otari mx5050MKIII-4

[Dr ZEE]

RatShack got some caps, but last time I've looked - they had just few values some low voltage electrolytics, some generic kind (some marked "Japan"). I've bought one electrolytic cap there once to replace an old one in one of my tube "gear". worked fine . They also have some sets of caps of various values (sort of random banch) , hardly useful when you are looking for something specific. You can look through their on-line catalog, also that does not mean that your local store will have all the items. Just make the list, then go and look... they usually have a stack of plastic drawers with electronic components somewhere in the corner. Pull the drawer and see what's there. The guy in charge will sure come over and ask you: "Can I help you to find something?" , and the right answer is: "No thanks, I'm ok". heh heh
RShack soldering tools are just fine, as I can tell.
Ordering caps on-line. Besides e-baying, I personally only happen to use two "places".: AES - got some caps, and I've ordered in the past caps from this guy - W J O E RADIO, used paypal for payment, happy with result. He got some electrolytics for sale. There are must be many other places where you can order caps on-line. http://www.partsexpress.com/ - type "electrolytic" into Quick Search there
The values of replacement caps: Voltage rating - the same or higher (NEVER lower), the value - the same would be ideal,of course, also especially when you replacing caps sort of "blindly", meaning without going through details about which cap does specifically what and how critical the value is for proper operation. But in many cases you can be ok replacing a cap with the value within 20% of the original. (btw, who is the originator of that 20% number and how 'relyable' that "rule" is - I personally have no clue ).
POLARITY! - keep the same, don't experiment with that.

 

[MCI2424]

here is the 2nd one.

THAT cap looks like it is leaking. NOW I know all your caps need re-placing.

Recap and I guarantee you will have a better sounding deck (as well as getting rid of the ghosts)

 

[MCI2424]

hey if i were to go to rat shack to get the solder gun do you think they would have all the caps I would need as well? the values are all there I just don't know what "kind" they are. most of them are small and navy blue/light blue. then there are some larger ones of those color and then some big ones that are black with grey lettering. ?

Go online to Digikey. They cater to professional electronics houses in *small* and large quantities. Look at the Panasonic 105 degreeC Electrolytics. They will have all the caps for your deck. Use the deck parts list OR take read the value of each cap from everywhere in the deck and write a list.

It should be fairly easy as I had to go through 24 channels along with other stuff to the count of over 1000 electrolytic caps.

4-channels is easy............probably 1 day worth of work.

 

[MCI2424]

RatShack got some caps, but last time I've looked - they had just few values some low voltage electrolytics, some generic kind (some marked "Japan"). I've bought one electrolytic cap there once to replace an old one in one of my tube "gear". worked fine . They also have some sets of caps of various values (sort of random banch) , hardly useful when you are looking for something specific. You can look through their on-line catalog, also that does not mean that your local store will have all the items. Just make the list, then go and look... they usually have a stack of plastic drawers with electronic components somewhere in the corner. Pull the drawer and see what's there. The guy in charge will sure come over and ask you: "Can I help you to find something?" , and the right answer is: "No thanks, I'm ok". heh heh
RShack soldering tools are just fine, as I can tell.
Ordering caps on-line. Besides e-baying, I personally only happen to use two "places".: AES - got some caps, and I've ordered in the past caps from this guy - W J O E RADIO, used paypal for payment, happy with result. He got some electrolytics for sale. There are must be many other places where you can order caps on-line. http://www.partsexpress.com/ - type "electrolytic" into Quick Search there
The values of replacement caps: Voltage rating - the same or higher (NEVER lower), the value - the same would be ideal,of course, also especially when you replacing caps sort of "blindly", meaning without going through details about which cap does specifically what and how critical the value is for proper operation. But in many cases you can be ok replacing a cap with the value within 20% of the original. (btw, who is the originator of that 20% number and how 'relyable' that "rule" is - I personally have no clue ).
POLARITY! - keep the same, don't experiment with that.

If you have to recap an entire machine, don't bother with Radio Shack as you will pay 10-50X more PER CAP. Fine for a few caps. but if a few are dried out, then they ALL are dried out.

BTW: the manufacturer specs their product to be within 20% (+/-20%) and it is a fairly standard spec given that caps are very hard to control (unlike resistors). The new electro's last about 3X longer if you go with the 105degrees/C Panasonics. Original caps from the 70s-80s last fron 10-15years. ALL electronics from that period have partially dried caps and ALL electronics, if re-capped, will sound markedly better.

 

[FALKEN]

Go online to Digikey. They cater to professional electronics houses in *small* and large quantities. Look at the Panasonic 105 degreeC Electrolytics. They will have all the caps for your deck.

so that's it? just get the Panasonic 105degreeC Electrolytics and do the whole board with those?

