Help me with painting my guitar please.

  • Thread starter Thread starter guitarded2
  • Start date Start date
Thanks so much everyone. I think I have learned alot from what you have said but I think it turned out pretty... ..er... decent. It is no Mona Lisa but I was never too good with finger paints in kindergarten either. Thanks again for all of your responses. Ill be sure to return the favor If anyone has a question I can answer. It sure as heck looks alot better than it did before with the hammer marks in it :rolleyes:
 
No you shouldn't..

And why not? I've done plenty of paintjobs for people like that over the past few years and they've all held up perfectly and looks completely professional. Obviously it's not your only option, but it's a very good one.
 
And why not? I've done plenty of paintjobs for people like that over the past few years and they've all held up perfectly and looks completely professional. Obviously it's not your only option, but it's a very good one.

I'm going to give you another gentle reminder that you are in over your head when you talk refinishing and other luthier-related topics with Muttley or Light. Read and learn, grasshoppers - we are fortunate to have two very knowledgeable craftsmen in our midst. :)
 
I'm going to give you another gentle reminder that you are in over your head when you talk refinishing and other luthier-related topics with Muttley or Light. Read and learn, grasshoppers - we are fortunate to have two very knowledgeable craftsmen in our midst. :)

Before:

IMG_1742.jpg


IMG_1741.jpg


Primer:

IMG_1746.jpg


IMG_1745.jpg


Base:

IMG_1757.jpg


IMG_1756.jpg


Stripes:

IMG_1759.jpg


Finished product:

IMG_1774.jpg


My Nu-Vintage Strat:

IMG_2039.jpg


Don't tell me I'm in over my head.
 
Nice job on the paint job!

I would have chimed in, and offered some input, but you might have blown some shit up using my advice.:D

You're usually OK as long as:

1) you don't use a bic lighter to see how much laquer is left in the can
2) you don't take your respirator off, to cop a buzz, cause you're out of smoke
3) you don't drop the soldering iron on your fresh finish when putting the guitar back together
 
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Before:

IMG_1742.jpg


IMG_1741.jpg


Primer:

IMG_1746.jpg


IMG_1745.jpg


Base:

IMG_1757.jpg


IMG_1756.jpg


Stripes:

IMG_1759.jpg


Finished product:

IMG_1774.jpg


My Nu-Vintage Strat:

IMG_2039.jpg


Don't tell me I'm in over my head.

Advice from a professional guitar painter would be that painting a guitar is best left to a professional
 
Don't tell me I'm in over my head.
I don't see professional quality work in those pictures. Maybe the pictures aren't that great.

I would just recommend that you should defer to the advice of someone who actually performs this craft day-in, day-out, for a living, and increase your knowledge as a hobbyist, rather than passing yourself off as any kind of expert.
 
I never claimed to be an expert. I've been painting for 3 years along tips from neighbors that are autobody refinishers and luthiers. Don't judge me because I'm young. Keep in mind I did that paintjob when I was first starting, and I've gained a lot of knowledge since. There are multiple ways to get a good finished product. Don't assume mine is wrong. Try it for yourself.
 
...but that's not to say that there's only one way to skin a cat.

I refinished an old Fender Mustang once upon a time and was very pleased at how it turned out. I would never compare it to a professional finish, though, but it served my purposes and cost a total of something like $20 in paint and sandpaper.

I'd pay attention to the stuff about the nitro though - although Jimi seems to know how to handle it. :)
 
Oops, you beat me with your post.

I agree, there is more than one way to get a decent result, and the most important thing is that you are pleased with it.

What I get from reading advice from Muttley and Light is the necessity to educate oneself on the process before jumping in.
 
I don't see professional quality work in those pictures. Maybe the pictures aren't that great.

I would just recommend that you should defer to the advice of someone who actually performs this craft day-in, day-out, for a living, and increase your knowledge as a hobbyist, rather than passing yourself off as any kind of expert.

I think the pictures are OK...the guitar just needs some clear coating....and...alot of block sanding, polishing, and buffing.

Put some elbow grease on that sucka!
 
It had a nice gloss, it's hard to tell because of the lighting.

Guys, don't think I'm not willing to learn anything. In fact, I know nothing about nitro, I'd love to learn about that.

I just don't want to be made up to look like I'm talking out of my ass. I'm always up for learning, but I deffinately know more than you think I do.
 
Oops, you beat me with your post.

I agree, there is more than one way to get a decent result, and the most important thing is that you are pleased with it.

What I get from reading advice from Muttley and Light is the necessity to educate oneself on the process before jumping in.

I think they give really good advice.
That being said, someone attempting a do it yourself nitro laquer paint job is usually not going to have a professional vetilated paint booth, professional spray guns, an air compressor, bake lites, ect...

They usually have a garage or shop building to paint it at best.
I have painted a Camaro in a friend of mines back yard....using 4 shop fans blowing bugs and dust away from the car in 4 different directions. It was a bitch of a job but turned out beautiful.
If one is willing to color sand their paint job to perfection....it will look professional. If they are not willing to invest the elbow grease into the cutting and buffing...it will not look professional no matter how good the equipment and enviornment it was painted in.

The aerosol cans work pretty well and a shed or garage will suffice for a painting area as long as you have proper ventilation...which could be an open door with a fan sucking the paint particles out.

Someone wanting to try their hand at a paint job dosen't want to hear "it's best left to a professional"...even if it is true...they want to hear "OK, here is what you need blah bla blah...here is what to be careful about blah blah blah...so on and so fourth"
 
It had a nice gloss, it's hard to tell because of the lighting.

Guys, don't think I'm not willing to learn anything. In fact, I know nothing about nitro, I'd love to learn about that.

I just don't want to be made up to look like I'm talking out of my ass. I'm always up for learning, but I deffinately know more than you think I do.

What type of paint did you use on the guitar in the pictures?
 
Someone wanting to try their hand at a paint job dosen't want to hear "it's best left to a professional"...even if it is true...they want to hear "OK, here is what you need blah bla blah...here is what to be careful about blah blah blah...so on and so fourth"
Agreed. :)
 
...but that's not to say that there's only one way to skin a cat.

I refinished an old Fender Mustang once upon a time and was very pleased at how it turned out. I would never compare it to a professional finish, though, but it served my purposes and cost a total of something like $20 in paint and sandpaper.

I'd pay attention to the stuff about the nitro though - although Jimi seems to know how to handle it. :)

I will be the first to say that nitro is dangerous. You can't inhale it and it is extreamly flamable.

I like to use it on guitars because it is soft and sands and buffs very well.

It is easy to repair (I repaired a nasty ding on the les paul I just bought...just dripped some fresh clear nitro laquer in it last night....then some more tonight...when I get it built up higher than the finish it's just sand and buff it...as good as new)

And it ages beautifully...gets thinner and yellows a bit.

Like I said, you have to be careful with the fumes and the flamability....also...make sure the temp and humidity are right for painting, and prep the body properly...but it's not rocket science.
 
Duplicolor rattle cans.

I think they are laquer (acrylic laquer).
I'm not 100% sure on that though.

I painted my strat with emoron poly several years ago. Getting that stuff off was alot harder than the entire process of finishing it in nitro laquer.
 
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