MDF on ceiling?

ThaArtist

New member
I read that MDF is dense and very good at isolation. I have a small live room/booth that I just framed out. 6'x9'x6'5".

The studio is in the basement and I need to stop sound as much as possible from leaving the room more so on the ceiling. Height is a factor and the acoustic drop ceiling tiles are too expensive for me unless someone knows a cheap place? I haven't been able to find them less than $50 a tile.

Right now there is Johns Manscille SOundcontrol batts in the ceiling (floor) joists.

My first question is, it can't be harmful to double up on them batts right? I planned on doubling up before I did the ceiling.

Second question is with recessed lighting can I put the fire rated batts right up next to them?

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1294239&CAWELAID=109346469

(very similar to what I have installed if not exact)

Third question is can I use MDF on the ceiling of this small space or is that a no no?
 
If you recess the lights, the lights will become the weak link in the sound isolation by letting sound through the light fixture.

If you can afford it, double up on everything. I would then fix a layer of MDF followed by a layer of Sound block plasterboard (I wish I had done this at my place, I used 2 layers of sound block plaster and it was hard work fixing the second one and finding the beams).

If you can hang the ceiling on suspension strips like this, it all depends on how far you want to go.

Cheers
Alan.
 
Well the lights are already recessed in this space so I was going to try and keep them so I didn't have to mess with the wires. If I did keep them is it horrible to stuff batts up tight around them or will they catch on fire?

I'm more concerned with loosing headspace since it's already tight. I know it's not totally ideal but the biggest spot I have for acoustic isolation is between the ceiling joists which is also where I want to stop it the most. I want to stop sound from going into the living space above it as much as possible.

I've read that people don't use MDF much because it weakens the structural integrity of walls because it's so heavy. Is this a concern for the ceiling in this small space?

Where can I even get soundbloc plasterboard? It seems to be a British product at first glance and I'm only seeing prices in a britsh pound I believe it is.

I'll have to stay away from suspend strips I think. I don't have the money and don't want to further lose even MORE headspace.

Thanks so much for responding. I really appreciate it!
 
You are better off not having recessed lights, have you thought of having wall lights if there is no head space? You can run the wiring down from the ceiling space. I have done this in my studio and it works well, go to my link under my name and have a look at the recording room photos. I also suffered from a low ceiling problem.

Do not have batts up against lights they will eventually catch fire, if installed they need a heat guard something like shown in the link. However whats the point of worrying about sound insulation buy using MDF, Soundbloc plaster etc, if you are going to cut big holes in it for down lights? The sound will escape or enter through the light holes.

Soundbloc is just a product name, just talk to your local plaster supplier and tell them you want paster that blocks sound, it's a higher density plaster.

Cheers
alan.
 
Thanks for your help and input!

I had an idea tell me if this sounds like it would work. It does to me for some reason... What if I take down the existing johns mansville sound control batts and cut strips of MDF to fit inbetween the joists and caulk using non hardening caulk. Maybe double up on the strips then double up on the batts since they dont take up much space as it is. Then try to get away with one layer of 5/8 inch dry wall to save headspace?

Worse case scenario... What if I try to isolate the recessed lighting by framing them in the joists? That would help some right? I know sound will escape but the total mass will still reduce alot of it from being louder up stairs.

Hmmmm... see the basement has two switches wired to half of this space. 1 switch goes to 4 recessed lights and one to another 4 and I had guidelines to not rewire the lighting which sucks but maybe I could convince the person from where my guidelines come from lol.
 
Recessed lights must be boxed in with the same material as the ceiling so that the mass is the same. You must leave a space between the fixture and the box. If you look at the details provided with the fixture, it will tell you the ventilation requirements and/or flammable material proximity limits.

Always compare prices with the so-called 'sound-block' gypsum board. Usually the best bang for the buck is good old type X, 15.9mm (5/8") fire rated gypsum board.

compare density of mdf/osb/gypsum board. Get the highest density for the lowest cost.

The most efficient absorption material you can use in a wall cavity is good old thermal insulation - the fluffy stuff.

Cheers,
John
 
Thanks JH Brandt! That helps alot actually. Please check my other more indepth posting of my plans (in the "can i get away with" glass thread) and let me know if that sounds better than keeping recessed lighting.

I really appreciate your responses! :)
 
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