Spackle on wood

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frederic

frederic

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I have a couple of edges, in this very low cove, where I didn't rip out all the cedar paneling, because its in nice shape and I kept hitting my head in there (the high point is 27", the low point is 8"). Anyway, I was clever when I installed the plywood, I pulled out one board a little bit, shoved the plywood behind it, and used two inches of the plywood sheet as a furring strip :) This way, the sheet rock when it butts against the cedar paneling, the seam doesn't overlap the plywood seam. Anyway, can I just mud that with tape and not worry about it, or do I have to do something else? I can try it if no one knows, just don't want to make a big mess for nothing.

I know, its weird... lol
 
How big is the seam? You could put in some styrofoam filler if it's too big.
 
Gap? I got this one right :) I sliced the sheet rock a hair large, then rasped it to fit, and its flush, maybe with 1/16th of a gap at the widest spot. Its actually tighter than most of my sheetrock to sheet rock edges which we're taping...

I was just curious of tape/mud would stick to the wood, or if I should use something else...
 
I have used vinyl spackle to fill lots of holes in door frames in my house (used to be a boarding house and EVERY room had at least 2 doors with double cylinder locks above the original 1920's crystal knob lock sets :mad: ). Worked great with no adhesion problems.
 
Thank you much for the feedback Adam. I'll give it a try this weekend then.

I was just afraid of experimenting, then having to tear out all the cedar panels in this cove. I can't even crawl in it, its that tight!

Thanks again!
 
Frederic,

Remember when talking dissimiliar materials - that they have varying expansion rates. For example - drywall is a very stable material - wood expands/contracts a whole lot due to just changes in humidity levels (doors stick in the summer - but not in the winter - yet you never touch the door.

Joint compound (I wouldn't reccomend spacking compound - we only use that as a filler for small holes and cracks) will work fine with a joint from drywall to wood.

I would reccomend however - if you want a really nice finish - and no potential for future cracking at the joint - that you don't use standard "tape" made for drywall.

Get a small roll of the nylon screening used for screen windows. It's pretty cheap at Home Despot.......... you can use this and it will stretch and allow movement of the different materials without cracking.

When using the screen for this - If you cover from roughly 3" of the drywall - and completely cover the wood with it (embed it in a coat of the compound and smooth it out) - you can then do a "skim coat" of the joint compound over the wood - and it will look exactly like the rest of the wall when finished.

Rod
 
My apologies Rod... I'm using two forms of joint compound... "regular" for seams and small gaps, and "light" for shallow screwhead holes. I keep calling it spackle out of habit, so I'm only adding to the confusion.

I'm going to give the plastic mesh window screen a try tomorrow, I picked up a long strip from Ace Hardware since they sell it in 36" width, by whatever footage I want, so I got a mere foot for this one spot.

Thanks for a great suggestion!
 
Frederic,

I'm happy i could help.

I think you'll find that it works wonderfully - I have had great success with this over the years.

It's a trick that was taught to me by an old plasterer for permanate repairs to badly cracking plaster. I have found it works with this type of situation as well.

Have fun.

Rod
 
It's a trick that was taught to me by an old plasterer for permanate repairs to badly cracking plaster. I have found it works with this type of situation as well.
Click to expand...

Well, its a great tip, because I was seriously considering gluing moulding over the seam and pretending it was deliberate :)

Its behind the racks anyway, so if its not "pretty" I could live with it.

Thanks!
 
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