Paint Choice

  • Thread starter Thread starter cfuehrer
  • Start date Start date
I've worked around hundreds of painters over the years that would whole-heartedly disagree with you on that point, Jake.
 
and I will happily outpaint every last one of them in quality and speed.
 
If that's the case then why do you find it necessary to donate 4 hours a day to your employer???
 
Take it to the cave man.

This is not the spot for your pissing contest.
 
Yo Picasso, you're the one that started slinging shit.............

Maybe you paint for a living but working 12 hours a day for $27k/year in HI ain't much of a living, IMHO.
 
jake-owa said:
Ever hear of a respirator?
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Yes, I have. I own one. And a full tyvek suit too. I only use them for noxious car painting. Its miserably uncomfortable, and hot. So interior of houses I paint iwth a roller and/or brush.
 
frederic said:
Yes, I have. I own one. And a full tyvek suit too. I only use them for noxious car painting. Its miserably uncomfortable, and hot. So interior of houses I paint with a roller and/or brush.
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Inhabited houses....yes. But for new construction there's nothing like spraying before floors/carpet go in. We're talking a day for three coats sprayed or a three days rolling.
 
c7sus said:
Yo Picasso, you're the one that started slinging shit.............

Maybe you paint for a living but working 12 hours a day for $27k/year in HI ain't much of a living, IMHO.
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True, you got me there.

Are we done?
 
c7sus said:
Yo Picasso, you're the one that started slinging shit.............

Maybe you paint for a living but working 12 hours a day for $27k/year in HI ain't much of a living, IMHO.
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It is if he's happy. ;)
Besides, what do you know, you haole*!

:D :D :D


(* pronounced howlie)
 
Mine are more like long tight zig zags going up and down about five feet centered roughly vertically on the wall. I work it from top to bottom on second pass and backroll when I have two or three of those. I'm not saying the other way is wrong C7, I'm simply saying that the big W/M method is not that bad, more important is backrolling technique. If you can't roll fast enough you might want to do a not so big W to prevent dried edges.


You're a fun fellow C7, I just think you fret the small shit too much.
 
jake-owa said:


Don't listen to C7 however...he's unemployed for good reason.
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I'm so glad you weren't saying the post I spent 15 minutes typing out was wrong.:rolleyes:

Ya know, I posted that in a sincere attempt to pass along some of my experience to someone who had a legitimate question. If you wanna disagree, fine, disagree. But if you wanna make personal attacks outside the cave then be ready to have it coming back at you in spades.

Have a good weekend, Jake. You need one.:)
 
Sorry man, you're right.

Had it comming.

I will have a good weekend, working for cash. I need that.
 
Carl, this is what I was referring to - although I've yet to find enough to explain how to get there. Did a search on non-bridging paint, and everybody tells you to use it on acoustic panels but nobody actually SELLS it; it's alluded to that you have to mix it yourself, but still no definitive answers there either. Some say brush it lightly or roll but don't spray - USG says spray but make it thin, yada yada...

http://international.usg.com/au/usgen/techmaintenance.htm

http://www.acousticoat.com/

http://www.procoat.com/faq.html

http://www.cgcinc.com/faq.asp?nav=100&mkt=&doc=13&bc=6.89.100

Those were the best info I found on non-bridging paint - The concensus is, there ain't no concencus (other than you don't fill the pores of acoustically absorbent surfaces... Steve
 
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