Why not both? Might need too much angle down to the tuning pegs.
Click to expand...

I'm not a fan of either roller saddles or the few roller nuts that are around. A decent saddle and a well cut nut should do the same thing. The main issue with a roller nut is that it is incredibly hard to set the correct height and changes in string gauge, set up and intonation also become near impossible. The way round all these problems if you want extra stuff is locking nuts and saddles. I'm not a fan of those either as they can cause other issues and as I said a good saddle and nut setup is all thats required. Bone is definitely better than the stock plastic that is fitted to most cheap guitars these days so if you do get one cut get a bone one, to a degree they self lubricate and wear better.
 
JCH said:
Put some graphite on the pivot screws also, and make sure that the trem block screws are tight.
Click to expand...

Yes, this too as good housekeeping. Seeing as how you have excess tension in the strings post vibrato I don't think it's the problem here though.
 
Okay thanks guys.

I'll give the graphite stuff a try. I wanted to go get some today but took a nap instead.
 
If you are just bending down with the bar and the strings stay a little flat because of binding at the nut, give a slight tug to the bar after you come back up. Mute your playing as necessary, but this can be a very quick way to deal with binding at the nut on the fly. Geez, awkward phrase.

Anyway, the only thing required by this temporary fix is a floating bridge. If yours is decked, it ainna gonna do nuthin.
 
Shit I forgot about this thread......


I graphite dry lubed the nut and saddles. It helped, but it's not perfect. But it did help enough that it's about the same as it was before I started having problems.
 
A nice bone nut and a full size solid steel block would make a helluva difference to that guitar,totally blew myself away when I just made those upgrades myself.
I set the trem up for a minor third or 3 semi-tone pull up and I can use it all the way up and down and it stays in tune perfectly,I also replaced the string trees with roller trees.
Came in at £50 all in including a few spare bone nuts as I didn't make too a good a job of fitting the first one so got a few spares.
 
There can be different stability problems.

Trem:
Check 3 trem to block screws (under saddles) and tighten them.
Check 6 going to body screws, are they stable in body wood ?
If they are ok - release little bit (some half to one turn) the mid 4 screws.
Check how precise are adjusted remaining 2 side screws.
* The best is to remove that 4 mid screws at all, but only if body wood is hard and stable enough against 2 remaining screw load.

Tuners:
Release bottom small wood screw (if such there is) little bit.
Release upper nut little bit.
Move from place and turn tuner clockwise (most case it has some spare angle to turn).
Tighten upper nut.
Tighten bottom small wood screw (if such there is).
Adjust (tighten) optimally tuner's handle screw.
Repeat it with remaining 5 tuners.

Saddles, nut and retainers:
Clean and use graphite or molybdenum grease on them little bit.
 
I have been playing strats for over 35 years. I used to do a lot of trem bar work. I learned 3 things that drastically helped tuning stability.

1) the heavier the strings the better...don't use below 10's

2) use 5 springs on the the trem and have the spring tension pretty tight

3) most imporrtant...alway pull up on the bar as much as you go down. Your bar vibrato technique should be based on the center being where the bar sits naturally and you actually pull it sharp equal to the amount you're pushing the bar down. If you dive it hard pull a note sharp just as hard.

It takes a lot of practice but once this becomes second nature you will be amazed at how well a strat stays in tune even with heavy trem bar work.

I can't take credit for developing this though...I read a Hendrix interview one time and he said this is what he did. If you watch a video of Jimi playing you will see this is exactly what he does.

His strat still went out of tune but no stock trem strat will stay in perfect tune with that much radical bar work regardless of setup and technique.

Powdered graphite on the nut can't hurt either.
Hope this helps
 
Had the exact same problem with my MIM 2001 Strat.
Did my head in...got it set up professionally, nut job etc to no avail.
Eventually replaced trem with a Super Vee system for $160AU.
Worked well with a significant increase in sustain too.
Haven't had any problem since...recommended!!

Google Super Vee...

All the best and good luck
Doug
 
Mmm-Mmm, Spam!

It looks like the nut is cut pretty deep there, Greg.
Maybe that part is worn out.
What are you replacing the guitar with?
 
ignore the above suggestion to turn your tuners.
That will have no effect whatsoever on tuning stability. Some people do that because you get a little better access to the button on the tuners but it won't affect tuning.
Also .... you can't loosen the wood screws on the tuner a "little bit" if you're gonna turn it ....... the screws will have to come out all the way.
:D
 
Yeah even I know it's not a tuner problem. I'm not touching the tuners. I think I'll get a new nut for it. Bone, baby, bone. I'm not doing anything else to it. I don't like heavier strings, I don't like hendrix, but I might add more springs to see if that does anything.
 
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