Cables and Connectors - Neutrik and Neutrik REAN?

[CoolCat]

Ive wasted some money the past 2 years on Amazon colored cool cable sets for $15 for 8 of them and found they didn't fit into the XLR very good, crackling etc... and so all removed.
I figured I could chop off the ends and solder some good XLR on the colored cables later.

Then I ordered some new Amazon no name cables, very cheap but being a believer, cables don't really matter Im not so sure.

Going down the Rabbit Hole I thought Id buy a couple good cables.
Then it seems my elder years, the big name brand was Switchcraft imo but today seems Neutrik is more popular.

Wondering about the XLR pin diameters and Male to Female hole size, I wondered "what gear am I plugging into?" "what connectors do the gear factory's use?"

per GoogleGemini search the Neutrik is used on my gear-

1)Antelope Audio Zen Go Interface (that seems to work when it wants to) uses gold pin, Neutrik.
2) Shure SM7 uses Neutrik as most Shure,
3)AKG is foggier but the C414 of today were stated as Neutrik in general.
4) Grace Design preamps use gold pin Neutrik.
5) Focusrite uses Neutrik on ISA series preamps.
6) KlarkTekni 1176 uses Neutrik

my old Line 6 and Aphex 207 doesn't list. the tank built old Joe Meeks use metal Switchcraft XLR and 1/4.
So Neutrik seems to be the connector brand for my gear.

Apparently Neutrik has their normal (metal cast) "pro-normal" and also the budget line REAN (plastic-HR?) series.
The Brass pins and females are coated silver or gold. I would think the pins are the same on both but not sure? Both owned by Neutrik I would think they are mirror image?

I splurged cash $35 for a Neutrik metal, gold pin with Canare cable already made 10ft 1 qty.

but ..Im not a touring machine and not even a commercial for hire studio, on do fine with one or three cables most times.
I do like the engineering rabbit hole to some degree. Is the Rabbit Hole in capacitance and well made cables to a point.
Cables can last years so isn't saving $20 over 10yrs maybe a good place to spend a little more?

To go cheaper Nuetrik REAN 2qty for $17 is tempting...but Ive wasted money on cheap no brand cables that didn't last a year too?

Long winded question!

Anyone experience with the NEUTRIK REAN? yeah nay crap or good enough for home gear?

 

[rob aylestone]

The problem is repeatability when you buy from other than Neutrik or Switchcraft. I've been buying Chinese ones for a long time, and my connector box has 3,4 and 5 pin XLRs - from Neutrik and 3 pin ones from Aliexpress, bought in 20's for cable connectors. These look similar to Neutrik and these ones have no issues fitting each other, Neutriks and all the mics I have with one exception - an Audio Technica from the 90s, whichis just too tight. They're no different top put on than the Neutriks and the plastic does not melt when you solder them. I would happily use one of these in place of the Neutriks. No issues at all.

 

[TalismanRich]

I've got a few cables, I think Guitar Center budget line, and I have a couple of mics where they are too loose. But I've used some of the Neutrik Rean connectors and not had any problem. I replaced the plugs that were loose. I also used them to make balanced monitor cables, and to convert a 25ft cable to 2 12.5 ft cables. I bought a pack of 10, and still have a few in the bag.

When I bought my Rode M5s, they came with a little rubber ring will snug up a loose cable. I haven't used them, though. I just swapped the cable if it was loose.

 

[Slouching Raymond]

I've spent probably £3,000 on cables for my studio.
Because I need so many, I stuck to budget brands.
They are a mixture of Stagg and Cordial.
Chances are they will outlive me.
I have wasted a few hundred £ buying the wrong thing, so I take that on the chin.
I had just one XLR connector with a bent pin, and another with a pin that was flat-ended rather than rounded.
Once connected, they won't move, and will have an easy life.

 

[CoolCat]

wow interesting response 3000!! in cables, I'm humbled in complaining about 8...lol
A friend of mine gave me a pile of guitar cables years ago and I didn't really hear much difference except in poorly made and it was 1 of 10 or so.
It was that test I decided "cables didn't matter" and his $150 cable didn't sound better to him either. However, there's a quality build and copper wire is expensive these days and theres a lot of problems caused by cables, so they do matter to some extent.

Ill probably grab some REAN, they are cheaper and Neutrik brand so the fit should be right. Im not a touring band so its as said, will be an easy life, and I don't need many.

off topic, but in cables!
I just read Toms Hardware site and his TypeC cable tale of problems with USB cheap cables, and I just had the same thing with Antelope Audio and whacko problems.
I think a large problem with my USBC Interface issues were clearly caused by
1.cheap USBC cable,
2.also adding a same cheap extension cable to make it worse, and
3. also using a old old USB2/3 B to C connector on my old cheap tower powering the Interface. low power.

