Silk Screening Kit -attention bands- :)

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Outlaws

Outlaws

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I am not even gonna put this on eBay. ;)

This is just for this BBS.


I am selling a bunch of my supplies for Silk Screening.

I no longer have a band, so I am going to get rid of this stuff as it is just taking up space.

This stuff is still good.

I have not removed the screens that I used previously, but they are replaceable at most art supply shops as that is what you have to do when you want a different image. But for the sake of not having just a wooden frame looking thing, it makes it look better. :)

OK.

Down to business. (new = unopened = sealed = full = whatever you wanna call it)

Includes:
-3 jars of new fabric ink. Black, white, and yellow.
-3 jars of half full fabrik ink. (still good) Black, yellow, and hot pink (for the baby doll T's guys...gotta represent all your fans)
-2 jars of new acrylic ink. (for paper, posters, stuff like that) Black, cynine (blue)
-1 large new jar of Diazo photo emultion sensitizer.
-1 half full bottle of drawing fluid (if you don't wanna do the dark room setup)
-1 half full bottle of screen filler (keeps ink from going through where you don't want)
-1 squeege. For spreading the ink across the screen.
-1 mixing jar with lid for mixing different inks and storing your custom color.
-1 frame that is 10" x 14" (great for professional looking flyers) and includes a detachable hindge system with a hard back.
-1 frame that is 16" x 20" (plenty big for full front logos on T-shirts)

I also have a paint brush or two that goes with this. (forgot to get it out of my paint box)

I *might* have some instructions for this if you are unfamiliar with the process, but they are available all over the net.
http://www.reuels.com/reuels/page512.html
There is one place. That is for the old scool process of hand painting. But the process of how it works is very well explained.

Note that the Diazo Photo Emultion jar is included. So you can take pictures of things and transfer to the screen in a very professional manner.

I will take offers. Buyer pays shipping.
 
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I am not looking to make a lot of money off this. If you are willing to pay shipping, toss me a number and we'll talk.

There is a lot of good stuff here.
 
Always wanted to know how that works. The shole "screen" thing just doesnt make sense to me right now. I guess it would if I saw it. Shoot me an email with a ballpark on this stuff and if its acceptable, I might take it. I am clueless though.
paul@demokingproductions.com
 
Okay. The process...


The screen is basically a weave like any screen...but much finer.

Two methods can be done. Painting and Photo.

For photo emultion, you take an image that is on a trasparancy (so black and white, or a color seperation - a screen for each color) and that will block out light.

You cover the screen in the photo emultion solution (in a dark room) and then place the transparancy on top of it. When a light is shown on it, a chemical reaction happens and anything that is exposed to the light hardens. (Gradients will work like a newspaper dot matrix)

When the light is turned off, the transparency is removed and the screen is washed under water. Anything not hit by the light is still water soluable, so it will wash off the screen. No you have all the holes filled up from the photo emultion solution, and a clean open screen where your image is. This allows the ink to pass through.

Now it is a simple mater of putting ink on the screen and sqeeging it across and onto your item.




For the other method, you take the drawing fluid and paint your image on the screen. (which the screen is see through so you can also trace if need be)

after that is given a minute or two to dry, you take your squeegy and spread a nice even coat of screen filler across the screen. (This is going to work on the same principle as the photo emultion did) After that has a chance to dry, it hardens. Ink can no longer pass through the red-ish colored screen filler. And the drawing fluid is still water soluable, so renning the screen under water causes the area of the screen that was filled with the drawing fluid to simple wash away, again, leaving a clean open screen for ink to pass through onto the t-shirt or whatever you want.



Very simple.

When I did this my first time, I used paper to experiment on and it only took me about 5 passes (5 test prints) to really get a feel of how to control my ink.

The biggest thing was that I miss-read the instructions and did not coat the screen my first few times. That is, before setting the screen on the item (t-shirt, paper, etc) you lightly sqeegy across the screen to "set" the ink into the poors of the screen. Then you place the screen, and when you sqeegy again, it pushes the ink through.
 
So email what you are asking and what brand it is and I'll look at it, look up some info on the whole process, check my funds, and let you know in a little while... how much do new screens cost, average? Can they be reused, like knock all the stuff out of them?

paul@demokingproductions.com
 
A lot of it is from a Speedball kit, and some is what was at the art store.

The screens can be reused - ala cleaned - but is a good deal of work, compared just replacing the screen on the frame. $15 +/-

The frame with the hindge is from the kit, and the other was just a "sold seperatly" frame. The screens can be replaced, and are less than the cost of buying a new frame w/ screen already in it. Pluse you can buy the proper line(like dots per inch) you would like. I believe I have been using 120, but I understand they go up to about 300. Just finer edges and detail. Of course the higher the line, the higher the price for the screen, but you must take that into account when comparing the price of the stock frame w/screen compared to the replacement screen.

The base kit cost me about $70 and some change when I bought it. It had the hindged frame w/screen, the squeegy, three bottles of ink as I recall, the screen filler, and the drawing fluid.

The other bottles of ink were about $5-8 each and the photo emultion solution was $25.

The larger frame w/ screen was $50, and a smaller frames w/ screen was about $30-35 if I recall.

In the end it is much cheaper to just reuse the frame and buy new screens. its like painting, stretching your own screens is much cheaper than buying the premade stuff for people taking art classes.


Back to the what I have....

There is about $35-40 in new bottles of ink, plus a couple half full bottles.
The $25 photo emultion solution which is new.
2 good frames that can be used for a long time to come. If you are handy at wood you could build your own, but these are already made and worth a pretty penny if you have to buy them. (I plan on leaving the screens on them so if you want to test out the process you can, and not have to risk mucking up any screens you buy - note: don't let the ink dry in the screen ;) )
The squeegy is worth a few dollars.

So all in all, you still need the screens (unless you want to clean them), but I can tell you first hand that the one benefit you will be getting out of this is that you can try it out on two screens that didn't cost you good money. :D

As fo the price....

Ii haven't box it up yet, but I would suspect it cost about $20+/- to ship.
 
Ya, sorry. I didn't have time to get to the post office on Saturday. I am going today. In a few minutes actually.

I will get you the total and email it to you.


Sorry about that.
 
Outlaws said:
Ya, sorry. I didn't have time to get to the post office on Saturday. I am going today. In a few minutes actually.

I will get you the total and email it to you.


Sorry about that.
Click to expand...

great...now in your opinion is it easy to learn?
 
Question??

I have just started this myself. Once you do a first pass to get the ink to sit and you put it on the shirt; Do you then add more ink? Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of pinholes in the screen?
 
jonhall5446 said:
I have just started this myself. Once you do a first pass to get the ink to sit and you put it on the shirt; Do you then add more ink? Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of pinholes in the screen?
Click to expand...


Basically you pour a decent amount of ink across the width of the screen at one end. Then you use the squeege and scrap it across to the other end. That sets the ink into the screen. Then you place your screen onto the object. Now scrap across the screen wth the squeege (I like to drag the extra ink with it too) and the ink will be pressed through onto the object.

If you are refering to making a second pass of pushing ink through...ala...screening twice...you shouldn't have to if the ink is in the screen as it should be. Granted you are always supposed to make a test print or two before screening anything, just so that the screen has a chance to take to the ink.

I hope that covers what you were asking?

As for pin holes? I never had that problem. But I would assume you could use some screen filler to fill it if its not too big.
 
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