 

[Dr ZEE]

tops of all electrolytic caps on the photos look just like new to me. No visual signs of anything, except one - sign of looking like a new cap. Am I repeating things?
The brownish spots on the board around the base of capacitors may be a sign of something, but I can't tell what it is just by looking at those photos.
I can't comment on possible condition of the capacitors based on visual examination of the bottom side of those capacitors because I cann't perform such examination

Replacing all capacitors with new ones is what it is. By doing so you will most definitely replace any and all bad ones, regardless whether or not there were any bad ones among them.

Do them all will do, - meet the objective at the end, that is. And it's no-brainer - all it takes is clubbing It's practical solution, I suppose.

/respects

 

[Slowrider]

Dog is really not that bad.

 

[MCI2424]

tops of all electrolytic caps on the photos look just like new to me. No visual signs of anything, except one - sign of looking like a new cap. Am I repeating things?
The brownish spots on the board around the base of capacitors may be a sign of something, but I can't tell what it is just by looking at those photos.
I can't comment on possible condition of the capacitors based on visual examination of the bottom side of those capacitors because I cann't perform such examination

Replacing all capacitors with new ones is what it is. By doing so you will most definitely replace any and all bad ones, regardless whether or not there were any bad ones among them.

Do them all will do, - meet the objective at the end, that is. And it's no-brainer - all it takes is clubbing It's practical solution, I suppose.

/respects

Those caps are leaking some, and are over 20 years old. They were rated for 10 years. THAT makes them bad by default.

 

[MCI2424]

so that's it? just get the Panasonic 105degreeC Electrolytics and do the whole board with those?

Get a de-soldering tool like what Mr. ZEE posted. Get a scrap PC board and some solder. Solder can be gotten from Rad Shack. WARNING-DON'T buy RoHS compliant solder! This is no-lead solder required for new electronics and you need to have a ton of experience to use it.

Get "no-clean" solder for best work.

Practice unsoldering components until you can cleanly take them out. Beware of pulling up circuit traces.

Take a magnafying glass and examine each cap in the tape deck. Write down a list. The identification will be similar to this:
Example: 4.7mF 50V. This would be a 4.7 microfarad value with a working voltage not to exceed 50Vdc. If the cap has both leads underneath it it is referred to as "radial" and if the leads come out the side, it is an "axial"

So, complete identifiers would be: 4.7mF 50V Radial Electro or
4.7mF 50V Axial Electro

Now you have a list, add up all like caps, get a count, and order from Digikey (online). Look at the catalog, get the Digikey part numbers and enter the numbers and quantity into the order form. They will tab the cost. The bulk price is WAAAAAAY cheaper than buying from anywhere else.

My total $$ amount for my MCI 24 track recorder was $189.00 for over 1000 caps!

That is cheap.

All Panasonic 105C rated.

Once you are this far, just take your time and re-cap. I think you will be shocked how:
1. The deck will sound much cleaner
2. Funny clicks, pops, hums and any other transient problems will go away
3. Aligning becomes faster and easier.

I have done some of my decks and 1 Fostex E-16 that had a transport problem (when FF or RR, it would just stop or run slow until warmed up for 1 hour). After re-cap, problem gone and sounds much cleaner.

Now, go to it and give your apis and other great equipmeny a reason to live.

Good Luck.::::

 

[MCI2424]

tops of all electrolytic caps on the photos look just like new to me......

The brownish spots on the board around the base of capacitors may be a sign of something................
but I can't tell what it is just by looking at those photos.................

Replacing all capacitors with new ones is what it is. By doing so you will most definitely replace any and all bad ones, regardless whether or not there were any bad ones among them.............................
/respects

#1= The tops of dried up caps all look like new if they were never touched.
#2= The brownish spots are made by the caustic chemicals leaking from the cap onto the FR4. Most caps in the pic have this and it is quite common.
#3= I can tell by the photos "cause I have seen it before and fixed it before.
#4= How right you are, replacing all of them is required as they are all waaay past expiration and dried out long ago. The only thing left is when they start to short and the power supply WILL short in spectacular fashion. (I LOVE the BANG!! that the big PS caps make when they go)

 

[FALKEN]

hey one more question.

behind the headstack on this machine sort of near the pitch control there is a switch. and next to it there is a label stuck on that says " in ext " . Is this a mod? is this machine capable of external pitch control, or rather to follow some sort of timecode? I don't really see where it would be read from.

 

[MCI2424]

hey one more question.

behind the headstack on this machine sort of near the pitch control there is a switch. and next to it there is a label stuck on that says " in ext " . Is this a mod? is this machine capable of external pitch control, or rather to follow some sort of timecode? I don't really see where it would be read from.

The "ext" is for external control of the pitch. You can use timecode for lockup of 2 recorders. You will need a copy of the manual to know how to set it up.
My MCI has exactly the same setup. These machines were in the "anchient' times of lockup and the method of lockup will be at best a pain-in-the-ass.