Plan on getting a USBC tester to know the Volts/Amps. If the USBC is .9 amps or less and if the new USBC PD is 5A, also this tester can test cables for Volts and Amps from USB ports or maybe its fluctuating power?
I've had 2 years or more cussing this Antelope Audio USBC unit, because its worked so well and is really high quality hardware, but the software and connectivity HELL, then didn't work, then does work etc.
I learned its probably because its so dependent on USBC power and speed connectivity the USBC issues has ruined it as a working unit for me.
Removing the Extension cable, plugging in a different cable and using the Phone Charger 2A typeC has shown 2 weeks now no issues!

Numerous emails with AA Tech Support said its very power hungry unit, but also they state it can run on USB 2 ! which it cant.
They said they will be changing this in literature. (but already discontinued the Zen Go).

Anyway, USB tester seems a nice tool to buy. The old 2 at 500ma, isn't enough, 3 is 900ma which is better, but TypeC PD goes to 5amps, 100watt which is even better than C 3a/27 Watt or something like that. $25 or so...

 

[TalismanRich]

The problems I've read about come from the fact that USB has so many different data rates and power capacities. USB 2 is 480 MB/s, USB4 can be up to 40 GB/s. That's 80x faster, and it has to handle much more power. That means the shielding and internal cable geometry needs to be different.

Remember, USB-C is the connector, not cable capacity.

 

[CoolCat]

Its confusing, the USB 1 connector can do USB 3.X speed and on, with Type C mainly the "new one" and does higher power, high speeds, but so does USB 1 connector, while USB 2 connector and all the others seemed to be less popular.

I would like faster but my problem is mainly power with the ZenGo type C connector, but USB 2.0 (USB 1 connector) isn't enough power at all 500ma, and Antelope has problems with even 3.0 900ma, when it seems they state at times, the unit actually is best at 5V/3A to be confident. They really didn't make this clear at all. I notice all the AA units being dumped and sold due to frustrations and I wonder if its common the under power issue?

I've found WallCharger 5v/3A plugged into its B-port. The cable is working 2 weeks +. The Unit luckily offers two ports and one can be Power- the other Transfer.

The USB PD is a new one too, Its going to 5A right? a long way from 500ma.

 

[CoolCat]

this USB power test/meter showed up.
It measured 5v with .6A ~.7A, on the USBA (PC jack) to C(interface) - 3.0 speed/power outlet port powering the interface. Its - "blue"USBA plug type and is rated for up to 900ma. The Antelope interface is drawing around .7A aka 700ma, meaning it requires USB3.0 power, (and USB 2.0 power 500ma max, will not work for the Antelope and probably caused a lot of the problems and their literature was wrong in some posts saying 2.0 500ma will work. aarggg )

thumbs-up for the measuring device!
I paid $26 for one, but Aliexpress has 3 of them for $16. It answered the mystery of the interface power problem.

Rich, I get what you are saying the USB plug types and the USB speed/power are not related. confusing as they keep changing and adding more.
I have the old PC, tower, with all USB-A types, but two are 3.0 (900ma) "blue" , all the others are 2.0 (500ma) "white".
Wish I had a newer PC with 3.1 USB-A or C connector 5v/3amps.

Toms Hardware site mentioned beware cheap USB cables too. Having thousand dollar rig and a cheap cables causing issues.
So who makes good USB cables?

 

[TalismanRich]

this USB power test/meter showed up.
It measured 5v with .6A ~.7A, on the USBA (PC jack) to C(interface) - 3.0 speed/power outlet port powering the interface. Its - "blue"USBA plug type and is rated for up to 900ma. The Antelope interface is drawing around .7A aka 700ma, meaning it requires USB3.0 power, (and USB 2.0 power 500ma max, will not work for the Antelope and probably caused a lot of the problems and their literature was wrong in some posts saying 2.0 500ma will work. aarggg )

thumbs-up for the measuring device!
I paid $26 for one, but Aliexpress has 3 of them for $16. It answered the mystery of the interface power problem.

Rich, I get what you are saying the USB plug types and the USB speed/power are not related. confusing as they keep changing and adding more.
I have the old PC, tower, with all USB-A types, but two are 3.0 (900ma) "blue" , all the others are 2.0 (500ma) "white".
Wish I had a newer PC with 3.1 USB-A or C connector 5v/3amps.

Toms Hardware site mentioned beware cheap USB cables too. Having thousand dollar rig and a cheap cables causing issues.
So who makes good USB cables?

 

[CoolCat]

Thats more effort but good video of data. Makes sense they all worked and passed power and data, $4 or so....pick one you like. I have many cables fail from the Dollar Store, so not sold on Super Cheap anymore... it is noted he mentioned "maybe they're all made in the same factory" sounds like microphones.

For the USB DATA cables-
The BLUE USB port 3.0 Type A goes to my Antelope Audio Interface Data type C.
I found a USB-C PD charger Type C ASUS that is now powering the Antelope Audio as power only.

The other Blue Type A output goes to the Line 6 UX8 Type B...black USB, with RF Chokes on the cables. UX8 doesn't use USB power, its a 120v real power, so no issues ever. in >10yrs.

