Need advice on small space frames and walls

kamiflwrs

kamiflwrs

New member
I'm Looking for any pointers or help on my studio wall construction

My current build plan is a studio with dimensions of 340 cm long × 206 cm wide × 209 cm high. The walls are planned to have interior framing with insulation, 2 layers of interior drywall and 1 layer of exterior drywall, with joints and gaps sealed to reduce sound leakage. I'm not able to expand on the sides much. I got the drywall for free. I'm planning to use rc1 strips for connecting the drywall to also reduce vibrations. Is there any improvements I could make or should keep in mind ?. I'm aware is an extremely inclosed space but I'm trying to do the best with what I have. So any help is appreciated 👍I'll be mainly using it to record drums and guitars and vocals (separately) as well as some minor production with mainly iems
 
That's a low ceiling! I assume when you are talking about the interior and exterior drywall, you are NOT having a room within a room, but are just cladding the external surface of the single stud with the one layer, and then putting the two layers onto the inner surface using the resilient bar? My experience of these is that they actually don't do very much at reducing the low frequency energy at all! Reduces speech, but if you thump on the inner surface, on the other side of the wall, you can hear and feel the thump. I've done I think 8 studios now, and all were timber framed bar one. Steel studwork is nice and quick to work with but I'm not convinced at the sound reduction capability. You might think about scrapping the exterior layer and adding it to the inner? That would make 3 layers which with staggered joints is better. From experience - weak points will be where the roof layer meets the wall - I developed a rather simple cheat with my timber studios in the later ones. I would build the walls and NOT put in the ceiling joists at all - so, the timber studwork and the sheet cladding. Then I would sit 2 12mm layers of drywall (plasterboard in the UK) sitting on top - so totally sealed at the top plate. Then I put the joists on top and secured them trhough the plasterboard. Downside is that it means you cannot screw the usual way through the wall timber, into the joists. I discovered this did not matter, because the weight is considerable and gravity and friction did not need physical screws. Once the entire ceiling is done, working in from both ends, the middle can be finished with some cutting and tweaking. Whatever you put on the walls is limited by the layers on the ceiling. With your low ceiling, I'm guessing your joist height will be compromised - so weight might be tricky - the deflection downwards from the plasterboard weight can be quite worrying if you are compromised in the joists. Possibly with metal studwork, you can just double up the channel to give extra vertical load bearing capacity?

If your insulation will be an issue without the external layer, you can always use chicken wire as a backing and have the insulation contained in the stud channel depth. In one studio, one room had no insulation at all - and the same depth of sheeting as the room next door that did have the insulation. If I am to be honest, we did not notice a difference. Thick plasterboard simply does not let enough sound through to make the presence or absence of insulation very obvious - if at all? I don't think we even detected any heating differences in cold weather. Both rooms seemed identical. One tip is that spending lots of money on extra layers is usually a bit pointless, because it's always the weakest link that does the damage. Ventilation holes, oversize holes made by the electricians, and in one case a piece of conduit installed through multiple layers of a room within a room to get a mineral insulated cable inside for a fire alarm buggered up all the effort we put into insulation. I remember that one well! We started with a soundproof room even with the crazy metal drummer, then suddenly people in the space next door started moaning about drum noise - that bit of plastic pipe ruined it. An air gap from inside to outside.
 
Just some info that might add further context
I'm building inside a shipping container , approximately 340 × 206 × 209 cm are my goals for finished interior dimensions.
I have Very limited ceiling height (original height approximately 218.4 cm), so preserving headroom is important.
Primary goal is maximum sound isolation for vocal recording and occasional drums/guitar, particularly low-frequency isolation.
Quick questions so
Would moving the exterior drywall layer to the interior, giving me three interior layers, meaningfully improve sound isolation?
Would you recommend steel studs or timber framing for better isolation?
Do you have any recommendationsfor the ceiling to maximize isolation while minimizing lost headroom?
Would you recommend mineral wool in the cavities, or just adding another drywall layer?
 
Ah! In a shipping container, I would absolutely put all layers on the inside, but don’t forget vapour barriers, as condensation between the metal skin and the inside surface can make them damp. If you need to maximise interior size then timber studs are usually 3” depth, but you might get away with 2”. Ceiling sag really need thicker ones though, so maybe metal ones at smaller centres would be better. Have you bought the container? Hi-cube ones are hardly more expensive. We use one trip ones, with ventilation for storage here. Plenty of headroom. You will need to put the air handling on the inside, not enough depth between the inside and outside. Either aircon with split unit, or air removal and fresh return, but if you use that system, which works fine with the U.K. temperature, make sure you use 8” ducting. Smaller is too noisy. 8” running slower shifts more air than small ducting with faster fan. Lots of people have used containers with success. Height is a real pain, because you will lose more because of the floor. That needs isolation too, so will eat up your height.
 
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