Hey Light...or anyone else who knows their intonation well. I stress well.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Outlaws
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freshmattyp said:
I also installed locking Grovers instead of the historically accurate but extra crappy Kluson knockoffs.


Does anyone make nicer versions of the histortical ones? I found I much prefer restrings my guitar when I can just cut the string and ram it in the hole, bend, and tighten. I have locking tubers on my LP, and they are nicer than standard tuners, but nothing compared to the ease of the teles with the top-down hole.
 
Outlaws said:
Thats what I have been doing, but pressing the string is a variable and there isn't a means of nailing the correct pressure each time consistantly.QUOTE]

Try a Capo.

Can you perfect something that is inherently flawed?
 
Outlaws said:
Does anyone make nicer versions of the histortical ones? I found I much prefer restrings my guitar when I can just cut the string and ram it in the hole, bend, and tighten. I have locking tubers on my LP, and they are nicer than standard tuners, but nothing compared to the ease of the teles with the top-down hole.

Not that I have found, at least for 6 in line headstocks. I have Waverly's on my J45 and Santa Cruz OM and they work great for 3+3. I've pretty much switched to locking tuners on all my electrics. I have some satin chrome sperzels on order for a Jaguar reissue I just bought.
 
ggunn said:
Hmmmm. Methinks that if the components of your guitar are flopping around so much that it makes a noticable diff to your intonation whether it is face up or edge up (or hanging by the tailpiece, for that matter) then you have other probs.

I beg to differ ...

just tune your guitar lying flat on the table ... and then pick it up in a regular playing position (neck-strap) and check again with the tuner ... you WILL be surprised ...

the pure fact that the neck of the guitar isnt being pulled back by its own weight (by lying on the table) makes some % of diference ...
 
ALWAYS check and adjust the guitar in the playing positon (W/strap, if this is how you play, most of us do.)

Intonation....

OK, I've got a USA Custom Jackson Soloist, neck through, original Floyd Rose...blah, blah, blah....

When I first bought it back in 94 I took it too a local guitar guru who's noted for being one of the best around (Here that is...St.Louis) You pay a flat rate for your first set up, and then you get free life time checkups/re-set up for ever..........as long as you are the original purchaser of the plan.

Well I went there today to pick their brains on correct intonation.........as they were setting up my Jackson. Now I've been doing the whole tuner/12th fret harmonic/fretted note thing for years, and I thought this was the end of story. As it turns out, there are other harmonic properties invloved that a "tuner" cannot reveal.....only a strobe. now I'm a little fuzzy on this, so does anyone have any insite to the whole strobe tuning side of intonation and how it directly relates or dosen't relate to "tuner" intonation.???

Thanks,
Rick
 
e_rock said:
If the harmonic and the fretted 12th fret note are at the same pitch and you are still having intonation problems, you may have other problems. Your frets may need dressing, the nut could be slightly off. Lots of factors. Is this a well played guitar? I just had my strat refretted and the intonation is amazing now.

hate to get off topic, but how much did that fret job run you?
 
One last note...I use an old quartz tuner that I bought back in the early 80's.
This things been through hell and back, but still works great. Anyway... It really helps to use a tuner with a meter instead of the old.."green light is on if it's in tune" I can tune one string a hair flat on it and the next one a hair sharp. Both will read as "in tune on most other tuners...but it'll sound like crap when you play them together.
I think maybe this is why strobe tuners work so well. It's just a little more accurate. Plus a strobe will show when your strings are not ringing properly. A bad string will vibrate inconsistantly, so much that sometimes it will actually cause a fret buzz.
 
AlfredB said:
I beg to differ ...

just tune your guitar lying flat on the table ... and then pick it up in a regular playing position (neck-strap) and check again with the tuner ... you WILL be surprised ...

the pure fact that the neck of the guitar isnt being pulled back by its own weight (by lying on the table) makes some % of diference ...

Some guitars do that more than others, I guess. My Les Paul's tuning is the same face up, face down, edge up, or standing on its head.

I have a hard time believing that even if such a thing is happening and it goes a little sharp lying on its back, that there is enough movement to warrant changing the bridge saddle placement. But whenever I work on a guitar lying flat, I generally put a rolled up towel under the headstock to keep it from moving around, so the neck is not supporting its own weight, anyway.
 
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