Rigid fiberglass ???

  • Thread starter Thread starter gvarko
  • Start date Start date
gvarko

gvarko

New member
My local building supply place carries a product by DOW that is rigid insulation but I am not sure if it is what everyone recommends... It has some long name like Polysucrinate something or other and both sides have plastic covering... It is 4" thick and looks like fiberglass to me... Does anyone know if that is indeed rigid fiberglass?
 
Short answer .... No it's not the recommended stuff.
That is foam core sheathing.
What you want is Owens Corning 700 series board or Johns Manville Spin-Glas board.
The thicker the better, and it's ok to stack sheets to get a desired thickness.
 
Thanks...

I had a feeling that was not the right stuff....
 
Since you guys are talking about the rigid fiberglass. I have a question or two.
Does it fray when you cut it?
How rigid or stiff is this fiberglass?

I was thinking of building a small foldable wall that I can move with them. I was wondering if I could build a 2x6 frame and cut one of the 2x4 to 2x2 and put one 2x4 with a 2x2 on top making a 2x6 partition. Then I can put hinges on the frames and have like a movable wall partition that it's foldable.
 
Dracon,

> Does it fray when you cut it? <

A little, depending on which density (703, 705) you buy.

> How rigid or stiff is this fiberglass? <

This photo is from my Acoustics FAQ:

oc-703.jpg


As you can see, 703 is rigid enough that it doesn't flop over when not supported (right side of photo), but not so rigid that it can't be bent or squeezed.

--Ethan
 
Ethan Winer said:
Dracon,

> Does it fray when you cut it? <

A little, depending on which density (703, 705) you buy.
--Ethan
Hey Ethan Thanks!
I was going to get the 703. Okay, then I will use something as a backing, and then I can make 2x6 frames and glue the Fiberglass sheets to the backing. Probably Pegboard or something light.

Is the suggestion that I go with the two inch deep or the one inch?
 
Dracon said:
Hey Ethan Thanks!
I was going to get the 703. Okay, then I will use something as a backing, and then I can make 2x6 frames and glue the Fiberglass sheets to the backing. Probably Pegboard or something light.

Why such heavy framing? You'd be fine with 1" boards, which look nicer too.

Also note that 6" is a nominal measurement (a 2x6 is actually only 5 1/2" wide), whereas the fiberglass measurements are not.
 
mshilarious said:
Why such heavy framing? You'd be fine with 1" boards, which look nicer too.
??? I'm not sure if you are referring to the frame or the actual fiberglass boards.

mshilarious said:
Also note that 6" is a nominal measurement (a 2x6 is actually only 5 1/2" wide), whereas the fiberglass measurements are not.
Again, I'm confused what exactly you are talking about. Perhaps it's just too damn early for me to be reading anything.

The sections of the wall partition will be 2feet wide by 6feet in height. The actual wooden frame (which I'll need to attach the hinges on), will bring the whole thing up to par because I'll use 2"x1" boards to make the frame. Also I'm debating whether or not to cover it with fabric, but I think I will just to make it look nice.
The entire partition will have a minimum of three sections.
 
fiberglass and mineral wool

http://www.amerisafe.net/store/index.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=152

I would recomenend something with a highr density then the glass you guys are talking about. like 3lb board.
A cheaper version of this is minerwool board. it generally is sold as 8lb board. and is about half the price.
Large orders amerisafe will ship pretty cheap. i think it is made in texas. the manufactures have consolidated into on company.
 
Dracon said:
??? I'm not sure if you are referring to the frame or the actual fiberglass boards.

Again, I'm confused what exactly you are talking about. Perhaps it's just too damn early for me to be reading anything.

The sections of the wall partition will be 2feet wide by 6feet in height. The actual wooden frame (which I'll need to attach the hinges on), will bring the whole thing up to par because I'll use 2"x1" boards to make the frame. Also I'm debating whether or not to cover it with fabric, but I think I will just to make it look nice.
The entire partition will have a minimum of three sections.

Oh!! Sorry, never mind. I thought you wanted to build the frame out of 2"x6"s.
 
Nateneal1966 said:
http://www.amerisafe.net/store/index.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=152

I would recomenend something with a highr density then the glass you guys are talking about. like 3lb board.
A cheaper version of this is minerwool board. it generally is sold as 8lb board. and is about half the price.
Large orders amerisafe will ship pretty cheap. i think it is made in texas. the manufactures have consolidated into on company.


Since this is the first website I've seen that actually has prices listed and seems ready to ship to anybody, I'm really interested in this stuff.

Is this stuff basically the same rigid fiberglass as the Owens Corning 700 series?

What's the difference with the mineral wool board? I assume the acoustic properties are basically the same?
 
Ethan Winer said:
Dracon,

> Does it fray when you cut it? <

A little, depending on which density (703, 705) you buy.

> How rigid or stiff is this fiberglass? <

This photo is from my Acoustics FAQ:

oc-703.jpg


As you can see, 703 is rigid enough that it doesn't flop over when not supported (right side of photo), but not so rigid that it can't be bent or squeezed.

--Ethan


by the way ethan, your acoustics faq was VERY informative for me. i am looking to seriously treat my very small bedroom, and am leaning towards getting some owens corning 703 or 705, etc...i looked on their site and didnt see any prices, any idea what it usually goes for?
 
Expect to pay about 50 cents per square foot for 1 inch 703.
 
so if i need maximum absorption because my room is particularly bad and tiny, would i want to go with 4 inch for everything? and would that then be 2 bucks per square foot?
 
stayouttamalibu said:
so if i need maximum absorption because my room is particularly bad and tiny, would i want to go with 4 inch for everything? and would that then be 2 bucks per square foot?
Well, that might be overkill. Better to start with a couple of 4 inch panels and then keep adding until you have it sounding as you wish. A super-dead space can be somewhat disconcerting to work in.
 
of course, sorry, thats not what i meant. i didnt mean 4 inch for everything being every square foot of every wall, i meant everything as in every different type of treatment - bass trapping, absorbing, all positions. like as opposed to having 4 inch bass traps, and 2 inch absorbers on the ceilings and side walls, etc. i meant should i use pretty much strictly 4 inch fiberglass? thats what i would think.
 
stayouttamalibu said:
of course, sorry, thats not what i meant. i didnt mean 4 inch for everything being every square foot of every wall, i meant everything as in every different type of treatment - bass trapping, absorbing, all positions. like as opposed to having 4 inch bass traps, and 2 inch absorbers on the ceilings and side walls, etc. i meant should i use pretty much strictly 4 inch fiberglass? thats what i would think.
Well, I think that if you put up, say four 4-inch thick broadband traps (which is what four inches of fiberglass is, not just a bass trap) then you will have done enough. The exception is this...if you have a reasonably sized room with parellel walls then you might get slap echo between the parallel walls or between the floor in ceiling (because you place your bass absorbtion in the corners. If you get this slap echo you should place some absorbers in the middle of the walls, and these would not need to be four inches thick to be effective.
 
Back
Top