P-bass pickup question for the techs

[famous beagle]

You can test the pickup by setting your meter to the 20k ohms range and measure across the two expose solder lugs. One is the start of the coil and one is the finish. That will at least tell you if the coil is intact and will give you a reading of the DC resistance of the coil.

Cool. I just did that.

On one, I got 5.83k, and on the other I got 5.77k.

Does that sound about right?

 

[muttley600]

Cool. I just did that.

On one, I got 5.83k, and on the other I got 5.77k.

Does that sound about right?

spot on. Now just solder the wires back as per the standard configuration and you are good to go.

 

[famous beagle]

Cool. Thanks to everyone for their help.

 

[famous beagle]

Any chance that bronze/copper piece on the end was a loose piece that may have originally been on your soldering iron tip or elsewhere and got transferred to the tinned end of that wire and gave the appearance of being the same? Heat it up and see if it's really attached.

Zero chance. I haven't touched that wire with the iron at all. It just came loose when I was screwing the pickups into the body.

It's odd, but ... as long as it works, I don't really care!

 

[Ainaudio]

It is just the simplest wire - connecting both coils in series (noiseless), like on most Precision Basses.
However you can connect both coils in parallel too, this will be different tone-sound, more compact, linear with less low end (noiseless).
This case you need 2 short wires.
Let's number contacts on your latest photo from left to right as #1, #2, #3, #4.
For parallel connection #1 must be soldered to #4, and #2 to #3.

 

[famous beagle]

It is just the simplest wire - connecting both coils in series (noiseless), like on most Precision Basses.
However you can connect both coils in parallel too, this will be different tone-sound, more compact, linear with less low end (noiseless).
This case you need 2 short wires.
Let's number contacts on your latest photo from left to right as #1, #2, #3, #4.
For parallel connection #1 must be soldered to #4, and #2 to #3.

Thanks for the suggestion. I went with the standard series wiring and am happy with it for now, but it's nice to know there's another option should I want to try something else.