USB Type C PD seems to be the new Higher Watt but with "smart" match ability to detect if the load wants 5v or 20v etc..
I have about 20 little USB wall chargers laying around!!!....most are just low power up to 1A normal, but I had a few 3A and that's all I needed.
Anyway the Antelope Audio Zen Go drove all this and is best it can be for now.

XLR studio rabbit hole- this all started due to cheap cables that didn't work well, crackles and loose, poo...

The Canare Japan cable with Neutrik arrived, they fit well and seems to be a serious cable company. $35 each 10ft. Premium parts and over the top probably for HR.
I ordered the Neutrik REAN $17 for 2qty, $8.50 each 10ft.
Oddly a old friend tech gifted me a very nice solder station, so perfect timing for some cable soldering! So maybe will use the colored mic patch cables on new connectors.
$40 I could do 6qty Neutrik XLR cables. $6 each completed DIY, having the cables from the crap-xlrs..

Physically looking at the gear I have, with a magnifying lens, better yet HD phone pic magnified!! I looked into what my gear had for gearheads fun.
Mics-
1) 1973 SM7 has Switchcraft, gold pins XLR and still works fine and the gold is still intact. (not Neutrik)
2) KSM32 1st version is stamped SHURE XLR. (AI says they used Neutrik on KSM series, maybe stamped on the barrel?)
3) AKG 414, 420 nothing stamped so will assume its Neutrik as AI stated. (maybe stamped on the barrel?)

Preamps-
4) Ted Fletcher Joe Meeks- VC1Q - Switchcraft full name-stamped
5) KT 1176- Neutrik stamped
6) Antelope Audio Zen Go - Neutrik per literature
7) Mystery solved! Line6 UX8 using Switchcraft per the S symbol in triangle
8) Mystery was a APHEX 207 stamped with a "C" but AI says this is a Neutrik logo too?
deep in the Male socket was the Neutrik full name stamp! so will assume the female is Neutrik.
9) Grace Design, stamped Neutrik XLR

note: The "Liechtenstein" Inscription: Genuine Neutrik inserts usually have the country of origin, "Liechtenstein", crisp and deeply molded into the plastic body or outer barrel interior. Fake connectors often omit this or have fuzzy lettering.

 

[TalismanRich]

I never heard about Neutrik connectors in my younger days.

I remember old Amphenol connectors on a few mics that I had from the 50s that my Dad bought used when I was a kid. My Shure 55 no longer works. It was ruined when the basement flooded. It was my vocal mic when I first started playing into a Bogen PA.

Switchcraft seems to be the manufacturer of choice for guitar players. Everyone seems to specify Switchcraft jacks and switches, and the promo department puts that in the ads to promote their quality.

I remember Cannon connectors. When I bought parts at PI Burkes in the 60s-70s you didn't have import connectors. It was Cannon, Switchcraft and Amphenol. And they were expensive... you would pay $.75 to $1.25 a piece.

 

[CoolCat]

I got the Neutrik / Canare $$$ cables.
The Neutrik REAN $ cables.
and my Amazon mixed cables....shooting in the dark blindfolded orders...random results never paid attention until getting a 8 pack and all of them crap. That's when I started questioning the "quality", where the barrels not measured right and the pins diameters too small making crackling bad connections?

Switchcraft was most common name, but Neutrik I thought got famous when the XLR/TRS 1/4" dual jack became popular on interfaces and that is a great invention.

as I upgraded the HR studio with "non crackling cables", it was interesting to find what the old gear and new gear was using, never done that before.

then being 2026 and having so many issues with the Antelope Audio, the USB cables became a maze which Id never really paid attention to either.
I didn't know there were so many types and speeds and its ever changing to "smart chargers" that can auto detect voltage and current, etc.
The USB Speed not an issue , but why not have a Blue USB cable in the Blue USB port? only $8.
Then the Power USB , the Antelope Audio offers to have a Wall Charger/ USB PD to better power their product but they don't send one or a cable with the unit, leaving the customer to possibly under power the unit which crashes the firmware or whatever. 500 ma , 900ma, or 1A or 3 A or why not 5A!!! over engineer the power plant! lol
So adding the Meter it showed 700 ma, which would crash at 500ma, and work ok with 900ma, but again a Great Wall Charger aka USB PD is $20, why not?

I noticed a lot of interfaces in the lower end have no power supply but some are offering USB wall-charger type plugs to better power the interface.
So a good wall charger and a cable for higher V and I wont hurt , splurge $28. ?

The lightening bolt is a USB PD power plug, (not thunderbolt speed) and the odd A-USB port is the actual Bi-Directional Speed port.

I think Im done upgrading cables in this small HR studio. Do have plans to get the solder gun out someday though and put new connectors on the cables.
Also all my pile of old USB cables are better understood.

I didn't go as far down the hole as the dude in that video you posted. wow...I tip my hat to that.