Measurments for building acoustic panels?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jesse G
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Jesse G

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Ok, I am not into carpentry, so I need some help.

I orders 24 peices of Owens Corning 703, 2 inches thick insulation to build Mid to high frequency panels for my studio as well as several bass traps by doubling them 703 to 4 inches in the corners. Does anyone have any constuction plans for the framed and how to cover the insulation.

Basically, I want to cover the panels first, and then have them sit in the frames and then hang them on the wall. any good leads or instructions on what size wood to use, the measurements ect.. woud be great. I have 2' x 4' panes that are 2 inches think My wall panels will be only 2 in think panels. My corner will be 4 inches but are not being framed.

Thanks,
 
Jesse G said:
Basically, I want to cover the panels first, and then have them sit in the frames and then hang them on the wall.
Click to expand...

Why would you want to cover them first?
It is easier to cover the frame and then load the insulation into the back.
Otherwise you will need to paint the frames.

Covering the frames allows you to use cheaper non-appearance grade lumber.
If you make the inside dimensions of the width an 1/8th smaller than 24 inches the panels press fit in and wont come out without effort.

I've made nearly 50 to 60 2 ft by 6 ft or longer panels this way with no problems of the insulation falling out.

You can check out what they look like (in the main room anyway) at:

www.tmixstudio.com

my picture taking is horrid, but you can get an idea what they look like anyway.

Tom
 
I want the wood to show because of the look it will give the frames when they are finished and stained. I am going for a mahogony look as I have mahogony in studio. So, the Panels will match the walls and look great as well as make the sound better acoustically.

Thanks for the information.

Peace
 
What I would do is a combination. Stretch the cloth around a very thin frame that can be set INSIDE the outer visible frame and tacked in place. Then slide the 703 in from behind and cover with a cheaper cloth since it will not be visible.

Bryan
 
What Bryan suggests is good. It is what I was going to do if I did not have so many to do.

But, since you intimated you were not a carpenter type I thought it might be harder than you were willing to try.
As well as staining and finishing the wood.

It sounds like it will look wonderful.
Don't expect to complete them in a weekend.

Tom
 
Thanks guys,

True, I am not the carpentry type, bu I won't mind learning how to do soemthing when I put my mind to it, especially to make it look good.

Sorry, I can't add a photo to show you what it will look like, as I don't have 5 original post yet which entitles my to attach a photo link embedded in the post.

Peace
 
Here's what I did:

https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=228169&highlight=703

I used 1x4 pine, and used pocket screws to hold the frame together. I then used some little piece of 1/4" hardboard across the back corners for xtra rigidity. If they were going to be permanently mounted, this would be unneccesary, as the pocket screw construction is pretty sturdy. Here's a pocket hole pic, but this one is attached as "a frame," where ours would be "a box." The technique is the same, but the wood is just joined differently. Buy a Kreg pockethole Jig (available at Lowe's, etc). It's a totally cool tool, that you'll use again undoubtedly.

KregJig14.jpeg
 
Well to start with ask yourself do you really need frames at all? Depending on where you are placing them you can do just fine with covering the 703 with fabric and hanging using impaling clips.

Second, if you want frames but aren't into carpentry perhaps reconsider using wood and instead use metal studs. The last bundh of traps I did (three inches of 703 each) I used 3 5/8 inch metal studs and they went together in a breeze using only a tin snips, a drill with a screwdriver bit and some self-tapping screws.
 
Thanks all,

I have the measurments that I need. I want good support, so I am going to with Pine, and then stain it. I won't do a cheap job on this. I will be covering the 703 with burlap and then framing them in Pine.

They should look good and make the room sound better when I am finished.

Peace :cool:
 
FYI you will get better absorption by leaving the back and sides of the fiberglass exposed.
 
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